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  #21  
Old January 9th, 2007, 11:51 AM
MonLand
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Loic Fabro
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Originally Posted by MonLand
Any update? Is the problem fixed? If yes, then what was it and what was the resolution?
I meant to say "rover4x4: Any Update?"! :-)
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  #22  
Old January 9th, 2007, 03:35 PM
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Jim C.
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So what is the procedure for adjustment of the crossed GM or Napa part?

TIA,

jC
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  #23  
Old January 9th, 2007, 05:20 PM
MonLand
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Loic Fabro
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Originally Posted by Cirbo
So what is the procedure for adjustment of the crossed GM or Napa part?

TIA,

jC
The thing that sticks out and that has the spring around it. You can turn the pintle and screw (or unscrew) it for it to be longer/shorter before you install it.
Screw it so that it "looks" like your stock length. The ECU will close/open it based on the sensors feedback anyway, so... there is no real adjustment.
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I have an ex MoD and an ex wife. The two no longer conflict with each other.
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1995 D90 NAS
1996 Discovery NAS
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  #24  
Old February 3rd, 2007, 12:55 PM
dnp
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David
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Has anyone come up with an "accurate" way to adjust the pintle length on the replacement stepper? I just bought an AC Delco replacement valve (it is, by the way, an exact duplicate of the factory one I removed, with the exception of the adjustable pintle), and I simply screwed the pintle in until it met the slide-in part (it'll be obvious if you're holding one in your hand). I installed it, and the truck seems to be idling perfectly..........if I'm experiencing a completely smooth idle now, is this all I need to do or should I remove it and adjust the pintle to a specific length (which unknown length is really the reason for these questions)

I probably should leave well enough alone, but I just want to make sure everything is within spec so it'll continue running well........any ideas?
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  #25  
Old February 4th, 2007, 02:55 PM
dnp
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David
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnp
Has anyone come up with an "accurate" way to adjust the pintle length on the replacement stepper? I just bought an AC Delco replacement valve (it is, by the way, an exact duplicate of the factory one I removed, with the exception of the adjustable pintle), and I simply screwed the pintle in until it met the slide-in part (it'll be obvious if you're holding one in your hand). I installed it, and the truck seems to be idling perfectly..........if I'm experiencing a completely smooth idle now, is this all I need to do or should I remove it and adjust the pintle to a specific length (which unknown length is really the reason for these questions)

I probably should leave well enough alone, but I just want to make sure everything is within spec so it'll continue running well........any ideas?
UPDATE 1: Well, I was pretty sure the stepper motor replacement had fixed my idling problem, but I've run into another issue associated with it. I drove it all yesterday afternoon, much of the time at a slow speed, and it seemed to run very well. However, later in the evening, it started its erratic idling again, and I was fearful something had messed up with the new stepper motor. Then I noticed something: the only time it would idle/run poorly was when the headlights were turned on. Even with the heater blower on high, it ran OK, but when I turned on the headlights (with or without the heater), it started to stumble........I presume this could be an issue with the alternator not putting out enough power, right? (It looks to be the original alt.) If this is the case, what is "the setup" for a new alternator? If I'm going to change it, I'd like to install a higher-amperage unit, so do any of you have any suggestions on a hotter alternator? If you don't think it's the alternator, would you think it would have something to do only with the headlight circuit?

UPDATE 2: While driving it today (at a crawling speed), on two separate occasions, the engine just died. I mean, it just died like the key had been turned off (one of the times, I was going down a hill slowly, so with the engine still turning over, I gave it some throttle, but nothing happened) When I came to a stop, it cranked back up with no problem, and as long as I drove it at "normal" speeds, it seemed to run fine (provided I didn't turn on the headlights) The problems with this rig are REALLY starting to get irritating, so any help would be greatly appreciated!
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  #26  
Old February 4th, 2007, 05:01 PM
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Doug Walker
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Why not call George at www.RoversDownSouth.com, and get a referral to a qualified mechanic near you? When things get this frustrating, it's time to pull out the checkbook. I'm sure a mechanic familiar with the hotwire EFI system in your truck can sort this out for you.

Doug W.
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  #27  
Old February 4th, 2007, 05:59 PM
dnp
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David
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug
Why not call George at www.RoversDownSouth.com, and get a referral to a qualified mechanic near you? When things get this frustrating, it's time to pull out the checkbook. I'm sure a mechanic familiar with the hotwire EFI system in your truck can sort this out for you.

Doug W.
Thanks for the suggestion, and I may just do that. Before doing so, however, I thought I'd see if anyone here could tell me if my problems were likely due to alternator low power issues. Heck, within the last 18 or so months, everything else has been changed out....I guess I ought to go ahead and change out the alternator for good measure!! That being said, I'm still looking for recommendations on what the "updated" alternator setup might be.......
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  #28  
Old February 5th, 2007, 11:46 AM
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Jim Ngo
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David,

Have you reset the base idle?

Jim
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  #29  
Old February 5th, 2007, 11:53 AM
dnp
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David
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No I haven't. How is that done?
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  #30  
Old February 5th, 2007, 03:17 PM
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Jim Ngo
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The objective of the base idle adjustment is to allow just enough air to come through the main intake to barely keep your D90 running.

Here are the steps (doing this from memory, but it's not too complicated):

Make sure engine is up to normal operating temp.

1. Disconnect the stepper motor connector.
2. Next you have to prevent the idle air bypass. There are a couple of ways to do it. The quickest way is to clamp the idle air bypass hose. Needle-nose vise grips work well. But be careful to not damage the hose. The other way is to use two plugged hoses to replace the idle air bypass hose. That's what I've done. Either way, your goal is to prevent air from passing through the idle air bypass.
3. Find the base idle screw on the intake. It's directly on top. The factory put a plug on it so you may have to remove this by carefully drilling a small hole, then screwing in a metal screw & using pliers to pull the plug out. Now, have a 3/16" allen wrench handy to adjust the base idle screw.
4. Start the truck. If it doesn't idle at all then you will need to turn out the screw a full turn and try to start the truck again.
5. Turn down the base idle until the truck is at a very low idle (I go for around 500 RPMs).
6. Shut off the truck, unclamp or reinstall your idle bypass hose, reconnect the stepper motor.
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  #31  
Old February 5th, 2007, 03:33 PM
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Guy above replace the alternator. They do that sometimes and cause the issues you are having.
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