How Many Gallons of Paint Needed for 110? - Defender Source
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Old April 10th, 2011, 11:21 AM
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How Many Gallons of Paint Needed for 110?

Hi everyone,

I finally got around to sanding down the 110 in prep for paint. Can anyone tell me how much paint I should get? I am painting the lower half inside and out only, leaving the removal top the original almond color. And should I be sanding it after the primer too? Thanks
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  #2  
Old April 10th, 2011, 11:40 AM
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Three coats of urethane? One gallon plus reducer ought to be plenty, I would think. At least that's the plan for mine, according to my paint guy.

Keeping the original color or what?
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Old April 10th, 2011, 12:45 PM
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Yeah trident green. Three coats? Really? I have no idea, its my first time. Thinking of using single stage urethane. Are you using self etching primer? I know we are supposed to use it on bare aluminum but my truck already has paint on it, I am just roughing it up with 400 grit.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 01:17 PM
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I did most of the prep, but am having a shop spray it. While I was keen on trying my hand at painting, my wife was less excited about a garage-based paint booth. Given her patience with the balance of the project it was a no-brainer decision to have someone else spray it.

My paint guy strongly recommended PPG concept, three coats. I have a few bare aluminum panels getting etch primer and then all of it gets a coat of sealer followed by three of color.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 03:21 PM
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if you aren't down to bare metal I would use epoxy primer not self etching. Self etching is to create a chemical bond with the bare aluminum- if its not bare kind of pointless.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 05:05 PM
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Thanks guys,

I had a painter lined up but he flaked on me. He even came out to look at the truck to see what he was dealing with. Gave me a quote, told me to call him in a week to get a contract written up. Now I can't even get in touch with him. Tried calling multiple times, no answer. That was before Christmas and my truck has been sitting there ever since. I even stripped everything for him and most of the truck has already been rubbed with 400 grit. All he has to do is mask and paint. I'm just fed up and will be doing this myself.

Epoxy primer? Is that the same thing as sealer?

PPG concept? I was going to order from these guys since they have the correct color code. But if you look on the left hand side under paint type, they only have:

Paint Codes

acrylic enamel
acrylic urethane
acrylic lacquer
urethane basecoat

Is PPG Concept one of these? Thanks
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Old April 10th, 2011, 05:23 PM
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This is where I am at right now, as of yesterday as I am rubbing the rear tub down some more:
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Old April 10th, 2011, 05:29 PM
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Glad to hear you are keeping it the original color. You should add the "County" and stripes too.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by specops1526 View Post
Glad to hear you are keeping it the original color. You should add the "County" and stripes too.

Yeah I really want to but can't find the replacement vinyl anywhere. I see either one side only or it's the wrong color. Can't find a complete set. I am thinking about having a vinyl shop make up a set but I am afraid to find out the price involved.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 09:54 PM
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Concept is a PPG brand, and is an acrylic (?) urethane. Why not take the paint code to your local paint place and get it mixed locally; PPG, Dupont, or whatever.
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Old April 10th, 2011, 10:35 PM
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I used PPG Concept on my truck and only used 2 quarts for the whole truck, including stuff I had to do over. I only did two coats though. I had it mixed locally and it was much cheaper than that website, about $150 for a quart including reducer and hardener.
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Old April 11th, 2011, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Tdi View Post
if you aren't down to bare metal I would use epoxy primer not self etching. Self etching is to create a chemical bond with the bare aluminum- if its not bare kind of pointless.
And much more expensive.

------ Follow up post added April 11th, 2011 07:39 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Yeah I really want to but can't find the replacement vinyl anywhere. I see either one side only or it's the wrong color. Can't find a complete set. I am thinking about having a vinyl shop make up a set but I am afraid to find out the price involved.
Craddock's in the UK stocks many of the body tapes.
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Old April 11th, 2011, 03:42 PM
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2 quarts? Perfect. I'll check locally.

I've seen Craddocks and the last time I placed an order with them they didn't have complete sets. I'll check again. Thanks.

