Help: disconnecting fuel line union fitting - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old July 8th, 2010, 11:01 PM
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Help: disconnecting fuel line union fitting

I'm trying to drop the tank on the 90 and I've gotten as far as disconnecting one of the union fittings just forward of the tank. One line came apart easily; the other appears to have stripped out the union nut or the threads on the hose end. I've been trying for over an hour and still can't get it.

Do we hacksaw through the steel fuel line? Cut the rubber hose? Something else? I'm totally stumped at this point.

Also, I noticed that the fuel pump kit came with replacement olive nuts and union nuts. Are we supposed to cut the fuel lines and re-flare them with new union nuts?
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  #2  
Old July 8th, 2010, 11:08 PM
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On a 110 (not done this on a D90 thankfully) you can cut the rubber line and remove the outer metal fitting and there is a flared end underneeth. I just put some new rubber fuel injection line on it and put a couple clamps to hold it in place.
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Old July 8th, 2010, 11:14 PM
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Thanks, Ron. I'm not sure if I understand completely, though. Cutting the rubber line would free everything up and I would then be able to pull the metal fuel line off the truck...but I'm not sure I understand how that would help my stripped-out union fitting. It appears that whoever dropped the tank last cross-threaded this fitting on there.

What kind of fitting does the rubber hose have on the end and can I find this fitting at a hose shop?
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Old July 8th, 2010, 11:15 PM
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Which union is stripped?
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Old July 8th, 2010, 11:16 PM
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Hang tight...will post a picture.

------ Follow up post added July 8th, 2010 08:20 PM ------

Here's a photo.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/defender90/4775728523/
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  #6  
Old July 8th, 2010, 11:28 PM
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Ok this is probably not even "ron good" but you can cut the rubber hose, pry/cut off the clamped metal end and refit it with a hose clamp -- perhaps replacing the entire rubber length with this method. Proper repair would be to replace the whole rubber line after cutting it and cut replace the metal fitting on the metal and reflare the end of the metal line.

Based on how clean it looks though, I bet you can get it off without cutting it and maybe retap the metal end (yes -- probably not even ron good, but I have done it successfully on brake lines so ....)
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Old July 8th, 2010, 11:45 PM
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LOL, I am far too obsessive-compulsive for "Ron good" so it looks like I'm going to be calling ECR tomorrow for some SS brake lines shipped overnight (if they have them in stock and will mail order them ), plus a new hose if I can find one.

------ Follow up post added July 8th, 2010 08:46 PM ------

Bad news part 2: it's the return line so I have a longer line to deal with.
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Old July 8th, 2010, 11:54 PM
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Oh well, at least it will be upgraded! Even though it is stainless, I still use a bit of antiseize on the threads and then spray over the connections with clear waxoyl once it is all together.
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Old July 9th, 2010, 12:32 AM
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All this hassle, just to install a Dixon-Bates tow jaw on the rear crossmember.
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  #10  
Old July 9th, 2010, 08:07 AM
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Chris have you used vicegrips on the rubber side nut? It's hard to tell but the hard line side nut doesn't look rounded to me. I'd do repeated treatments of pb blaster and try again. But I see no need to damage or replace the hard lines. Replace the rubber ones if anything.
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Old July 9th, 2010, 09:21 AM
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I second Charles' idea...vise grips are almost always the answer to stuck fittings. Also, is it safe to assume you were/are using line wrenches not just a standard wrench? I have found this can make a big difference as well on stubborn fittings
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Old July 9th, 2010, 09:38 AM
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Well, I'm going to have to figure out something. Holly at ECR says that they don't sell the tubes mail order and Classic Tube has a three week backlog.

I did try vice grips on both sides of the connection to no avail. When I spin the union nut, it feels tight, then loosens, then feels tight again, etc. That's why I think it is stripped.

I was thinking that--since it's the return line--I could just cut the rubber and cut the steel, then flare the steel and just hose clamp a new rubber line onto the flare. However, that doesn't help mr up by the fuel pump where the rubber line uses another union fitting.

I'm stumped.

------ Follow up post added July 9th, 2010 06:39 AM ------

I was using standard wrenches. Didn't know about line wrenches.
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  #13  
Old July 9th, 2010, 09:51 AM
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Try two vice grips with a helper prying a screwdriver inbetween them. This should put pressure on the nut to engage some threads and work the nut off instead of spinning.
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Old July 9th, 2010, 09:52 PM
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Ok, I've tried everything on this fitting and it's just not coming apart. I'm certain that the threads are stripped too badly. So, I need to cut the hose and replace the entire fitting and I need a little more help:

I need a fitting that can join the (5/16?) steel tube with the hose. I've searched around and I can't find a fitting that joins both tube and hose. I think that means an AN fitting on the hose side and an olive/union fitting on the tube side? What do you call such a fitting and would I buy one?
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  #15  
Old July 10th, 2010, 07:09 AM
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Chris, you can cut the metal line right at the union and then just get a new brass fitting with nut and olive. You do not need to flare it. Any hardware store sells that stuff.
Then cut the rubber side and slide it onto the new fitting with a hose clamp..

The classic tube line takes a good 3 weeks to get..
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  #16  
Old July 10th, 2010, 10:27 AM
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Thanks, Randy. I found a fitting at the auto parts store last night but the thread pitch didn't match up with the union nut. I'm going to go out to NAPA and see if they have some better stuff.

I don't feel so bad about cutting the rubber hose now; I dropped the tank and the fittings on top of the fuel pump were completely rusted and needed replacement anyway.
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  #17  
Old July 12th, 2010, 12:42 PM
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Thanks for the help, everybody. I cut the stripped-out fitting off of the return line rubber hose and the hardline. I flared the return hardline. I found some marine grade fuel hose at West Marine and I'm running that between the hardline and cut hose, with a short piece of flared hardline in between the two hoses to connect them. Everything's clamped down with some stainless steel clamps I picked up from McMaster.
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  #18  
Old July 12th, 2010, 12:58 PM
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"ron good"
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Old July 12th, 2010, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
"ron good"

Sure, but would you have bothered to go with stainless steel T-clamps?
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  #20  
Old July 12th, 2010, 03:34 PM
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Cut the metal fuel line back a little (they look nice and rust free, so should be easy). Then use a new compression fitting (nut and olive) and it will all be good as new.
Part #s
NRC9770 and NRC9771

Now that the rubber line is cut you'd need a new one of those as well.
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