Hot dip galvanizing - surface prep? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 11th, 2013, 03:59 PM
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Hot dip galvanizing - surface prep?

When I had my bulkhead galvanized, I did not remove paint or rust and it came out fine.

When I talk to galvanizers, I get two stories:

1. The line manager who is actually at the plant doing the galvanizing says, "grease, paint, oil, dirt, old galv, rust, doesn't matter - we burn it off or the acid gets it and we WILL cover it with zinc".
2. The corporate office says, "part must be clean"

Who is correct?

For all of you who have had parts galvanized, did you have success with parts that had paint / rust on them? By success, I mean - did the parts get zinc on them - regardless of how the zinc looked?

I don't care about surface finish. My steel parts can be pock marked and ugly, but as long as they don't rust, I'm happy.
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  #2  
Old January 11th, 2013, 04:08 PM
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I never found anyone to take them with paint/rust still on it.
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Old January 11th, 2013, 04:09 PM
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My roof rack had primer and multiple coats of paint on it. It came out fine. They did dip it in the acid
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  #4  
Old January 11th, 2013, 04:15 PM
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Basically the acid they use is very expensive, so the guy on the shop floor doesnt care if it get fouled with paint and adhesives and needs to be replaced but the management and corporate office understands that is a huge expense and would prefer you strip it first.

The acid will eat anything I imagine but again for cost effectiveness they prefer you remove as much of the surface materials as possible
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Old January 11th, 2013, 04:21 PM
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This is what I am thinking. The paint on a bulkhead, frame, or rack wouldn't put a dent in a 2000 gallon tank of acid.
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Old January 11th, 2013, 04:30 PM
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I had my parts either sandblasted or acid dipped prior to galv. The finish turned out well. I would not want my parts to go in a galv tank where they accept crap prep for the galv dip.
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Old January 11th, 2013, 04:31 PM
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Yeah I spoke with a foreman at a plant and he said the cost has gone up 500% in the last few years. Not surprising considering the government tariffs on hazmat chemicals.
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Old January 11th, 2013, 05:04 PM
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My bulkhead just came back from the sandblaster and it still had caulk all over. Using caulk remover and scraping the rest. Sucks.
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Old January 11th, 2013, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 61rover View Post
My bulkhead just came back from the sandblaster and it still had caulk all over. Using caulk remover and scraping the rest. Sucks.
Do what I did - burn it off. A mapp gas or propane torch will make very quick work of the caulk. The caulk burns to a crisp and flakes off. It saved me a lot of time.
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Old January 11th, 2013, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jtomchik View Post
Basically the acid they use is very expensive, so the guy on the shop floor doesnt care if it get fouled with paint and adhesives and needs to be replaced but the management and corporate office understands that is a huge expense and would prefer you strip it first.

The acid will eat anything I imagine but again for cost effectiveness they prefer you remove as much of the surface materials as possible

This is very much the case. In fact, where I went (and brought Ed's) they charges a little bit more if they needed to "burn" off paint and rust. The guy said its bc they have to replace the acid more often when the metal goes in isn't clean.

For the 10 cents more a lb or whatever it was, i was perfectly fine with it
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Old January 11th, 2013, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bossman429 View Post
This is very much the case. In fact, where I went (and brought Ed's) they charges a little bit more if they needed to "burn" off paint and rust. The guy said its bc they have to replace the acid more often when the metal goes in isn't clean.

For the 10 cents more a lb or whatever it was, i was perfectly fine with it
The guys at the Ashville, VA plant told me the same thing when I took in my frame and bulkhead.
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Old January 15th, 2013, 06:39 AM
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It's also a matter of the pollution emitted when they "burn off". Technically they are not supposed to burn but most will. The guys I use will do it but only at night lol. Anyway......sandblasting IMO is not a great prep if you like a smoother and actually thinnner coating. Tends to help create that good old fence post look. Chemical stripping (more expensive) does a better prep job nif you cant get the galvanizer to burn for you.
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Old January 15th, 2013, 07:07 AM
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I'm prepairing my front bumper for galvanizing and my preparation is chemical stripping of old paint, then sanding, sanding, and more sanding.
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Old January 15th, 2013, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MC22958 View Post
The guys at the Ashville, VA plant told me the same thing when I took in my frame and bulkhead.

The place in Ashland will burn paint off ? If so the just became my target galvanizer
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Old January 15th, 2013, 10:03 AM
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The place I went to in NJ had a separate vat for burning paint off
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Old January 15th, 2013, 07:03 PM
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When I got parts for my 110 galvanized they told me not to bother grit blasting the bulkhead because there would still be paint inside they would need to "burn off" and I'd have wasted my money at the shot blaster.
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