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  #1  
Old December 19th, 2009, 05:05 PM
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Keith Kreutzer
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Here's a good one! 300Tdi

I installing a new timing belt after a nearly fatal failure of the idler on my 300.
Following the instructions in the manual and using factory TDi tools I have found the TDC indication at he front of the crank does not match the slot in the flywheel with the factory TDC tool fits? By about 45 dgrees?

Any Ideas, could the flywheel be put on wrong? I thought they where doweled?
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  #2  
Old December 19th, 2009, 05:11 PM
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Flywheel will only go in one position as the bolt holes are staggered.



TDC arrow is at the 12:00 position inside the timing chest. and the woodruff key should be at the 12:00 position too.... strange one that, although i seem to remember there being 2 lots of grooves in my flywheel, might pay to move it around a few degrees either side of the woodruff key being in the 12:00 position and see if there's any other grooves in it?
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  #3  
Old December 19th, 2009, 05:12 PM
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Wow. thats strange. I would think the fly wheel is some how different.. I would trust the crank mark
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  #4  
Old December 19th, 2009, 05:43 PM
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Keith Kreutzer
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I have assembled it according to the front mark, seems like it's not timed right.. Not lighting up.
Woodruff key was at 12:00.
I did look for further grooves in the flywheel, I actually used a rubber bungy to push the pin of the flywheel tool up while cranking the crank around, this was the only one it dropped into..
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  #5  
Old December 19th, 2009, 07:56 PM
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On my ltwt with the 200tdi, I couldn't use the flywheel tool as the hole sits on top of a crossmember. Using the woodruff slot at 12 o'clock was my only option and it timed out correctly and sounds and runs great. Have you tried looking at the flywheel with a borescope?
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  #6  
Old December 19th, 2009, 07:59 PM
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Keith, like Jim said, there are two places that the timing "tool" will drop in. I'd be making sure you in the right slot (or make sure you have a good escape route). Flywheel can only go in one position.
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  #7  
Old December 20th, 2009, 07:45 AM
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Could the slot be filled with some crud or something?
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  #8  
Old December 20th, 2009, 02:58 PM
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So I pulled it apart, found the proper slot for #1 TDC. The timing wasn't really off. It's now started but hard it idles and seems to have some power but it's smoky, diesel stinky smoke.
I fear that when the belt went it bent some valves and I'm not getting very good compression?
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Old December 20th, 2009, 05:21 PM
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So the belt broke while it was running ?



If there is anything I can do to help let me know, even if it is just a spare sets of hands.
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  #10  
Old December 21st, 2009, 06:01 AM
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Time for a compression test Then you can figure out what is bent
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  #11  
Old December 21st, 2009, 10:02 AM
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To make sure the valves were not being held open by an improper lash adjustment I ran though the valve lash procedure. It started and ran the same as before. smoky at idle shuddle and stutter while reving up.
So I took the time to pull the rocker arms off and lay a straight edge across the ends of the valves. In theory these should be very close to the same height within several thousands of an an inch.
I found the exhaust valves sitting lower than the intake in varying height's, one as much as .050". So I pulled the head. Indeed there are exhaust valve imprints in the pistons, just visable. But the valves appear to be straight.. Crap.. count out the straight edge idea.
At least pulling these things apart is relatively easy.
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Old December 21st, 2009, 10:27 AM
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Did you check the push rods too?
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  #13  
Old December 21st, 2009, 10:34 AM
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Indeed the failure of the belt lead to two broken pushrods and a couple bent ones. All of them have been replaced with new ones.
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  #14  
Old December 22nd, 2009, 04:30 PM
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Are the rockers OK?
I hear they can get bent too
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  #15  
Old December 22nd, 2009, 05:13 PM
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Keith Kreutzer
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Rockers appear to be okay, nice and an straight. This makes me worry about connecting rods. I should have time to check that tonight.
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  #16  
Old December 22nd, 2009, 05:57 PM
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How long was the belt in there before it snapped?
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  #17  
Old December 22nd, 2009, 09:37 PM
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Keith Kreutzer
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EVERYTHING MUST GO, JOINING CLERGY,
Forgive me Father for I have sinned.... Okay no offense to those who might be offended.
Here's the story:
When I got the truck with 130K on it the belt had been changed at 115K or so. I figured I had a little time with the truck sitting on 150K.
I was right, the belt did not actually fail, it was in like new condition.
What I assumed is that the tensioner had been upgraded or the truck came with the later tensioner 1997 was the year they changed them.
I was wrong it was actually the plastic part of the early style tensioner that failed once the overmold came off the steel tensioner bearing the tension was lost and the timing went kaboom!

In very short order I was saying WTF?!?!?!! And then heard metal on metal noises from the engine, then key off!

Now back to today's most important question, are the connecting rods bent.. No thank goodness. And thanks to George at RDS for getting me the dimension I needed to check it off of one of his new short blocks!

I will do the valves Saturday and put it back together Sunday and hope for better results than last weekend.
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  #18  
Old December 22nd, 2009, 10:06 PM
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Keith - here's wishing you a smoothly running 300 as a two-day late Christmas present. Good luck on the re-assembly, buddy. Mark
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  #19  
Old December 22nd, 2009, 10:07 PM
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Glad to hear that the rods are straight bummer that it is giving you such a hard time
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  #20  
Old December 23rd, 2009, 05:42 AM
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It takes a good dose of water sucked into the engine to bend the con rods
Did you leak test the valves in the head by pouring some thing like white spirit into the ports and seeing if any got past the valves.
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