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  #41  
Old November 20th, 2004, 02:41 PM
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Buckon37s
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"3 link system and has around 40" of wheel travel"


Man, thanks for the laugh
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  #42  
Old November 20th, 2004, 02:48 PM
UKlandyandy
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Andy
'86 exmil 90, 3.9efi auto
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
"3 link system and has around 40" of wheel travel"


Man, thanks for the laugh
And your point is ????

Thought about it..... and considered, to mount the hockey sticks above the axle you need to cut & weld new brackets on.

My 3 link you bolt on..... I get the cost down to say, under 500 quid.... I sell them as a kit.... no welding, you cut you existing radius arms down & use them... I make a few quid in the process.....

Now who's laughing..... me, all the way to the bank !!!!
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  #43  
Old November 20th, 2004, 03:14 PM
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Man if you don't get it, I can't help you. Now what is a quid, is that a pound? Euro??

btw: my suspension has 821.52 inches of wheel travel, and a toaster.
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  #44  
Old November 20th, 2004, 03:31 PM
UKlandyandy
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Andy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
Man if you don't get it, I can't help you. Now what is a quid, is that a pound? Euro??

btw: my suspension has 821.52 inches of wheel travel, and a toaster.
It's a .... and I have pity on your toaster.... LOL

Ok, sensible now... explain why putting the radius arms over the axle increases travel. Is it not the same as being under it ? in that the twisting forces applied to the bushes on the axle limit travel, be it mounted above or below.
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  #45  
Old November 21st, 2004, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKlandyandy
Ok, sensible now... explain why putting the radius arms over the axle increases travel. Is it not the same as being under it ? in that the twisting forces applied to the bushes on the axle limit travel, be it mounted above or below.
I think you missed this, I asked the same question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
The arm is mounted on top of the axle for no other reason than it helps with the clearance. You can run it below. The mount is very simple but the arm is simple too. Any decent fab guy could do it. It is cast so there is a small amount that goes into welding, but not much. Simple and cheap, now I have to get back to solving my intercooler crisis!
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  #46  
Old November 21st, 2004, 03:51 PM
UKlandyandy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hippert
I think you missed this, I asked the same question.
Hi Mike,

Saw that, but does it still not bind up on full travel ? or am I missing something here....
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  #47  
Old November 21st, 2004, 07:17 PM
redrover

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Andy does the tie rod clear the forward inside surface of your boxed steel tube on full steering choc? Looks good. The reason I say this is my SG is a rectangular box. I have never looked underneath to see how the tie rod travels when going from full lf to full right. But i have noticed a rub area. jp
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  #48  
Old November 22nd, 2004, 12:36 AM
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"Saw that, but does it still not bind up on full travel ? or am I missing something here...."

I get it. Your missing the modified radius arm and mounting. Thats what is unique, not mounting it over the axle.
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Made it further than half of the other guys, but the Hammers won.
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  #49  
Old November 22nd, 2004, 10:14 AM
UKlandyandy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckon37s
"Saw that, but does it still not bind up on full travel ? or am I missing something here...."

I get it. Your missing the modified radius arm and mounting. Thats what is unique, not mounting it over the axle.
Right... thought I was loosing it.... totally, what did you do to the arm & mounting ?
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  #50  
Old November 22nd, 2004, 11:29 AM
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Peter Miller
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKlandyandy
Right... thought I was loosing it.... totally, what did you do to the arm & mounting ?
What David did besides flipping the arm on top of the axle for clearence was to cut off the second (farthest out) bushing mount on the radius arm. Then he shortened the distance between the two bushing mounts and welded them up, and made a new bracket on the axle. This relieves a lot the binding issues with the suspension, and I'm assuming it causes little to no change in driveability (braking, axle steer). Just look at the pics he posted and compare the two arms.

This should be something cheap and easy to do. However, you couldn't get the clearance he got by mounting them on top of the axle, because the spring perches would be in the way.

Mike, about welding the arm. Yes it is easy to do, since the arm is cast you need to preheat the arm before you weld it up. Any decent fab shop can do this. Also it wouldn't hurt to plate it on both sides after you weld it up.
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If it looks like it works and it feels like it works...Then it works
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  #51  
Old November 22nd, 2004, 11:57 AM
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Cool, there is a local welder who does everything! He should be able to do this.
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  #52  
Old November 22nd, 2004, 02:27 PM
UKlandyandy
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I see (now).... didn't notice that.... Doh !!! just call me Homer..... makes perfect sense. Good idea and using the origional arms saves cost too. My only concern would be that all the stress is concentrated into the welded area and I agree that this should be plated both sides with say, 1/4" thick material to prevent a major failure.

I'll still persue the 3 link as I've already ordered the laser cut parts and I don't want to butcher my existing axle at this time, however, I can always try your way if it doesn't work out like I want it to. If people wanted to modify there axles in this way I'm sure QT Services would make some bespoke arms based on there ultra light ones if you didn't feel happy modifying the origional cast items.

Have attached a couple of pics of the radius arm plates that I've drawn up and will post some pics of the completed parts once I get them fabricated.

Thanks for the help so far.....
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  #53  
Old November 29th, 2004, 03:04 AM
UKlandyandy
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Hi,

Just to get things straight in my own mind. The more lift you have on your rig, the longer the third link needs to be to correct the castor angle.

Correct ?

Cheers,
Andy
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  #54  
Old November 29th, 2004, 07:27 AM
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Yes, the more you lift your truck up, the worse your castor, but don't forget you have to take into account pinion angle aswell.
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  #55  
Old November 29th, 2004, 07:36 AM
redrover

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Yep, you would need to extend center link to keep the u joint angle the same at each end and caster sim to stock. OR you could angle the pinion up and use a double cardan drive shaft. But this will deff screw the caster. JP
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  #56  
Old November 29th, 2004, 07:55 AM
UKlandyandy
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Thanks guys.

Was just making sure I'd got it straight in my head. I can sort the 3rd link now and make it adjustable by having the mounting on the x-member seperate and bolt on (heavy duty) thus allowing it to be shimmed to set the castor. Means I can use another modified radius arm to keep the costs down.

Will use a high yolk angle prop for the front with double cardon as well.

Cheers,
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  #57  
Old December 4th, 2004, 08:52 AM
UKlandyandy
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Hi Guys,


Have got the laser cut parts and tacked them all up now. Here are a couple of pics of the progress.

Cheers,
Andy
Attached Thumbnails
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  #58  
Old December 18th, 2004, 03:54 PM
UKlandyandy
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Latest pics.

Axle tube and x-member all completed. I'm just waiting for the new radius arms & 3rd link from dave at QT Services. They should be here very early in the new year.

Cheers,
Andy
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  #59  
Old December 18th, 2004, 06:23 PM
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Andy, looks good! What did you decide to use for your center link?

CB
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  #60  
Old December 19th, 2004, 09:42 AM
UKlandyandy
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Andy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troutrover
Andy, looks good! What did you decide to use for your center link?

CB
Hi,

I'm goign to use a shortened version of the outer radius arms. This will allow me to use off the shelf poly bushes and it keeps the design simple and easy to service in the field. I'm fairly confident that I won't suffer significant changes in castor due to the bushes compressing as when there tightened up there heavily compressed already.

Cheers,
Andy
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