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  #1  
Old November 11th, 2004, 08:48 PM
UKlandyandy
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Andy
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Home design 3 link system

Hi,

I'm building my own 3 link as ee don't have any suppliers for multilink systems like you guys do. So, I'm designing all the components myself apart from the radius arms & centre link.

Another option is to use crawler rod ends (see these http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/wjcomponents.html ) on and a solid link bar, combined they'd give 60 degrees of axle twist.

Do you think that this would be OK and would they be strong enough for the job ?

Cheers for the help,

Andy
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  #2  
Old November 11th, 2004, 09:15 PM
redrover

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47.5cm mate plus or minus for diff angle
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  #3  
Old November 12th, 2004, 04:48 AM
UKlandyandy
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Thanks for that Red, could I trouble you for a few more measurements please. What are the following dimensions :

1. Inside width of mounting bracket on X-member where the 3rd link fits in
2. As 1 but on the axle bar (if not the same)
3. Length of outside radius arms from the centre of the axle end bolt to the face of the large washer on the chassis end
4. Diameter of the radius arms

How do you adjust the 3rd link to change the castor angle ?

Cheers,
Andy
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  #4  
Old November 12th, 2004, 08:58 AM
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you change the angle by the 3rd link which JP told you is 47.5cm long. It is actually threaded so you can screw it in or out to adjust the angle of your driveline.
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  #5  
Old November 12th, 2004, 09:33 AM
UKlandyandy
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Andy
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Hi Randy,

Thanks for that. Think I really need to get hold of one now to complete the mounting bracket design. Picking up from other threads, do the systems affect roll as much as people suggest, do I need to be looking at fitting an anti-roll (sway) bar at the front ?

If anyone could help with forwarding a package to the UK, I'd be willing to do the same for parts sourced here.

Cheers,
Andy
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  #6  
Old November 12th, 2004, 01:42 PM
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Peter Miller
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Just curious, but if you are going to be building this mainly from stratch, why not ditch SGs design and come up with your own 3 link? Fab up a track bar with some heim joints and some simple radius arms and you should be able to out travel a 14" shock with no trouble.
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  #7  
Old November 13th, 2004, 03:25 PM
UKlandyandy
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Hi Peter & all,

The reason I'm working on this design is that I know it will basically work. There isn't any one here with a truck that's already got a system installed, so I need to be quite confident that whatever I build will perform first time. The additional articulation I'm looking for is to match the rear setup I already have and I don't do any rock crawling here either.... cause there ain't no trails to go on. Most of my time off road will be in mud up to the bottom of the doors and over heavily rutted ground or through peat bogs in Wales.

I have been looking at the 'Johnny Joints' on the Currie website for the 3rd link. The 2" uses a 7/16" bolt and the 2.5" uses 9/16" bolt, both have studs welded on so I can use a solid bar for the link. Would I be better using the 2" or 2.5" ? If I fit one end with a JJ and the other with a PU bush (to damp vibration), will the 30 degs of movement in the JJ be enough ?

Thanks for the help,
Andy
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  #8  
Old November 13th, 2004, 07:35 PM
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Peter Miller
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I would do a simple radius arm design as pictured (of course work out the angles) and a track rod, but I can understand wanting something that someone else has done. Yes, 30* of movement, is enough, so just run a polybush on the axle end. Also check out http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/home.php?cat=25 for lots of heims, jjs and other stuff.

If you want to get tricky download this 4 link calculator and come up with a good setup http://home.earthlink.net/~triaged/...ulatorV2.0a.zip.
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  #9  
Old November 13th, 2004, 08:50 PM
UKlandyandy
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Hi,

The link to the calculator doesn't seem to work, do you have another ?

As I already have QT Services 3 degree castor corrected front radius arms (for 2" lift). I don't really need to make the 3rd link adjustable as I can measure all the bolt position dimensions in situ before I remove the radius arms. So weld on joints can be used to increase the strength of the 3rd link.

Looking at the Currie site, does the 2"... 2.5" etc refer to the outside diameter of the JJ ?

