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  #1  
Old October 23rd, 2004, 10:30 PM
joeoftherock
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Joe Venturella
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Question hood release

I have a small problem with the hood release from inside.
Cant get it to move. I know, a little more than a small problem, but luckily the truck runs great so i dont need to get in there too often. But, I am coming up for inspection and need to get in there.

I could get in there a couple weeks ago, but the last couple of times i tried, there was no moving it.
I bought a replacement for the whole system, from AB, but have not had the chance to see how it goes in.

What I am really looking for is anyone who has had this problem and can give me some insight on how tyo make the switch, i mean obviously without being able to get the hood open.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Joe V
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  #2  
Old October 23rd, 2004, 11:02 PM
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Mike Hansen
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PULL LIKE HELL!!!!!!....you have nothing to loose.

You can take the grill off then move the latch with a screw driver to get it open and replace the cable.

Good Luck

MH
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  #3  
Old October 23rd, 2004, 11:11 PM
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put some kinda "lube" on it, I think the aerosol Tri-flow would do wonders, you might also try your local "adult store" for some aerosol astro glide, or just spit on it.
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  #4  
Old October 23rd, 2004, 11:39 PM
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Thomas
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once you get it open, disconnect the O.E.M.P.O.S. and install some hood pins from www.wildhorses4x4.com
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  #5  
Old October 24th, 2004, 03:03 AM
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Mike has the right idea, "pull like hell". Mine had the same problem, it is a friction thing somewhere along the cable. My T handle finally broke and I had the whole thing replaced... To this day though, I still wonder if it will work every time I pull it. British technology
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  #6  
Old October 24th, 2004, 05:32 AM
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You don't actually need to "pull like hell" at all. Just go to the front of the truck, poke your finger through the grille, located the cable that connects to the hood latch, hook your finger around it and pull it from there. It will open right up. So much for theft prevention.
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  #7  
Old October 24th, 2004, 08:57 AM
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Jim Cheney
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Once the hood is open, pull the crappy t-handle release out.

Call George at RDS and ask him for a "hood release that doesnt suck."

If your truck doesn have AC, it fits easily because the bracket is angled to fit on the side of the bulkhead tunnel. If you truck does have AC, you have to flatten out the mounting bracket and mount to the face of the bulkhead tunnel.

Check out the attached pic, you can see that the release is a little lever. It is so much better its not funny.
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  #8  
Old October 24th, 2004, 01:34 PM
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Read Kerlin
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Hood Pins:
http://www.pangaea-expeditions.com/p...ear/index.html
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  #9  
Old October 24th, 2004, 08:12 PM
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mine stuck,i pulled like hell it opened,it hangs down to the floor now but still opens every time now,just looks untidy
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  #10  
Old October 24th, 2004, 09:39 PM
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DO NOT PULL LIKE HELL.
I did that and snapped the cable.
Reach in like Scott said, then replace handle.
Oh, and I did NOT know what I was doing and ended up $130 to the mechanic.
I had NO idea where all the little pieces went.
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  #11  
Old October 25th, 2004, 12:11 AM
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Doug Walker
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If the 90s are like the 110s, there is a clip that holds the outer sleeve of the cable in position just beyond the release. My cable was slipping in the clip, and that's why it would 'get long' or dangle on the floor. I bought the smallest hose clamp I could find, secured it around the cable along with a tiny slice of hard rubber matting so the clamp would tighten sufficiently, and tightened this just beyond the clip to stop the cable from being able to pull through the clip any more. Working so far....

DW
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  #12  
Old October 25th, 2004, 09:07 AM
joeoftherock
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Joe Venturella
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Thanks

Thanks guys,
I am going to try and get this thing fixed tonight. The heater blower fan is making some pretty outrageous noise right now, dont know where that came from, but i need to get in there and get a good look at that before the impending winter.

Thank again, and I do want to get some hood pins, but the cost and the time are not there for me right now.
I think that is a next year project

Joe V
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  #13  
Old May 8th, 2007, 02:43 AM
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Early 110 Latch....

Is this the part?

LATCH ASSM - BONNET

SKU:RNB814
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-1...sm-bonnet.aspx
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  #14  
Old May 12th, 2007, 01:14 PM
joeoftherock
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Joe Venturella
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That is not the part that I replaced, because my problem was with the cable going into the cab. That is the correct assambly, I think, but I did bot have to do that much.
I think all of these other guys are a lot more knowledgable than me, so maybe they could help you more than me with the problem.
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  #15  
Old May 13th, 2007, 12:53 AM
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Thanks for the pictures! What are you moding exactly and why are you using the series over the 110?

Thanks!
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  #16  
Old January 4th, 2012, 11:26 AM
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James Pierce Jr.
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Series III hood latch

Did you guys ever do this? Just wondering if it works the the NAS D90 slam panel and how much modification is required if any.

Thanks!
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  #17  
Old January 4th, 2012, 11:37 AM
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Slam panels are different. Hoods themselves are actually different too. You need to cut a hole in the early slam panel for the NAS back up latch to make this all work.

Too cold to do now, but I have the parts for mine.
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  #18  
Old December 15th, 2012, 02:16 AM
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Rob
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Has anyone actually done this ?

It doesn't look like a simple mod.


Thanks.
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  #19  
Old December 15th, 2012, 05:35 AM
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Chris
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When my build gets to the stage that it needs the hood latch sorted I 'm going to use this rather than the cable system.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/13004_10X_PG.htm
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  #20  
Old December 15th, 2012, 06:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
When my build gets to the stage that it needs the hood latch sorted I 'm going to use this rather than the cable system.
http://www.quadratec.com/products/13004_10X_PG.htm

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