Help: Suspension Suggestions - Page 2 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #21  
Old January 19th, 2005, 08:53 AM
Ntajeep
Status: Offline
Matthew Bremner
1997 AA Yellow D90
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 47
OME = old man emu = ARB springs and shocks. The OME kit that is referred to is the ARB suspension. Like I said before I bought OME all around with shocks, disconnected sway bars, and put new tires on, 285/75/16 SSR's which are 33.8', and the suspension in the rear was more than enough to handle the things I did. The only thing that ever stopped me was soupy mud. Just drive it around before you modify it or you won't know the benefit of the modifications.

-matt
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #22  
Old January 19th, 2005, 11:14 AM
souza's Avatar
souza
Status: Offline
Dave Souza
1995 Defender 90 SW #275
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Foster, RI, USA
Posts: 376
I have the LTB 34x10.5 swamper TSL, and they actually replaced the 255/85 BFG MT, which were my first upgrade. I still have the same OME HD/Bilstein suspension, with no trailing arms or retainers, just the sway bars removed. Let me say you can go a lot of places with a basic setup like this. Yes I put tires in the air and get crossed up, yes I get stuck plenty, but I get further than some, not as far as others. Add a winch for recovery and it's a cabable vehicle.

The swampers made a big difference off road, particularly in mud of course, but really hurt the on road compared to the BFG. The BFG MT I barely noticed after the AT's it came with. Part of my swamper problem is the rims, which were used and out of round (soon to be replaced with new steelies). But they also bounce a bit after the truck has sat for a while, and that's the biggest difference of a bias ply tire, they flatten out. It works itself out after they warm up though. And they are VERY loud. My wife can hear me coming down the street 30 seconds before she can see me . There's also a huge difference in perception about what's acceptable on road. I think the swampers on road are awful, full of vibes and shimmys, but after driving my truck for a 6-7 hr highway trip Hippert called my truck 'smooth'...

Christian, if you don't want to just keep it stock for a while (I knew I couldn't do that with mine when I got it either) my recommendation is to go with a simple OME lift, choose either OME or Bilstein shocks, yank the swaybars and put some 33" mud terrain tires on. I'd recommend the 255/85 or the 285/75 as they are both about 33", with either 10" or 12.5" wide. This shouldn't give you any driveline vibes, and if you stick with a 'mild' MT like BFG, MTR, Dunlop, etc, you shouldn't have a problem balancing them and your highway driving won't be affected much. The gearing will be a little high, but plenty of us run 33 inch tires without a gearing change.

A year or two driving the truck with a setup like this will really tell you what you want next, being either flexi-suspension or lockers/gears. The terrain you drive and driving style you develop will help point you in that direction. When I was in Fla, I decided I could sacrifice some highway driving for better mud traction, which is why I went swamper. Now that I'm in NE, I'm looking at gears and lockers to help with the hills and rocks I find where I wheel now. I do want more flex, and I'm actually working on getting some additional rear flex now, I just feel the lockers will make a bigger difference for me.

As for a bumper/winch combo, I've got a safari gard bumper with a Superwinch S9000. I've had no problems with either. I've nudged a few trees pretty well and the bumper's fine. Folks on this list tend to favor Rockware, and I really only got the SG bumper instead because SG had been really supportive of our club in Fla. I like the look of both, although the fully boxed RW is probably stronger. Winches? Superwinch, Warn, Ramsey, whatever, I have no personal preference... my S9000 was like $600 brand new on ebay. I only hear that Warn winches don't like water. My Superwinch has been submerged so many times it's not funny. It does melt my synthetic rope a bit, but they have some pretty heat resistant stuff out there now, and my rope still holds anyway. I have no complaints about either. Try to attend a big Rally in your area like MAR, Uwharrie or Solaros where you can probably check out both and compare.

Well, that's probably more than $.02 worth from me, but I hope it helps. Good luck!
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old January 19th, 2005, 04:05 PM
gtg067i's Avatar
gtg067i
Status: Offline
Christian Shea
1997 Defender 90 Wagon
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 307
Thanks Dave for the great insight, I appreciate it greatly. I think from listening to everyone's suggestion I might go with a 2" lift and 12" travel ranchos or bilsteins to start with possibly 3" because I think it looks a bit more proportional with the 33 or 34 but we shall see. I think I am pretty sold on the Rockware bumper, how much did you guys pay for one, I saw on their site it says 750 but without light tabs and some other options, what is the final price fully tricked? Finally, I think I would fit a Mantec Spare Carrier to replace the one on the door in the back so as not to destroy the hinges, is it worth the $400 or so to do so?
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #24  
Old January 19th, 2005, 04:12 PM
souza's Avatar
souza
Status: Offline
Dave Souza
1995 Defender 90 SW #275
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Foster, RI, USA
Posts: 376
All the Rockware bumpers are custom made to your specs, I think when I priced one out it was around $850-$900 with the light tabs and recovery points, maybe even limb riser tabs. I don't know if that included shipping, probably not. Budget clost to $1K. As for the Mantec, I've had my eye on one for a while. I started carrying my Swamper spare on the roof rack, because it was so heavy I didn't trust the door. The 255/85 wasn't too much heavier than stock, but I was still getting some separation on the door, it just doesn't seem engineered well enough to support large tires like we have in the US. A Mantec is definitely on my shopping list, just below ARB/4:10 thirds
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old January 19th, 2005, 04:27 PM
Eric Siepmann
Status: Offline
Eric W. Siepmann
1997 Defender 90 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Chicago, IL, Cook
Posts: 883
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtg067i
Finally, I think I would fit a Mantec Spare Carrier to replace the one on the door in the back so as not to destroy the hinges, is it worth the $400 or so to do so?
Yes. The weight of a stock tire will grenade your door, let alone a 33 or 34. One hour to install and fairly bombproof. Get the RN hindge kit as well. It replaces the bushes, bolts and screws of your old ones. You can get a premixed aerosol of what ever color and re-spray them. The door on SWs is a two peice design that usually ends up cracking at the welds due to the design itself. Newer one peice doors from Euro spec trucks are available. I did the whole thing in one big shot. No more annoying rattles. The mantec only replaces your spare mounting posts and retains the other hardware.