Cheers,
Andy
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  #10  
Old November 13th, 2004, 10:10 PM
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Sorry try this link http://home.earthlink.net/~triaged/F...latorV2.0b.zip
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  #11  
Old November 13th, 2004, 11:32 PM
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I am a little confused. I def see why someone would want a 3 link but if you have no rocks, what is the point? The travel does nothing for you in mud.
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  #12  
Old November 14th, 2004, 12:08 AM
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Christian Beck
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I took pictures and measurements of my 3 link while it was out of my D90 for a guy in the UK (Jamie Austin). He was building his own and wanted to copy it. I can send you the pictures on Monday as they are at my office. I think I have Jamie email also.

Christian
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  #13  
Old November 14th, 2004, 07:41 AM
UKlandyandy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
I am a little confused. I def see why someone would want a 3 link but if you have no rocks, what is the point? The travel does nothing for you in mud.
Hi, I agree but I'm looking to balance the axle articulation front/rear. Apart from that, the trucks a toy and you've got to have all the accessories for it.... thats what there for !!!

Peter, got the calculator, thanx.

Could someone please confirm how the JJ's are measured, is the 2" it's width overall or diameter ?

Cheers,
Andy
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  #14  
Old November 14th, 2004, 10:20 AM
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It refers to it's overall width.
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  #15  
Old November 15th, 2004, 11:36 PM
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You can not use your castor corrected radius arms with a three link. Maybe you need to see some pictures of a three link to understand how it works. The two outer links need to be mounted high to keep the axle from foldiing under like they did at the Twist off during their initial testing. And the center link has to be adjusteable to finetune the setup. Do some more homework. If you can not get pictures I will try to take some this weekend.

JP
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  #16  
Old November 16th, 2004, 07:47 AM
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Oh no Pendy? As you can see it the picture an arm like I showed can be used in conjunction with another link and a track rod to control axle wrap and any sort of axle steer. But again like I said, you would have to figure out the exact angles to use, but it is a very basic proven 3 link configuration. So did I miss something? Please school me then, as oppossed to just saying I'm wrong...
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  #17  
Old November 16th, 2004, 08:29 AM
UKlandyandy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
You can not use your castor corrected radius arms with a three link.
JP
Hi Jim,

I wasn't suggesting that I did, only that, since I already have 3 degree arms fitted to correct for my 2" lift, an adjustable 3rd link would not be required. I can measure all the critical dimensions off the existing setup and transfer to the new.

Cheers,
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  #18  
Old November 16th, 2004, 09:22 AM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudrover
Oh no Pendy? As you can see it the picture an arm like I showed can be used in conjunction with another link and a track rod to control axle wrap and any sort of axle steer. But again like I said, you would have to figure out the exact angles to use, but it is a very basic proven 3 link configuration. So did I miss something? Please school me then, as oppossed to just saying I'm wrong...
This is what the guys who used the hinged/pinned radius arms were after, which was a concept that came from the Bronco crowd. It had mixed reviews on a rover and clearly didn't add significant travel. So you don't get any axle wrap, seems like it would want pull if you jumped on the brakes hard, no?

Tis
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  #19  
Old November 16th, 2004, 10:26 AM
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Yes your right it is the same thing as a hinged radius arm. Tis, do you know of any threads that covered a hinged radius arm on a Rover? I ran one on my other bronco before selling it and it worked flawlessly on road while pinned, but still flexed like a slinky on the trails. As far as performance under hard braking, yes it does look like it would tend to want to shift a little, because it would be acting like an unpinned radius arm. However it doesn't seem to cause that much in the pictures or in cad renderings that i've tried to the point where the suspension is not a viable option. Am I missing something? There is no one single perfect suspension design. The suspension is sceeps on pirate4x4 for his dads bronco. I'm sure if you PMd him he could give you some real world answers. To me it would be perfect for the front of a land rover where you can't fit a triangulated 4 link. I plan on using this design on the front of my sisters disco once it gets retired from daily driver usage. So give me a year and I'll have a real world answer on how it works on a rover.
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  #20  
Old November 16th, 2004, 10:44 AM
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Yousef Hamzeh
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Before I bought my SG 3-link I had this in mind. Reuse the stock radios arms however, you need to cut off the front end of it, where it bolts to the front of the axle, so it only bolts on the behind the axle. All you need is a third link, which is easy, but before that you either get HD cross member or reinforce the stock unit somehow. On the axle above the third member you build a bracket and then attach the third link from there to the Xmember. So basically the outer links are below the third link. This should give you enough separation and not cause the axle to wrap. Never done it but I though it’s a cool idea with less $$.
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