HELP!!! Broken Door Top Stud!!! - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 28th, 2007, 05:39 PM
JBOD77
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Jonathan
1995 D90 ST Beluga Black
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Exclamation HELP!!! Broken Door Top Stud!!!

OK so I'm in the garage changing the sh***y old factory window studs to the stainless ones. All is going well. On the last stud on the last window the vice grips tense up and in the blink of an eye....SNAP. It's maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the old stud stuck in the thread. I have a broken bolt remover but I would need to take the bottom of the frame apart to get in there. Hopefully somebody else have done this and I don't have to buy a window frame PLEASE HELP. Fall is finally here and I'm gonna freeze my ass off.

Follow-up Post:

I can't believe this has never happened to anybody but me.....I'm so lucky I think I'm gonna run out and buy a lotto ticket...Better yet, maybe I should save my money for a new door top!
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  #2  
Old October 28th, 2007, 08:03 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Jonathan, you'll need to drill a hole in the center of the broken off bolt, and use an easy out to back it out. Worst case you'll have to drill it out to size and tap it, but the easy out should do it. liberally dose it with PB plaster beforhand (and multiple aplications - like daily - if you will be waiting a few days before doing it).
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  #3  
Old October 28th, 2007, 09:16 PM
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Jonathan
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Well, here's were it gets a little worse. I drilled out a small hole in the stud where it broke off. Sprayed the sh*t out of it with PB. Attempted the use use of an easy out and the easy out snapped off as well. Access from the bottom side is now gone. I'm starting to think I 'm gonna have to take the entire frame apart. Which of course I have no Idea how to do. Funny thing is I used that very same easy out 4 other time the same day with no problems whatsoever.
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  #4  
Old October 28th, 2007, 09:55 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Ouch! Although tougher metal, the easy out can be drilled out too, and you can try again...
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  #5  
Old October 28th, 2007, 10:44 PM
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Jonathan
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how can i get a rod into that tiny little space. Welding was something I thought of but access is so limited??!?!???!!
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  #6  
Old October 28th, 2007, 10:46 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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You should be able to grab the easy out and twist it clockwise to get it out, then at least you are back to problem 1.
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  #7  
Old October 28th, 2007, 10:49 PM
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Jonathan
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broken off flush it was just the tip of the easy out the broke in there. I'll try drilling it out tuesday but I know that's not gonna be easy
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  #8  
Old October 28th, 2007, 11:13 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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How much of the stud is sticking out? Can you get one of these on it?
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  #9  
Old October 29th, 2007, 06:55 AM
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Jonathan
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Andrew,
The thing is, NONE of the stud is sticking out. It's broken off inside the threads. Inside of the window frame. My best bet was the easy out, which screwed me. Now I have to try to drill throught the easy out. I guess
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  #10  
Old October 29th, 2007, 07:17 AM
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Charles Galpin
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It sounds like that's your only choice at this point. But use a smaller easy out (or larger hole) next time so you have more surface area in contact with the bolt and hopefully the easy out won't break.

My biggest fear when working on these trucks is what will break (usually something rusted) while you're fixing something else.

charles
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  #11  
Old October 29th, 2007, 10:18 AM
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I'd take it a machine shop who could very accurately drill out the broken stud and retap the hole for you.
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  #12  
Old October 29th, 2007, 05:11 PM
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Derek Johnson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KevinNY
I'd take it a machine shop who could very accurately drill out the broken stud and retap the hole for you.
Best advice of the thread! That easy-out is made of steel similar to what drill bits are made of. It will take an act of congress to drill through that thing with a hand drill, and you run the risk of just making things worse. You really need a quality drill press to accomplish this without further damage. Just take it to a machine shop and let the pros deal with it. Shouldn't cost more that $20-30.

We went through this same type of ordeal on my brother's '90SW. When replacing the water pump, a bolt snapped off in the timing cover. We tried an easy out but ended up with the same results as you. The machine shop saved him from having to buy a new front cover for a total cost of $20.

Just $.02 from an uncertified rover hack mechanic.
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  #13  
Old October 29th, 2007, 06:04 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Yes this is excellent advise. I sure hope in NY you can get it done at a reasonable rate though - around here you can't get a hello for $20 from a machine shop.

charles
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  #14  
Old October 29th, 2007, 06:49 PM
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I second the machine shop for drilling it. THey will do it with ease
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  #15  
Old October 29th, 2007, 11:26 PM
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Jonathan
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Machine shop is excellent idea.....haven't had the chance to try anything yet....long day at work, then the hockey game GO RANGERS!!! Will have to try to find someone qualified. Kinda like the time the drill bit snapped off in the rivnut what a PITA.
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  #16  
Old October 30th, 2007, 11:52 AM
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Jeff Sommer
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I have the same problem right now!

I drilled mine out but ended up drifting off to the side so I could not re tap it. I then took the whole window apart and removed the glass. It turns out that the aluminum box is all one piece so it does not help access the area to weld or reach with pliers. But as it turn out the bolt shaft screws into a M8 1.25 nut insert into the aluminum box. I was able to drift out the nut insert with the broken shaft in it. I have order some different part from McMaster to replace the insert. I can take some pictures if you would like.


McMaster part #'s that i will try. I have not found a direct replacement anywhere.

91230A251

97217A461

94020A391
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  #17  
Old November 1st, 2007, 01:21 PM
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Jeff Sommer
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Here are some pictures that i took

I should be getting my parts from Mcmaster today.
picture of window frame with out window
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...0/IMG00023.jpg

hole for nut insert under window slide
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...0/IMG00018.jpg

picture of drifted out nut insert
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...0/P1010316.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...0/P1010315.jpg
http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...0/P1010314.jpg


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  #18  
Old November 5th, 2007, 11:26 AM
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Jeff Sommer
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Well none of the Mcmaster parts were a drop in

but i modified a M8 t weld nut so that it fits. I cleaned out the hole and roughed up the surface of the nut and glued it into place. I drifted it into position and then I screwed a window stud into it so that it was pulled all the way down. I made up an extra one for you if you would like it. Here are some pics.

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...0/IMG00025.jpg

http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x...0/P1010323.jpg


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