HELP! Replacing Rear Lft Break Light - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 2nd, 2006, 10:18 PM
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Jim Murray
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Question HELP! Replacing Rear Lft Break Light

Replacing My Rear Left Break Light?

I'm attempting to replace my rear left brake light system on my 1997 D90 ST. Its very corroded and not fixable as is. I got some replacement parts (new 3-color wires, plug, and bulb) but just dont want to screw anything up. What tools will I need? Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

You guys on the D-90 forum are the best!

Cheers,
Jim
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  #2  
Old August 3rd, 2006, 11:06 AM
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Well,....I would look at the wires and be sure to look where each one goes in on the plug. Maybe even mark them or take a pic. Then, I would cut them/strip them. Then take a peice of shrink tubing and slide in on one side of the connection. Then just use butt connectors or solder them together. Next, slide the shrink tubing over the connections and use a heat gun to shrink the tubing around the wires and connections. Then I would use some dielectric grease in the connection where the light housing plugs into the connector to keep out moisture, this will help you from having this problem again. Then I would put dielectric grease in all the connectors for your exterior lights. This may help. I just finished replacing all of my lights. I didn't have to use new connectors, so it was just a simple plug and go.
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Old August 3rd, 2006, 02:58 PM
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If you use crimp butt connectors, I'd recommend getting the waterproof ones. They have a sealant inside that flows when you heat shrink the tubing. I've seen them at Napa or if you have a place like West Marine near you, they have excellent waterproof, corrosion-resistant electrical stuff.
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Old August 3rd, 2006, 04:29 PM
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Agreed 100% on the Marine connectors if you are going to cut and splice.

In my opinion is bad to cut the tail harness. It will make a weak point where you cut it and corrosion will occur.

The 2 and 3 pin connectors are available without the wire extensions that LR puts in them (Durite UK), then you just pick apart the wiring connector and cut the corroded little female connectors off and install new ones. Then plug them back into the black plastic "holder" and you are done. I think it is better than cutting the tail harness and possibly making a weak point.
Mac or Snap-On makes the correct crimp tool to crimp these square type crimps and when you are done you can't tell it isn't factory. (but then again I'm pretty picky and I hate having to keep repairing customers tail harnesses where someone already did the "cut and splice" and it lasted 1 winter.)

Just my .02
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Old August 3rd, 2006, 11:01 PM
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I soldered the wires, used shrink tubing, then wrapped with elect. rubber flex tape, then enclosed the whole set up in
a cut short section bicycle tubing with one end stretched over the bulb holder assembly, and the other end zip tied.

I also used bicycle tubing to cover the electrical relay connections for the lights, located under the hood by the bulkhead.
Water would drip from the hood at the bulkead area directly unto the the connectors which cause shorts.

Rear wires are way too exposed to road elements. Used bike tubing makes great waterproofing jackets!
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Old August 19th, 2006, 04:01 PM
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Jim Murray
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Thumbs up Thank you very much to all!

Thanks guys! Your advice is really helpful. Much appreciated.

I am always amazed at the incredible knowledge and willingness to help on the D-90.com forum!

Cheers,
Jim
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