EwS
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old January 19th, 2005, 04:31 PM
gtg067i's Avatar
gtg067i
Status: Offline
Christian Shea
1997 Defender 90 Wagon
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 307
Cool, thanks for the information yet again Dave. As this has sort of turned into a roving learning application for me I would like to ask one more question. The 90 I am looking at is the 97 blue wagon posted in the sale forum from tim in virginia. He was telling me the computer on the 90 does not talk to the OBDII when at the dealership and therefor will not reset the light. I am sort of a stickler for keeping electronics in order and happy as I am utterly suspicious of them and don't like the idea of riding around with a check engine light on and never knowing what the problem is. That said, is there a way to correct this you guys know of or if replacement is needed how much would it run? Thanks again.
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old January 19th, 2005, 04:37 PM
souza's Avatar
souza
Status: Offline
Dave Souza
1995 Defender 90 SW #275
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Foster, RI, USA
Posts: 376
I don't know anything about the ODBII, but I have a hard time believing that a particular 90 'won't talk' to the dealer's computer. But I have heard of D90's that the check engine light won't go out for various reasons. Those can be the ones that won't pass inspection either. I'd have that light diagnosed by Land Rover or someone with a code reader before I bought it.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old January 19th, 2005, 04:56 PM
gtg067i's Avatar
gtg067i
Status: Offline
Christian Shea
1997 Defender 90 Wagon
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 307
This is what Tim's email said:

The previous owner told me the computer in the truck will not 'talk' to the OBDII ( i think its called). The computer was put in another truck to read codes and turn off lights. YOu can notice in the speedo pic one light is on now, not sure which one.

Any other ideas?
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old January 20th, 2005, 02:07 PM
Mike Hippert's Avatar
Mike Hippert
Status: Offline
D-90Slut/Stalker,SNLPres
94 D-90 Grinding Rover
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Manchester NH USA
Posts: 4,789
If you can get it hooked to a scanner here are the codes for OBD I and OBD II

http://www.troublecodes.net/landrvr/

If no scanner works on it it sounds like the cable that the scanner plugs into may be bad.
__________________
Don't forget to
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old January 20th, 2005, 02:58 PM
artm
Status: Offline
Arthur Maravelis
97 SW
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Boston, MA USA
Posts: 985
Hmmm...the ECU cannot be read in one truck but can in another? That's a new one. If it can't be read in your truck how can you pass inspection. Assuming your state is like mine, it is a requirement. Furthermore, any code present in it will fail inspection.

As to you suspension search adventure, if you selected the Rockware shock mounts why not go with their complete setup? It's a proven design - very capable off road and most capable on. I would try to ride in another truck until you find one that fits your needs and copy their setup.

Here's what I have. It's not extreme but more than good enough for me.

Rockware shock mounts
Rockware trailing arms
OME 751/762 (front/rear)
Rancho 9207/9012 (front/rear)
ARB w/winch
BFG AT 33x12.5
Unique 15x8 steelies
removed front/rear anti-sway bars

So far so good. Only one caveat: the driver side shock mount was rubbing on the wheel well. On the compression stroke of a drop it would produce a bang. Had to cut and install 1/4" plate on both mounts to bring them out a bit. I'd never heard of anyone having to do that.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Front Suspension Buckon37s Misc. Chit-Chat 17 November 27th, 2006 01:02 AM
Equipe 4x4 suspension suggestions andyrad Defender Technical Discussions 0 May 30th, 2006 07:46 PM
Looking for Front Seat Suggestions smenzel Defender Technical Discussions 39 February 26th, 2006 07:55 PM
Another suspension question Joe P Defender Technical Discussions 1 March 15th, 2005 02:30 PM
Suspension Suggestions ? rcmorgan540 Misc. Chit-Chat 9 June 19th, 2004 12:00 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:07 AM.


Copyright