Help!!! State Inspection No brake lights !! - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old February 7th, 2008, 11:45 AM
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Dana Hammersley
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Help!!! State Inspection No brake lights !!

Just spent the morning splicing back to geather the wire that feeds my right front turn signal, also had to replace most of the washer fluid hose because of a fricken squirrel. I noticed those problems months ago. I just moved from Florida to Pa. where they require an auto inspection. So I was fixing the wrongs to make them right for the inspection. I low and behold no brake lights. Checked all the fuses and there is some screwy thing going on. The 4 7.5 fuses onthe top left of the passenger fuse box that supply the head light have not got power going to them. But the head ligts still work. How? The brake light switch is working because it lets me shift it out of park. Checked all the fuse in side and out all work fine except those 4. Just no brake lights at all. and yes I have checked the bulbs.I have looked at the wiring loom around where I spliced the other one, seems fine. I drove it months with no LF turn signal but I did have brake lights. Help please
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  #2  
Old February 7th, 2008, 01:03 PM
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Strange things can happen when brake lights short out. Mine caused one of my rear indicators to stay on while the brake light wouldn't work. The other brake light worked, but the running light didn't. I replaced the connectors and bulb holders and still had problems. I ended up replacing all of the connectors, bulbs, bulb holders, and fuses for the indicators/brakes. I didn't plan on doing all of this at once, but thats what finally fixed everything. I know this isn't that helpful... but its less than 100 bucks to do so, and if one bulb/connection is bad the others aren't far behind.



-- Or just go get some LED's from ECR.
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  #3  
Old February 7th, 2008, 01:07 PM
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Chris Hinkle
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Find a good set of electrical diagrams and a test light. I had to do this when I tried to match up a 300tdi harness to a 95 NAS rear harness(that had been hacked prior to me getting it). I ended up running a new wire just for the back up light. But I learned a lot in the process. I have a 90/110/130 electrical diagram set as a pdf file, but it is 7.7mb. I would check all the fuses then start by disconnecting the main and rear harnesses and go wire by wire (not that many) and see if signal is getting from your brake switch to appropriate wire. If not you work your way back to the switch - if you are, then it's in the rear harness which dives into the frame and comes out below the filler hose.
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Old February 7th, 2008, 02:52 PM
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The bulb holders are corroded. Sorry you moved here. Inspection is a nightmare in PA (solved for the moment by my new mechanic friend who is reasonable).

Ron
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Old February 7th, 2008, 04:16 PM
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Robert Bees
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I also found that the wiring harness behind the speaker in my truck had been spliced at some point for a trailer hitch and the poorly done splices had shorted, doing funny things to both the indicators and the brake lights.
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  #6  
Old February 7th, 2008, 07:47 PM
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Mike Doligalski
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I second that the bulb holders/ connectors are corroded. Unclip the plastic connector that holds the bulb and take a look inside. You might be able to just scrape some rust off the metal "pins" and get by to pass your inspection, but it's best just to order some new connectors and replace.


these are what you need: https://www.roversnorth.com/store/pc...r-90-95my.aspx
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Old February 7th, 2008, 08:08 PM
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Dana Hammersley
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But why would that cause all the brake lights not to work?
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Old February 7th, 2008, 09:41 PM
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Mike Doligalski
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Because it's a Land Rover and they are all corroded...

Seriously though, it would be a very simple fix if it were that all the connectors were corroded, and I think that it's not that implausible. If I were you I would check the metal "pins" in the connectors.
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  #9  
Old February 8th, 2008, 06:12 PM
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Chris Hinkle
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Dana- I tend to agree that if both brake lights and the third brake light are all out, then corrosion is probably not the problem. Small piece of sandpaper or an emory board will clean off the contacts quickly and then you can move on to the diagnostics.
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Old February 9th, 2008, 01:53 PM
Lee
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Lee O
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I had both tail lights out but the brake lights worked fine - seemed to happen at the exact same time. Both bulb holders were the culprit.

Cleaned out the connecting wire and filled both the female plug and the bulb holder w/ dielectric grease.

Lights work fine now.
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  #11  
Old February 9th, 2008, 04:58 PM
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Will
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If cleaning the contacts or replacing the bulb holders does not resolve the issue, try tracing the wiring using a multimeter and/or test light at each point in the circuit:

a. There's a 15 Amp fuse in the passenger compartment for the brake lights. Check the fuse, check for power on both sides of the fuse (when running). If power is here move on.

b. There is a Green wire from the 15 Amp fuse to the brake pedal switch. Check for power from the fuse to the brake pedal switch connector. If power is getting from the fuse to the brake pedal switch connector, move on.

c. When the brake pedal switch is pressed, power should be applied to the Green wire with the Purple stripe which leads to the tail/brake lamps. If not, check the brake pedal switch next.

- Check the switch by using the continuity or Ohm setting on a multimeter. Hook it up to the Green wire end, and to the Green with Purple stripe wire on the other end of the switch. Then press the switch. If the switch is working then the multimeter will indicate this by showing a closed circuit or a 0 (zero).

d. Check continuity from the lamp holder contacts to the brake pedal switch. There is a Green wire with a Purple stripe from each of the tail/brake lamps to the brake pedal switch. Check for power when running and have someone step on the brake pedal. If there's no power, there's a problem between the bulb holder(s) and the brake pedal switch.

e. Check all grounds also using the multimeter (set for continuity/ohms) and check for continuity of the grounds at both tail/brake lamps.

See the attached circuit diagram.
Attached Files
File Type: zip Untitled-1.zip (353.8 KB, 106 views)
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  #12  
Old February 10th, 2008, 08:09 PM
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Dana Hammersley
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Found the problem, you guys were right is was the blub holders. They where shot. I bought the protective boot kit off of Rovers North a few years back but never got aroud to putting them on just could not bring my self to cut and splice the wires since they were working, You know if it ain't broke don't fix it. They were alright in Florida but the first snowfall and those damn slt trucks hit the roads. Lived in Ohio 7 years ago forgot how much I hated thinking about that salt just sitting there eating away at my toys. Well I hate to say it but Shit Happens. thanks guys just never thought the salt would work onit that fast.
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