Do you guys go over the primer with 400 grit before painting or should I leave the primer alone and just spray on the paint?
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  #14  
Old April 12th, 2011, 03:04 AM
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I use 120 to key the primer or old paint.
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[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
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This is straight out of the Manual for Build Builders.
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  #15  
Old April 12th, 2011, 07:32 AM
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With urethane I use 400 or 600 grit, wet sand. Otherwise scratches show through. It's all about the prep. Its been my experiance that urethane, when mixed right, goes on really well - even with a standard spray gun.
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Old April 12th, 2011, 07:36 AM
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Spray any bare areas with self etching primer.
Then I would use a primer surfacer on the rest of the panel(s). The primer surfacer will build and fill in any deep scratches left from sanding. I always use a spray can of flat black after the gray primer surfacer and just "dust" over the whole job. Once everything is dry, you can either wet or dry sand with 400 grit on a BLOCK. As you are sanding, wipe the area to ensure that the black spots from the spray can progressively disappear. This helps make sure that your paint job will not be "waiving at people" as you drive it down the street.
Sanding the primer surfacer will leave a LOT of dust so make sure the walls and floor are cleaned prior to laying color and I would recommend keeping them wet throughout the paint process (this will keep overspray to a minimum).

Now for the next options:

-Single stage paint: Recommend 3 coats (allow to flash inbetween). A full color change can take up to 3 Qts to a gallon. PPG and Dupont offer some pretty good products. If you are going to beat up your vehicle, you could use single stage IMRON (Dupont). That stuff is nasty and will take some years off your life if you breathe it in, but its very tough. Its used on airplanes and is very resistant to the elements, temperature changes, and chipping.

-Base coat/Clear coat: (more expensive) 2 to 3 coats of base color followed by 2 to 3 coats of clear (3 Qts of base and about the same of clear) Dupont/PPG are probably your better options, being high quality and very durable. A little scuffing with a red scotchbrite scuff pad may be needed to remove dirt from the base coats (don`t do this on the clear coat!).

Once the finish has dried overnight (or baked, if you have an expensive paintbooth), you will likely have a few dirt spots in the finish.
Use 1500 grit with a block and WET sand the area lightly. Wipe dry and check often, until the spot is smooth. The area will appear dull. You`ll need to apply rubbing compound and use an electric buffer to bring it back to a normal shine, followed with a finishing compound. move back and forth on the area to avoid overheating and burning through your paint.
Don`t ever get in a rush prepping the panels. Thats key to ending up with a beautiful paintjob. If this is your first job, this sould give you something to start with, but I would recommend practicing on something else that your Land Rover (or maybe practice under the floor panels...).
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Old April 12th, 2011, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francois View Post
.....I always use a spray can of flat black after the gray primer surfacer and just "dust" over the whole job. Once everything is dry, you can either wet or dry sand with 400 grit on a BLOCK. As you are sanding, wipe the area to ensure that the black spots from the spray can progressively disappear.
Thanks for the info. This is my first time painting so sorry for all the questions. Am I supposed to sand all the black off? What's the purpose of the black?
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Old April 12th, 2011, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Thanks for the info. This is my first time painting so sorry for all the questions. Am I supposed to sand all the black off? What's the purpose of the black?
Primer surfacer builds as you spray multiple layers to allow you to end up with the smoothest possible surface for your final coats of color and clear.
If you apply that primer without following up with proper sanding, you will still be able to see any scratches or blemishes left from bodywork or rough grit sanding, even after you apply the clearcoat, or single stage paint.
This is why you must BLOCK sand the primer with 400 Grit (dry or wet), in order to eliminate those deeper scratches from your bodywork. It will keep them from still being visible once the vehicle is completely painted.
The flat black trick is not required but provides a great visual help for beginner and experienced painters alike. How do you know when you have sanded the primer enough so that its ready for topcoat? How do you know not to sand too much? Dusting the primed panels with a spray can leaves a bunch of small black dots on the surface. As you start sanding with a block and 400 grit, wipe regularly and check your work. The black dots will sand away and leave you with a smooth surface, ready to be painted. You will be able to spot any low or high areas right away, and the block sanding will ensure that the finish is as flat as possible (this will help avoiding a paint finish which waves back at you when you look at it).
I hope this clarifies it a bit.
Cheers,
Francois.
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Old April 12th, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Forrest,

You should also check the tech sheets for the products you are planning to use as they will cover a bunch of info you will want and need.

You might want to consider a gallon, it will only be a little more than 2 QTs and you will have a little left over for future touchup / changes / repairs.

Since this is your first time you might find that you use more than expected and it might be nice to have that extra on hand
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Old April 12th, 2011, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDSUX View Post
Thanks for the info. This is my first time painting so sorry for all the questions. Am I supposed to sand all the black off? What's the purpose of the black?
It's a guide coat so you can tell when you have finished the surface perfectly. Which will never happen on the wavy panels of a Land Rover. It's a Land Rover -- it's never going to look like a show car, and you are going to go drive it through brush, mud, rocks, etc. At least you should. So perfect paint is a waste of time and money.
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[appropriated from Ren Ching] Most faults can usually be traced to the badge on the grill.
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