Help! Rear Shock Replacement Hell... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 29th, 2008, 10:27 AM
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Angry Help! Rear Shock Replacement Hell...

Arrrgh!!! I was moving along putting in the new rear springs and shocks in my 1997 D90. When I went to put in the first rear shock I realized that there seems to be welded flanges (1 above, 1 below the lower mount face) to hold the bushings for the stock shock setup. Well these shocks I'm putting in are looped (Rancho 9000XL) so I'm using a loop converter from RoverTym for the lower post mount. The loop converter needs to sit flush against the lower mount and I can't get the "bushing cups" out. Are they welded in place or is it just from years of road crud keeping them there? If they are welded any suggestions?

The 1995 did not have this issue. I used a loop converter on it no problem. Is this something new in the 1997s?

Can someone rescue me from my hell? The wife and kids get back in a few days and this is my playtime! Uggh.

Hutch
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  #2  
Old June 29th, 2008, 05:45 PM
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I am not sure what the loop converter is from RTE but I have their shock relocation kit and also use the 9000XL. I put new springs and shocks on this spring and the installation was very easy. But something tells me in order to use the 9000XL you have to have the relocation kit because the shock is too long? Also, those 9000XL are directional so make sure you have them in according to the arrows or you will screw up the shock.
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  #3  
Old June 29th, 2008, 05:53 PM
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Good timing - I was just going to post a photo of the loop converter. I have the exact same setup on my 95 and it was cake without the "cups". I have RT 2" coils, RT shock mounts top, loop converters for the bottom and Rancho 9000XLs (I have 9000X in my 95 as they didn't make the XLs back then).

For the Rancho's it's RS999207 (post/post) and the rears are RS999112 (eye/eye). What model ranchos do you have in do you know?

At any rate I'm hoping either someone here has dealt with this or Steve from RT will get back to me with some words of wisdom. (other than "Good Luck" of course)

At any rate take a look at the converter and let me know what you think.

Hutch
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  #4  
Old June 29th, 2008, 06:03 PM
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Do you have a welder? If you do, you may try a little trick that works on getting races out. Weld a bead around the outside of the cup. As the bead cools, it will contract the metal and you can hammer it out. I have not tried this in this exact application, but it works very well in similar spots. Only if you are going to throw away the cup of course.
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Old June 29th, 2008, 07:36 PM
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They are on 97s only.
They are spot welded in place.
Blow them off with and air chisel and forget about them. You'll never need or miss them.
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  #6  
Old June 29th, 2008, 09:06 PM
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  #7  
Old June 29th, 2008, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
They are on 97s only.
They are spot welded in place.
Blow them off with and air chisel and forget about them. You'll never need or miss them.
That's what I needed to hear! With all the profanity streaming from my mouth along with the coal chisel I was using I 1/2-way had the "air chisel" going!!!

I'm fortunate to live next to a neighbor that has every conceivable tool out there. I think he'll be able to hook me up. Does it come off clean? Or clean enough to file it down I guess...?


Hutch
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  #8  
Old June 29th, 2008, 10:28 PM
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Probably have to file down the leftover bead, but should be fairly clean. The adapter bolt would probably clear it and I wouldn't really worry about it if it did.
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  #9  
Old July 4th, 2008, 09:46 AM
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Talking

Just a quick followup - The air chisel did the trick. Shocks are on and all is well. Thanks for the advice....

Hutch
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  #10  
Old July 4th, 2008, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
They are on 97s only.
They are spot welded in place.
Blow them off with and air chisel and forget about them. You'll never need or miss them.
I could have sworn my 94 had them too. I must be thinking of my 99 D1 that had them then.
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