How many bleeder valves? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 8th, 2008, 09:19 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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How many bleeder valves?

I know I can look but my d-90 is at home and this on my mind now, how many bleeder valves are on each caliper? One or two?
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  #2  
Old October 8th, 2008, 03:49 PM
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Bill Campbell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868
I know I can look but my d-90 is at home and this on my mind now, how many bleeder valves are on each caliper? One or two?
Pretty sure it is just one per caliper.

B
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  #3  
Old October 8th, 2008, 06:30 PM
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Yep !

Just one.

Pat
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  #4  
Old October 9th, 2008, 10:22 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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Darn, I can't get my brakes the way I want them. Once the same thing happened on my race car and I simply never noticed there was a bleeder valve on the inside of the caliper as well. I was hoping it was the same situation... Do they make after market calipers for land rovers? I checked the normal places, brembo, stoptech etc. and nobody makes stuff for our cars. Has anyone ever fitted range rover sport brakes onto a defender or something like that?
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  #5  
Old October 9th, 2008, 07:58 PM
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Mark M
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What condition are you trying to overcome?
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  #6  
Old October 10th, 2008, 12:29 AM
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Like Oxcart was asking, what seems to be the problem?

The brakes on these things are absurdly over-powerful, and is the one area I've never seen a complaint about performance that didn't involve a problem.
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  #7  
Old October 10th, 2008, 09:35 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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I have two problems.

First the pedal travel is far too long. It's going to the floor almost. Second, low RPMS (especially offroad) the pedal needs to be pumped up to pressure. Just recentyl, My clutch has started to need pumping after it's been sitting.

First issue is indicative of air in the lines. Second Issue seems like a vaccum leak. I checked the line from the booster and it seems fine. The problem is made worse off-road so I thought maybe a hub nut was loose and was wiggling the pads apart, just redid the bearings and the problem is still there. I've been chasing this for over a year now. It no longer brakes in a straight line, and it getting a little scary to drive. I'll get a bleeder and replace the fluid with superblue and do a good long bleed and that should harden up the pedal but the pumping issue is a problem.
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Old October 10th, 2008, 11:31 AM
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vacuum leak would make the pedal harder to press, not softer. Which side does it pull to when braking? I'd check the OTHER side from that. Are you losing fluid at all?

Maybe have a shop do a full flush and pressure-bleed the system might help?

Also, just as a wild idea, you do have the vented rotors, and not the solid ones? Correct?

-Hans
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  #9  
Old October 10th, 2008, 11:38 AM
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Bad master cylinder.
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  #10  
Old October 10th, 2008, 12:46 PM
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Todd Kendrick
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I have had the same problem for over a year. Brakes pedals wants to go to the bottom off road; pump a time or two and it is fine. On road seems OK pedal stays at the top. I have adjusted the bearings numerous times w/ no improvement. I noticed this started after replacing the master cylinder w/ a genuine one so maybe Ron you are on to something. Have you had this issue before? How to check the master cylinder? Sorry we missed each other in Moab; saw your truck but you were not around...........
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  #11  
Old October 10th, 2008, 01:00 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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My fault, I meant a leak in the line somewhere, not a vaccum leak. I am not loosing break fluid, but there is a seperate resevoir for the clutch right? D-90s don't share brake fluid btw. the brakes and the clutch do they?

Is it difficult to change a master cylinder? Never opened one up before
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  #12  
Old October 10th, 2008, 01:24 PM
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Seperate cluch res intergal to the clutch MC does not share with brakes. Change of a D90 MC is super easy with two bolt that is all that is holding it on, make sure to bench bleed it before install. I recommend castrol GTLMA as the only fluid to use.

If it is only happening offroad, tighten your wheel bearings.
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  #13  
Old October 10th, 2008, 01:58 PM
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Ok crazy question but why tighten the wheel bearings?
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  #14  
Old October 10th, 2008, 03:29 PM
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If they are loose then the josting off-road would cause the hub to rock back and forth. Since the rotor is attached to the hub it too would rock back and forth pushing the pads apart which is why you would have to pump the pedal to get brakes. I have already checked this on my truck and it's not the issue. I might try the MC but I have no idea what "bench bleeding" is
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Old October 10th, 2008, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868
If they are loose then the josting off-road would cause the hub to rock back and forth. Since the rotor is attached to the hub it too would rock back and forth pushing the pads apart which is why you would have to pump the pedal to get brakes. I have already checked this on my truck and it's not the issue. I might try the MC but I have no idea what "bench bleeding" is
Bench bleeding is pre-bleeding the new master cylinder before installing it into the truck. Necessary step on any car actually.

-Hans
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  #16  
Old October 10th, 2008, 04:03 PM
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Bill Campbell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868
If they are loose then the josting off-road would cause the hub to rock back and forth. Since the rotor is attached to the hub it too would rock back and forth pushing the pads apart which is why you would have to pump the pedal to get brakes. I have already checked this on my truck and it's not the issue. I might try the MC but I have no idea what "bench bleeding" is
Oh ok. Could warped rotors or warped wheels cause the same problem?

B
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  #17  
Old October 10th, 2008, 04:16 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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You could never warp a rotor to the point where it was pushing your pads apart. Warped rotors will really only screw you when you press the pads against the surface sending shudders throughout the car.
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