How do You Remove the Front Internal Roll Bar Brackets? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 22nd, 2008, 08:43 PM
R. Kurk
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Richard Kurk
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How do You Remove the Front Internal Roll Bar Brackets?

The front internal roll bar components (“Bracket Wing RH” and “Bracket Wing LH”) that are located behind the right and left front wing panel on my 1993 NAS 110 are rusted and need to be remove and re-finished. What is the easiest and simplest way to gain access to these and remove them?



Thanks.
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  #2  
Old June 22nd, 2008, 10:27 PM
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Remove the fender skins. When you reinstall the repainted brakets, spray Waxoyl 120-4 cavity wax onto the mating surfaces to prevent rust.


Cheers...
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  #3  
Old June 22nd, 2008, 10:40 PM
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You have to remove the brackets before you can remove the skins, and its not necessary anyway. Just take off the wheel arches, stack up several socket extensions, and get at the bolts that way.
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  #4  
Old June 23rd, 2008, 01:34 PM
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Mike and Jim,

Thanks for the information. I was looking for the easiest approach as I am not motivated to do a lot of extra dismantling if not needed on this mini-project. Removing the eyebrows looked like a possible approach and I was not sure of the bolts (three ?) that face the firewall. I will give this a try this coming weekend.

Again, Thanks.
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Old June 23rd, 2008, 01:42 PM
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Removing the eyebrows is really the only approach, and the bolts pinch the fender between the supports and the firewall. There are 4 bolts - here is a pick of a stripped firewall so you can get an idea of placement.
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Old June 23rd, 2008, 02:00 PM
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Richard Kurk
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Jim, the picture helps A LOT.

There was an earlier posting about two weeks ago regarding removing the galvanized inner wheel arch. If the eyebrow comes off and I take off the misc. bolts holding the arch in place can it be removed relatively easily therefore gaining a bit more work room to get to the roll bar brackets? Visually it looks like the shock tower is in the way(?).

Rich K.
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Old June 23rd, 2008, 03:00 PM
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You pretty much have to pull the fender and inner fender well as one piece, and to do that, the roll cage brace has to come out. Dont worry about the inner fender well.

When you pull off the plastic eyebrow (which incidentally, you do by pushing out the plastic rods in the center of the fastener - collect the rods for re-use) you open up a gap between the outer fender and the galvanized inner fender, its maybe 3-4 inches. From there, you can insert a socket with long extensions from the wheel well to get the bolts out of the firewall.

The shock tower is definitely not in the way - I am describing this to your understanding?
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  #8  
Old June 23rd, 2008, 03:29 PM
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Richard Kurk
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It is very clear. I sort-of-guessed that removing the eyebrow might leave just enough room to reach the bracket, but a confirmation/first hand experience helps reduce the anxiety of proceeding in the unknown (and the my time allowance for the work going south).

Again, thanks for the help and the picture.
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  #9  
Old June 23rd, 2008, 06:08 PM
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Hi Richard,

Just a quick note of caution: be sure to securely hold the backet when removing it. It has a much greater mass (heavier) than the aluminum skin and if it drops against the skin it will ding it from the inside out. You might run a line of blue masking tape along the bracket to the bulhead so that it does not fall or shift until you are ready to remove it.
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Old June 24th, 2008, 10:11 AM
R. Kurk
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Len, good suggestion. I have found out the hard way that the aluminum skin "invites" dings and dimples. I will add some protection while I am working on the brackets. Again, thanks.
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