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  #21  
Old June 2nd, 2006, 09:47 AM
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Dave Souza
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Kris,

It's your cats (or one of them) I'd put money on it.

I hate disagree with Hans, because he's much more knowledgeable about these trucks than me, but I've seen these symptoms happen more than once to high mileage D90s. Luckily, it's an easy enough check, just bring it to a muffler shop and have them check it.

My truck had rattling cats, which is why I replaced them. I didn't want them to get plugged up and lead to the serious issues your having now (perhaps that was unneccesary, but I hated the rattle). If you've got both issues, sounds like the cats for sure to me.

Of course, I'm sure Hans is right in that something with the way your truck is running is resulting in a rich scenario and has caused the cats to plug up with gunk, etc, but right now I'd bet you needed at least one new cat to stop the stalling.

FYI, this happened to Tom Peacock's D90 and he only replaced the bad cat. 3 months later same issue, this time the other. So if you've got a bad cat, replace them both.
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  #22  
Old June 2nd, 2006, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billakris
Well, I solved one of the reasons why my 90 was shutting off seemingly randomly, and I thought I had it figured out until today.
I went over some railroad tracks today and i felt a jolt like i had slammed it into gear too fast, the check engine light and oil light came on for a fraction of a second, and then it was driving fine. All untill i hit the clutch, the RPM's went to zero and the engine died.
This has happened several times before, but like i said, I thought I had figured it all out. Anyways. The truck will run as long as I dont hold the clutch and let the RPM's drop to zero.
What could this be?
Thanks in advance
Kris

I ran into a similar issue about a year ago. I'd be driving and for no rhyme or reason the D90 would cough and hack then cut out. It happened more often when I went over bumps, but not always which made it really difficult to diagnose. After this went on for about a month I threw in the towel and had to have it towed to the local mechanic where it was finally repaired. It turned out that the wires on the male side of the harness that runs into the MAF sensor were loose, hence, all it took was a vibration and the engine would either completely cut out or sputter.

In your case this could be the issue and the fact that your beginning to smell sulfur indicates that's probably getting worse by allowing fuel into your exhaust system. There are actually a few reasons why this might occur as mentioned by Dave and Hans. But the results are the same when you smell the sulfur. The sulfur is actually an additive in the gasoline and is "cooked" inside the exhaust. There is lots of good advice in this thread and I'd explore all of them. Good luck.


DJ
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  #23  
Old June 2nd, 2006, 12:43 PM
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Kris
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Hey guys,
Thanks for all the great help.

Ive been changeing a few more connections, maybe ill get lucky with those. But I'm also going to head to an exaust shop this weekend hopefully and have them check out the cats.

As for getting back to you guys with results.... I dont know when that will happen because this really doesn't happen all that often(at most twice a month average over the year) but when it does happen its seems to be always at the most inopportune times.

Thanks again, and hopefully either I will get new cats or have no more troubles.
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  #24  
Old June 9th, 2006, 02:44 PM
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Will Roeder
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My truck started doing something similar today (95 D90).

When i come to a stop, the truck will be running fine, and as a slow down to about 10mph and disengage the clutch, the RPMs start to dip and fluctuate between about 100 and 300 RPMs, and then the motor dies. Then it will start right back up and run fine.

Im having trouble seeing the relationship between stopping and it stalling due to cats?

I thought it might be clutch trouble?
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  #25  
Old June 9th, 2006, 05:31 PM
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I just got back from the exaust place and they said the rattle was a frame bolt that was rubbing the cat, so they trimmed it up... i dont really know what they were talking about, I havnt looked yet.

They also told me that the exaust is fine otherwise. So it looks like there is some screwy electrics somewhere. They suggested the little black box that sits next to the coil on teh back of the plate.

I forget what its called, but the screws holding it in also serve as the ground for it, and they were loose a while ago and causing me a different issue. I fixed that, but they think that I may have shorted it out by having the loose ground.

Any ideas on this?

Thanks as always!
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  #26  
Old June 9th, 2006, 06:52 PM
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That box near the coil is the ignition module that has been relocated from the distributor. It may be a possibility to look into, but honestly I'm still thinking that an air leak between the air filter and throttle body may be the culprit.... unfortunately diagnosis via internet is never an exact science.

It may not be a bad idea to clean off the contacts for the ignition module and make sure it is gettiing a solid ground connection. One of these days I am going to finally get around to working out the GM HEI module swap onto the Lucas distributor, but I think it is also covered on some other websites somewhere.

-Hans
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  #27  
Old June 11th, 2006, 11:08 PM
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Dave Souza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billakris
They also told me that the exaust is fine otherwise.
I guess I'd have lost that money on the cats... damn. I should've know not to doubt Hans!
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  #28  
Old June 11th, 2006, 11:43 PM
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No, it's ok Dave...... No matter how much I sound like I know what I'm doing, a second opinion or alternate idea is never a bad thing. Especially so when considering the price of parts on these trucks. You never know... it may just be that I make persuasive arguements in a well spoken manner, but based on sketchy facts and wild-assed guessing :-)

Diagnosing car problems on the internet is about as inexact of a science as you can get. It's kinda like asking somebody to explain what a color looks like, or something smells like. The only way to really get it right is in person with hands-on work. All I can offer is ideas of where to look or what kind of mechanic to defer to.

