Help with 200tdi Rear Seal and Clutch - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 26th, 2016, 07:50 AM
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BlackField
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Oscar
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Help with 200tdi Rear Seal and Clutch

Hello all,

My 200tdi is leaking oil at an unacceptable rate. I washed off the valve cover, turbo, and most of the block and the leak doesn't appear to be up top. I'm assuming the rear main seal and cross seals (sump seal?) are the likely culprits.

I'd like to swap out all the common leaky seals without dismantling the entire engine, and while the down pipe and Xmission is out of the way I'd like to swap out my starter and do a new clutch as well (Slave was redone a couple of months back).

It took me two weeks to complete my timing belt last year. I think I could do one in an hour on my truck now. Having said that I'm looking for help on this one from someone who's done it before.

If I can't find some help in August it will likely go to the shop in September, so there is plenty in the budget for beer, pizza, Vietnamese sandwiches, straight up cash, or maybe I can have some custom bracket whatever'mabob designed and machined in exchange for the help.

I have plenty of tools, a couch and a big umbrella for my sunny driveway.

I'm in Flushing Queens.

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  #2  
Old July 26th, 2016, 08:06 AM
Naplm00
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Matthew
1983 110 200tdi 3 door soft top
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I was going to do mineby sliding tge tcase and Trans back and decided not to.

Common knowledge is to pull the engine and Trans from the truck and do it on the crane or engine stand. Do you have either? Or drop the trans and tcase with a few Jacks.


Also there aren't cross seals, just a rear main and a block to housing seal. If you don't have a Welder buying a pre strengthend clutch fork would also be a good idea.

I'd also call around to machine and Napa shops to see who can machine or broach the flywheel flat while you wait. This will make it a one day job. You will need new locating pins for the flywheel as the old ones will be destroyed when removed... Grinding a flat surface on them and using a vise grip and slide hammer to remove. Thread on this topic:

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ins-68504.html


Buy a lt77 input shaft seal just in case

Buy a plastic pivot and staple for the clutch fork as well.

Buy a HD clutch kit for a 110 or 130 (I used a Valeo in mine)

Buy a oem or genuine rear main

Have red scotch Brite pads on hand

Buy loctite bearing shaft mount or equivalent for the seal outer edge and moly engine assembly lube for the splines.

Buy black rtv or a tube of great stuff for the block gaskets.

You have the choice of either pulling the engine or dropping the trans and tcase. Trans and tcase are probably quicker to remove but harder to restab, you will also need a driveshaft tool (I've got one)


Think that's everything, and I wouldn't mind helping! Did e this job twice, once during a rebuild and once at 45k after a cheap seal died (lesson learned)
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  #3  
Old July 26th, 2016, 11:00 PM
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BlackField
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Wow that's a great write up. Thanks!

I'll start collecting the needed bits and parts. Pulling the engine is damn near last on my list of things to do this summer (ever). HD clutch and strengthened bits along the way sounds great, didn't even know reinforced forks were out there. I imagine that's not terribly expensive insurance.
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Old July 26th, 2016, 11:20 PM
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John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
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Pull the engine. It is much, much easier getting everything done properly that way. A couple of guys can get it out in two hours.
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