Help! Cant get the key to turn over - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 26th, 2012, 02:09 PM
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Rod Renfrow
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Help! Cant get the key to turn over

Help!
I took off work today to go camping in the Defender and I can't get the key to turn over so I can start it. It's always been a little tricky, but has never taken me longer than 5-10 seconds to turn ignition. I've been messing with it for 1 hour now!
Any advice?
Thanks
Rod
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  #2  
Old October 26th, 2012, 02:11 PM
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Shoot spray grease or oil into the cylinder. If you have no such stuff around, pull out the dipstick and put oil on the key off the dipstick and try it again. I assume you have not locked the steering wheel? If so, pull the wheel really hard whilst trying to turn the key.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 02:12 PM
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Rod Renfrow
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Yes the wheel locked while I was jimmying it.
Would powdered graphite be better. I have some of that too!
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  #4  
Old October 26th, 2012, 02:29 PM
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Rod Renfrow
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I sprayed some lithium grease in there but it still won't turn. It doesn't seem seized up but it just spent turn. Any more ideas. Thanks
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Old October 26th, 2012, 03:08 PM
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Did you try both sides of the key (ie flip it upside down and to it again)? Did you try yanking really hard on the wheel to unlock it? Worst case you have to take everything apart and hotwire it and remove the steering lock.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 03:08 PM
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I guess you could take out the 2 sheer bolts, remove the key mechanism and hotwire the truck.

You need to wire 2 of the ignition wire (white) and current wire (brown) together and touch with the starter wire (red-white I think) to get it to start and then put a tape on it so it wont touch again while you drive home. But someone should double check the color scheme before you do it.
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Old October 26th, 2012, 03:15 PM
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Joshua
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maleger View Post
I guess you could take out the 2 sheer bolts, remove the key mechanism and hotwire the truck.

You need to wire 2 of the ignition wire (white) and current wire (brown) together and touch with the starter wire (red-white I think) to get it to start and then put a tape on it so it wont touch again while you drive home. But someone should double check the color scheme before you do it.
After removing the key mechanism, you could also just simply remove the end of the ignition switch (those two tiny little screws) and turn the ignition swich over with a screwdriver and be on your way...right?

I would still continue to try to pull down (Ron are you saying pull out as well?) like a mother **** on the left side of the wheel (if I recall) if it's locked in really hard.
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  #8  
Old October 26th, 2012, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotroddef90 View Post
Yes the wheel locked while I was jimmying it.
Would powdered graphite be better. I have some of that too!
DO NOT DO THE GRAPHITE !! It will cause more problems. The "column lock/wheel lock", You must turn the wheel enough (slightly) to relieve the pressure (binds) that it puts on the lock cylinder.

Does the key come out of the ignition ?
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  #9  
Old October 26th, 2012, 11:14 PM
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I don't know what year your truck is but the 97s have a ignition lockout on the break switch and the transmission ( break has to be depressed and transmission has to be in park). Could be one of those is gone or out of adjustment. Had some problem with mine when I first got it.
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  #10  
Old October 27th, 2012, 09:48 AM
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I had this problem in an RRC. One of the tumblers in the lock cylinder had developed a burr and was hanging up and not dropping into position when the key was inserted. Fortunately RoadsideRob was able to get me going again in short order. The quick solution was pull the offending tumbler out and re-assemble. The better ... have plenty of time solution would be to try to file down the burrs and put the bad tumbler back into operation.
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  #11  
Old October 27th, 2012, 04:51 PM
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Rod Renfrow
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Thank you all!
I Took the the range rover instead. I will work on it when I get home Sunday and update.
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