-Hans
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  #29  
Old February 10th, 2008, 10:56 PM
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OK, I thought this was done for real this time. I haven't had a problem for several months now but here goes.

I was driving on the highway tonight, after about 30 mins, the truck "bucked" (basically shut off then right back on again within a fraction of a second). I pulled over turned the truck off and turned it back on and drove for another 20 mins no problem. Then it did it again, and within 5 mins again. Basically, in a 30 mins period, it "bucked" 6 times.

It started to take a fraction of a second longer to "turn back on" after it was doing it several times in a row. Finally, I pulled over again after having it happen a lot, turned the truck off and then rode for another 45 mins with no problems.

The check engine light flashes when it does this, and usually a code 03 pops up on the ecu display.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what this is?
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  #30  
Old February 11th, 2008, 04:56 AM
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Code 03 is for a "Memory Interruption", the FAQ suggests the possibility of an electrical surge. The "Bucking" also points toward a loss of power to the computer too, and probably the coil a the same time.

I'd look for loose connections around the battery, distributor and ignition module first. Particularly stuff that you had checked previously.... I know that any time I have something go bad, the first place to check is whatever I did most recently.

-Hans
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  #31  
Old February 11th, 2008, 09:34 AM
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Thanks Hans,
I will definitely give all of those connections another once over.

Do you think a bad battery can do this? I have had mine for over 7 years and it is probably time for a new one, but I haven't had any other signs of it dieing.

Let me know if there is anything else you can think of.
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  #32  
Old February 11th, 2008, 02:36 PM
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No, bad battery won't die like that usually. That will usually result in weak cranking, dim headlights and all sorts of other lovely problems first. And even then, should it die when driving it will die and stay dead. Same with if the alternator went out.

-Hans
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  #33  
Old February 11th, 2008, 06:23 PM
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Kris, I've been having the exact same issues for the past few months. years actually. extremely frustrating to say the least!!!!
Its so random that I'll change something and it seems to have fixed the issue but of course It'll happen again within a few days..

I cleaned the MAFs electircal connector (it was filled with old cruddy beige grease) and put some new dielectric grease in there.. that worked great until the issue started again. The comment earlier in the thread about loose wires on this connector struck me as a "perhaps" because of my earlier "success" with that area. But I've also run the engine with the connector completely disconnected so I don't know if this would casue the issue. ?
New cap, rotor, wires, plugs.. all worked great until the next time it stumbled on the highway and I had to shut it down and restart.. (At speed on the high way - is this the "LandRover Adventure" I've read about all my life? ) hahaha

Recently (past two months or so) mine has started the every now and then bucking like you mention. With clicking form my relays in the footwell. Replace the fuel pump and ECU (?) relays down there for good measure. Keep your fuel filter clean, make life easier on your pump, keep the relays alive.

My alternator is whining a bit but it still keeps my lights running and battery charged, so I looked further and noticed that my ignition amp hasn't been relocated so this is next on my hit list. This was also suggested in a recent thread of mine by a forum member.

Good luck, keep this post alive, also check my alternator issues thread a few down the line there..

~Steve
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  #34  
Old February 11th, 2008, 07:03 PM
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Hans and Steve,

Thanks for the help and suggestions.

I have replaced the relays, alternator, fuel filter, coil, fuel pump.... Redone connections galore, and moved the ignition module. I am starting to run out of things to do.

I have had to do the turn the truck off and back on while on the highway bit quite a few times now.

Let me know if you think of something else, and I'll keep you all updated.

Thanks again.
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  #35  
Old February 11th, 2008, 07:32 PM
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Steve Maietta
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Well, are we getting down to ECU?

Is there any way to "test" the ign amplifier?

So perhaps a wire in the harness is corroded or loose/split and intermittently it is causing this. So what one sensor or wire could cause this? For me, the rough running happens 90% of the time when Im at around 2200 rpm steady on the highway. The clicking relays/bucking happens equally around town and on the highway steady. The randomness of it all is what's so maddening!!!

Megasquirt here I come!

Good luck Kris

~Steve
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  #36  
Old February 11th, 2008, 09:35 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Are you guys all 100% sure that your ECU's are staying completely totally dry and that there is no chance that wierd water leaks are getting into them somehow?
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  #37  
Old February 11th, 2008, 10:00 PM
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not so sure about that. good call Jim.

~Steve
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  #38  
Old February 12th, 2008, 07:54 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I have the same issue - and I do not think it's moisture related since it just sits in my garage most of the time
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  #39  
Old February 12th, 2008, 09:42 AM
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Mine is sealed in tupperware. I don't think thats the cause unless I sealed it up with water in there.

I can definitely open her up and check though.
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  #40  
Old November 21st, 2008, 08:14 AM
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frustrated

Guys, Did anyone come up with an answer as to the stalling / bucking problem. My '94 is doing the exact same thing. I'e gone thru the vehicle as best I can and I am at my wits end. I have replaced the coil, spark plugs, fuel filter, fuel pump, fuel relay & fuse, the distributer and I have had a fuel injector cleaning service. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated.

Scott
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