How much Dynamat do I need - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 29th, 2011, 09:45 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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How much Dynamat do I need

How much Dynamat does it take to fully line a 110, floors, doors, bulkhead, tub and bonnet? I have a friend that is getting my a steep discount but he needs a square footage number from me to go pick it up. I dont have my truck yet so I cant just go measure. I was hoping someone that has done this could help me out. Thanks
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  #2  
Old June 29th, 2011, 10:07 PM
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Get the stuff from Home Depot... Very similar but significantly cheaper.
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Old June 29th, 2011, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woldd90 View Post
Get the stuff from Home Depot... Very similar but significantly cheaper.
brand name?
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  #4  
Old June 29th, 2011, 10:17 PM
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Can't remember, but it is a roofing product.
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  #5  
Old June 29th, 2011, 10:23 PM
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http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...hlight=dynamat

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Quote:
I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #6  
Old June 29th, 2011, 10:27 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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Crap, I must be doing something wrong because i tried to search for it. I deserve all the smart ass" learn to search dummy" comments now
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  #7  
Old June 29th, 2011, 11:07 PM
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barry f
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Eastwood now makes an exact copy for much cheaper. No clue if home depot stuff is correct for auto use.
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  #8  
Old June 29th, 2011, 11:36 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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I checked out the bitchathane stuff but the guy at the hardware store said he had use both materials for soundproofing and the Dynamat does a much better job
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  #9  
Old June 30th, 2011, 09:04 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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Its called Peel & Seal. It's just like Dynamat only stickier. Dynamat you can re-position. This you can't so you better be sure you'll never going to want to take it off. Other than that it works the same. It's butylvinyl with aluminum backing just like Dynamat I believe.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hillstrubl
brand name?
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  #10  
Old June 30th, 2011, 09:39 AM
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My preference is neither dynamat nor any of that thin roofing stuff. The dynamat is overpriced and the roofing stuff is messy. Either way, you can't remove it easily when you don't want it anymore.

What I have found works best is the 1" thick closed-cell urethane soundproofing foam from McMaster. It's compressible, easy to cut, and comes in 54" wide rolls by the foot, and is available with or without adhesive. They even have versions with fiberglass reinforced foil.

Either way, the stuff really absorbs sound.
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  #11  
Old June 30th, 2011, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
It's just like Dynamat only stickier. Dynamat you can re-position. This you can't so you better be sure you'll never going to want to take it off
I am trying to remove dynamat from my seatbox and it does not want to come off is there a trick to getting getting dynamat to come off?
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  #12  
Old June 30th, 2011, 11:19 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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I don't know of any tricks. Having tried the roofing stuff I'd steer clear of it.
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  #13  
Old June 30th, 2011, 02:34 PM
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Tony Brooks
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I used a 6"x6" (or was it 8"x 8" -- either way, small) square of dynamat in the door of the 110 and just that small bit made a huge difference. My point is that you may be able to get away without completely lining 100% of the truck.
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  #14  
Old June 30th, 2011, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Ed any pics of the McMaster stuff installed?
-Jeff
Hey Jeff,

Not on a Defender, but I used the stuff extensively in my 07 Crossfire.

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/engine-exhaust/22389-hood-liner-rivets-didnt-come-hood-liner-where-get.html

I also created a soundproof board that goes into the trunk area under the carpet. I placed 1" of foam on both sides of 1/8" particleboard, cut to fit right inside the "tray" in the trunk of the crossfire. Cuts down on rear tire hum and road noise significantly.

I hate to say that "dynamat is a joke" because it might work for some people in certain applications, but I haven't been impressed by it.

I understand that the Noise Reduction Coefficient is kind of subjective...I mean, how controlled are their tests exactly. But Dynamat Extreme is supposed to 0.25 vs an NRC of 0.75 for the McMaster foam. It's really no contest.
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  #15  
Old June 30th, 2011, 02:48 PM
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Dry ice removes dynamat and other products with a steel scraper. It just chips off
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  #16  
Old June 30th, 2011, 02:50 PM
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Frank
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Jason,
Know you are asking how much material is needed, but this site has a lot of useful information : http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

Hope it helps.
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  #17  
Old June 30th, 2011, 06:03 PM
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Remember, Dynamat is not soley an acoustic product. It also has thermal qualities and really shouldn't be compared to products made exclusively to eliminate/reduce sound transmission.
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  #18  
Old June 30th, 2011, 09:58 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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Thanks for all the input I think I will do the floor, bulkhead and trany tunnel with Dynamat for the sound and heat and look at some other stuff for the doors and roof
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  #19  
Old July 1st, 2011, 08:51 AM
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One advantage to using Dynamat on the doors is that it really adds some stiffness or mass to the aluminum skin. Another is that because it is similar to some roofing/flashing products, I feel more comfortable with the inevitable water leaks.
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  #20  
Old July 6th, 2011, 12:21 AM
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Trenton Smith
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Did the doors (3), foot wells (x2) and tub (x2) of a D90SW with 80SQF. I used damplifier which is generic dynamat, the stuff meant for houses doesn't hold and tend to outgas. And as the previous post states it the benefits are more than sound reduction.
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