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  #1  
Old March 17th, 2008, 04:14 PM
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Kenny Bahr
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Help with rear door

I have to lift the rear door in order to shut it. I took a few pictures to see what I'm refering to. The two bolts on the hinge itself are really rusted, and I can't move them at all. What should I do?
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  #2  
Old March 17th, 2008, 04:29 PM
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Just don't open the rear door... :-)

I would put PB Blaster on the screws for the next few days then change out the screws with stainless ones.

Scott
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  #3  
Old March 17th, 2008, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennybahr
I have to lift the rear door in order to shut it. I took a few pictures to see what I'm refering to. The two bolts on the hinge itself are really rusted, and I can't move them at all. What should I do?

Change out the rusted parts and replace the hinge pins. Looking at the margins around the door the hinge pins may be worn out. Adjust the strike as needed.
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  #4  
Old March 17th, 2008, 08:33 PM
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the brass balls are worn...replace them and you should be good to go...
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  #5  
Old March 17th, 2008, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover
the brass balls are worn...replace them and you should be good to go...
Awesome!!! Thank you guys so much for all of your help! I love this D90 forum/Community, it's great how fast you get help, and the amount of knowledge this board has is incredible.

Does anyone know where I can get the brass balls, and maybe a part number too?

Thanks,
Kenny
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  #6  
Old March 17th, 2008, 11:59 PM
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They come in a rebuild kit, for less than 10 bucks. I can't find a part number for them right now, but any Rover parts place will have them.
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  #7  
Old March 18th, 2008, 12:54 AM
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I think this is it. http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/5509.cfm I am sure you can find them from the other vendors as well. These are for the series but I used them on my door (95 d90) and they where the same ones. Hope this helps
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  #8  
Old March 18th, 2008, 01:00 AM
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george at rds has them
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  #9  
Old March 18th, 2008, 01:03 AM
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Thats it - I dont know why the search function at AB is such complete crap. It almost never gives you what you want, and a whole lot of what you dont.
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  #10  
Old March 19th, 2008, 12:33 PM
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Kenny, if you have time it would be great if you took a few pix as you did this project and posted your journey. I'd love to see what the overall difference turns out to be. I too see this problem starting on my SW rear door and will need to make the same upgrade someday i bet.

Clay
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  #11  
Old March 19th, 2008, 12:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40
Kenny, if you have time it would be great if you took a few pix as you did this project and posted your journey. I'd love to see what the overall difference turns out to be. I too see this problem starting on my SW rear door and will need to make the same upgrade someday i bet.

Clay
I ordered this part yesterday: http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/5509.cfm I hope this works. I will gladly take pictures of the rear door and hinges when I replace them, hopefully next week.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Kenny
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  #12  
Old March 19th, 2008, 01:44 PM
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I hope you got two kits.

Ron
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  #13  
Old March 19th, 2008, 01:56 PM
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Kenny Bahr
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Smile

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
I hope you got two kits.

Ron
Yes, I ordered two kits
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  #14  
Old March 19th, 2008, 02:26 PM
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While you're working on it, replace those bolts with stainless! You'll love it.
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  #15  
Old March 19th, 2008, 02:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cellulararrest
While you're working on it, replace those bolts with stainless! You'll love it.
You know, I'm thinking of replacing all bolts with stainless. Where is the best and the cheapest place to order a kit from? I haven't seen a kit that has the rear cross-member bolts either. let me know

Kenny
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  #16  
Old March 19th, 2008, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennybahr
You know, I'm thinking of replacing all bolts with stainless. Where is the best and the cheapest place to order a kit from? I haven't seen a kit that has the rear cross-member bolts either. let me know

Kenny
It looks as if Andrew is sold out, but I'd still PM him anyways. JimC has been known to put a group buy together from time to time...

If all else fails use this pdf that Jim put together and order what you need from McMaster.

Good luck!
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  #17  
Old March 19th, 2008, 09:14 PM
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Kenny Bahr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themaxx
It looks as if Andrew is sold out, but I'd still PM him anyways. JimC has been known to put a group buy together from time to time...

If all else fails use this pdf that Jim put together and order what you need from McMaster.

Good luck!
Awesome...

Thanks
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  #18  
Old March 19th, 2008, 11:00 PM
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Chris Snyder
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I grabbed one of JimC's kits a little while back and he included rear crossmember bolts. Great kit. Very well put together.
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  #19  
Old March 20th, 2008, 01:45 AM
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Yeah, I just sold the last of them. If I have a few people interested I can put a few more together. Mine included everything even the tire carrier, bonnet and captive nuts for the bulkhead. If people are interested PM me and I'll put a few more together. I just don't want to sit on a bunch of kits.
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  #20  
Old March 21st, 2008, 10:30 AM
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Kenny Bahr
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Follow up post

I replaced the hing bolts and brass balls with the parts from Atlantic British. However, it did not solve my problem. The door is still uneven when it closes. I ended up moving the hinges that are bolted on to the door, but it is very hard to align them so the door closes. I finally ended up managing to open and close the door with no problem, but it just isn't as even as it should be. I'm also not sure how the brass ball, spring and bolts are supposed to work...can anyone inform me?

I also ended up snapping a few bolts while I was doing this project. The door striker on the truck, there are two bolts, I snapped one M88. I also snapped two of the bolts on the door striker itself on the rear door, the have phillips head tops. Can I replace these bolts with stainless steel, or anything I can get from Lowes or Home Depot. Let me know

Thanks in advance for any help

Kenny

ps I'll post pictures later.
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