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  #1  
Old July 12th, 2005, 06:45 PM
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Tony Fannin
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Help with head removal...

I've been working on doing a head gasket replacement to cure my overheating problem. The leak appears to have been on the left hand side of the engine. I was able to remove the right side quite easily. My problem is removing the left head. What all do I need to remove to make it possible? I've removed the alternator but can't remove the alternator braket as ti appears to have a stud that goes into the front of the block. The bolt on the head won't let it slide out. I don't know how to reach that bolt as is anyways. A wrench won't fit in there.

I'm about to remove the radiator, power steering pump, pulleys, distributor, and every damn other thing attached to the front of the engine to get it out. Why did they have to make this side so damn complicated when the left was so easy?

Is there any simpler way to get the head off?

Follow-up Post:

Ok, frustration, a big hammer, and a friend to encourage me and we got it. Now the question is if I'll ever get it all back together right.
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  #2  
Old July 12th, 2005, 07:21 PM
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The mounting plate that is giving you trouble, is also bolted to the front of the head in 2 places. One of which is a flush mounted bolt that takes an allen key to remove. You're going to have to remove the power steering pump and brackets to get at it. The other stud that you've already gotten the nut off of is actually one of the head bolts.

Just a side note, you DO have the revised torque specs for the head bolts, correct?

-Hans
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Old July 12th, 2005, 07:45 PM
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Tony Fannin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans
The mounting plate that is giving you trouble, is also bolted to the front of the head in 2 places. One of which is a flush mounted bolt that takes an allen key to remove. You're going to have to remove the power steering pump and brackets to get at it. The other stud that you've already gotten the nut off of is actually one of the head bolts.

Just a side note, you DO have the revised torque specs for the head bolts, correct?
Yeah, I got the power steering pump off and found that flush allen bolt and got things removed. I also broke my 4th socket removing that last head bolt.

I've got the specs that were provided with the full Atlantic British head gasket kit. It says 15lb/ft, then 90 degrees, then 90 degrees again. For bolt 10 with the stud tighten to 66lb/ft in three 22lb/ft increments. This updated gasket also requires no head bolts on the lower 4 holes which is interesting.
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Old July 12th, 2005, 08:06 PM
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Yep, thats the new specs for the composite gaskets. If you use those specs, make sure you have the correct new bolts as well. I believe the term is "torque to yield". And also, you can only torque them ONCE using that method. If you do, then have to remove them, you need new bolts. For mine, I used the ARP head stud set and just torqued normally.

Most times that I'm aware of, people have been putting the lower 4 bolts in but only torquing them to something like 15lb/ft and using loc-tite to keep them in place. Mainly just to fill the holes. For the bottom row, at that light of a spec, you can just re-use the old ones.

-Hans
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Old July 12th, 2005, 09:17 PM
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You can't physically put the lower four bolts in with the new style gaskets.
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Old July 12th, 2005, 10:15 PM
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Well, the gaskets DO need to be notched a bit to clear the bolts, that is correct.

-Hans
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Old July 12th, 2005, 10:56 PM
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Chris Davis
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A tip on the head bolts, since I have had the head bolts off in the Defender 3 times and the Discovery 1 time all in 2 months. Take a marking pen (I use the paint ones) and put a mark on the head of the bolt (I did it at the 6 oclock position) and torque 90 degrees and then 90 degrees again. The first time I used a gauge to get it "exact", but I feel (as do a lot of LR techs) that the paint method is totally sufficient. I have had no issues with this method. FWIW.
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