Help with rear link removal - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 6th, 2005, 03:23 AM
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David Williams
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Help with rear link removal

I try removing my rear link to install new ones. The problem that I have is that I cant get the bolt out. Have any of ya'll had any problem like this on yours? Seems like the bolt is seized on the bushing. What the best way to get it out? Cut the the bolt and link out and install new bolt? I down for any advise.

Thanks,
David
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  #2  
Old March 6th, 2005, 10:03 AM
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Upper link or lower link?

If its the lower link, it was easiest for me to remove the 3 bolts holding the bushing to the chassis so there is some float, then whack away at the link-to-axle bolt. If you are talking about the upper link where it joins the chassis - well, thats just a bitch.
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  #3  
Old March 6th, 2005, 02:52 PM
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David Williams
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It the lower link. I will try to wack at to see if that helps.

Thanks
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  #4  
Old March 7th, 2005, 08:10 AM
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IF you have to, cut it... you are replacing it anyway...Mine were seized on too
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  #5  
Old March 9th, 2005, 02:36 PM
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Mike Hammond
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Copper grease when you reassemble
I had the bolts seize in the front hockey stick bushes once, a monumental P.I.T.A.
Ended up taking the whole axle off so I could cut through the bolts
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  #6  
Old October 19th, 2009, 11:35 AM
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Upper Link Assembly rusted solid

Hey Guys,

The idea of a solid link suspension system in a race car is very appealing indeed. In a 1994 D 90, thats another matter.

Anyone out there have any idea how to disassemble the three Upper Link suspension pieces on the back of a D 90? (That is short of small explosives and cutting tourches)

Also, has anyone actually replaced the Upper Link ball joint on same? It appears to me in no uncertain terms that if the truck is 10+ years old with typical rust/corrosion, this cant be done while this assembly is on the truck, though I did see a photo out there on the Web where some Indians had turned a Rover on it's side to work on the thing and by the looks of their smiling faces, it was obvious they were enjoying an afternoon replacing the Upper Link ball joint.

Even being so lucky as to dismount the Upper link assembly attachment points at the frame and rear axle, the assembly will not give into heating and mild blows with a hammer. Some thoughts on this?

Mark
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  #7  
Old October 19th, 2009, 11:40 AM
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Stick impact gun on bolt head and go on full reverse to spin it. Take 6ft pipe and put it on end of 24in breaker bar and try to turn bolt backwards.
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  #8  
Old October 19th, 2009, 11:52 AM
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Heavy Metal

Sounds like you've been there. Already snapped two SK breaker bars and one special tool we use for removing 600 ft.lb center lock nuts on the race car.

Never seen anything not give to that tool but warped the fixture at the end rendering it unusable. At this point based on time investment alone, prob cheaper to just get new links. Starting to get very discouraged but I'll give the impact tool a try.

They should sell these things to bridge constructors

Thanks
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  #9  
Old October 19th, 2009, 12:20 PM
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To get the ball joint free from its spot on the housing I had to hit the end of the housing with a 10lbs sledge. I have also heard of people loosening the nut up and driving around over bumps until it frees itself.
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  #10  
Old October 19th, 2009, 12:27 PM
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Nothing Like a good Pounding

Thats what I always say, but the Honeymoon is over.

So far the ball joint has resisted heat, punding, my 2 ft. bench vise wich I've disassembled all kinds of press fit machine, tractor, you name it parts with.

There must be allot of guys over in the UK going around making a living with sledge hammers

Thanks
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  #11  
Old October 19th, 2009, 12:39 PM
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Down here in NC we dont really have these problems :D

My Disco came out of FL and some of the bolts were a pain so I cut them off and replaced them. The Ball joints I have pressed out by a buddy of mine on a 60 ton press. I grease them on install and then wipe a little RTV around to keep any moisture out of the splines for when (if) they ever need changing again.
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  #12  
Old October 19th, 2009, 01:49 PM
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Kevin Buckley
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UpnOver
I try removing my rear link to install new ones. The problem that I have is that I cant get the bolt out. Have any of ya'll had any problem like this on yours? Seems like the bolt is seized on the bushing. What the best way to get it out? Cut the the bolt and link out and install new bolt? I down for any advise.

Thanks,
David
You need a 7" cutoff wheel on a 4.5" grinder with no safety shield. Slot it in up carefully from below between the axle mount and the link and cut the bolt at each end. wear a face shield a heavy gloves and don't torque the wheel, straight in and out.
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  #13  
Old October 19th, 2009, 05:19 PM
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Next Stop UK

I'm going over to the UK to seek fame and make fortune with a sledge hammer and various sized grinders. I figure thats all I'll need for tools to stay busy for a while.

I just bent one of the trailing arms in a press before it would yeild to separating. Nothing holding it together but rust. Bolt heads twisted off with impact tool, nuts removed (with heat) but the &*%^&$%(* thing would not separate. Over 1200 lbs to it, fixtured for a straight shot, before it started to deflect. Knowing the material would not spring back, we stopped there. Now I have a slightly bent A arm to beat other similar parts with.

I'm imagining the smiles on the faces over there in the UK back in the day as these bolts are tourqued together on this particular assembly.
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  #14  
Old October 19th, 2009, 05:45 PM
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Its not that they put them together particularly tight, but that they rust solid in certian environments.
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  #15  
Old October 19th, 2009, 07:25 PM
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http://lh5.ggpht.com/_8AqLEYwCLgc/Sr...0/P1090018.JPG
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  #16  
Old October 20th, 2009, 12:52 PM
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Top Link Assembly

Right. Good shot of the bottom link provided by JSQ. With that assembly you can quickly determin if you'd like to save the hardware or cut it off. LR even provides enough space to use the DeWalt tool.

The Top Link Assy is another matter and yes, I do realize they dont use a whole lot of tourque on these bolts. What I was reffering to with the smiles in the UK is who in their right mind would assemble mating pieces of dissimilar materials, used in a suspension system without even the thought (apparently) of using some kind of rust inhibitor or anti-seize compound on the assembly to make it serviceable. I guess on the other hand, the same could be said for any number of vehicle Mfg's out there. Front lower ball joints on a 3/4 ton GMC come to mind.
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  #17  
Old October 20th, 2009, 03:22 PM
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what dissimilar materials?
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  #18  
Old October 22nd, 2009, 05:06 PM
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I wish I had a time machine, I'd take myself back in time and present Landrover with the biggest tub of copper slip you've ever seen. 4 hours to remove the 4 M16 bolts from the front Hockey sticks on the Discovery.
Fire and a F@$%^& big cheater bar finally got them undone
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  #19  
Old October 22nd, 2009, 05:09 PM
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Ahh I sure love living in sunny Los Angeles California. I can work on my 90 wearing nothing but speedos. Why when I took off my trailing arms i just threw a mattress under my truck, undid the bolts (finger tight) then I farted on it and voila they fell right off.
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  #20  
Old October 22nd, 2009, 05:21 PM
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Copper Slip

That must be Anti Seize here. I just bought another shipment of the stuff. I'm getting ready for my big trip to the UK as a forensic rust technician. Tool kit: various sized chisels, hack saws, 3", 6" and 12" cutting wheels, acetylene torch, air hammer, jack hammer, back hoe. Not a wrench in the lot, dont need one
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