HELP 94 d90 will not start - Page 3 - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #41  
Old January 8th, 2005, 05:52 PM
ripp2002's Avatar
ripp2002
Status: Offline
L C
94 Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IL
Posts: 110
I am looking just in general. Custom drive shafts usually are better then stock. Lighter more durable? As for the rear end. With the noise it was making, if it is not covered by LR I might be shoping for a new one instead of having it rebuilt. Depending on cost. So I was wondering prices and options. I would like something durable and dependable. (might need something other then a defender. LOL). So I wanted to know if aftermarket would be better then the regular land rover parts. I do not know about aftermarket parts etc... who is good for this vehicle. So that is why I was asking. I just want to know my best options at this point.

Thanks again,
Larry
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #42  
Old January 8th, 2005, 07:38 PM
evilfij's Avatar
evilfij
Status: Offline
evilfij
I have never seen a rover in person
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: on the internet
Posts: 14,688
Chris engine install went fine, but that is a 110. I need a softtop, err no top, for summer Hope you are enjoying the red one!

Ripp: The rebuilt driveline is likely the problem as far as noise. If it is the rear end, you have to figure out what in the rear is bad, ring and pinion, diff, wheel bearings, etc. At this point I would replace with stock parts to get it right and then you can upgrade.

I suggest you take the truck to someone who really knows them. It sounds to me as though it has had some hacked work done in the past.

The other thing that really concerns me is that it flooded again. There sounds like there is still an issue there.

Ron
__________________
*not legal advice*
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old January 9th, 2005, 12:14 AM
RoverChic's Avatar
RoverChic
Status: Offline
D-90 Source P.I.
02 D2, 13 E350 AMG, 11 Ford F350
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: DFW, Texas
Posts: 342
I am so relieved to hear this is resolved for you (sort of) !! See persistence pays off in the long wrong! LOL!

I was once there at your point with my Disco! I had every sensor known to man pulled off that truck in the absolute desperate attempt to make him start ....The neighbors stared in awe as I cussed extreme crass profanities (some never heard before) all while sitting literally on top of the engine! I finally gave into Lucas and had it towed to the shop ..That was a real low point for the truck and I. I am ashamed to say it was the fuel pump. However there were some positive things that arose from the aforementioned incident.. I now know a vast amount about "no start" issues!

As mentioned by Ron, you still might want to resolve the *possible* engine flooding. Watch to see if the CEL comes on at all, and if so write down the codes. Maybe new injectors would help alleviate this issue? Keep us posted Larry, I too am eager to see how this D-90 Drama plays out!
Quote:
Hard to meet chics in a 87 ford ranger,
Naa, we dig dudes in Rangers!!



LOL Chris that was funny. It would be like one of those camps for dysfunctional rovers! Ron could offer a money back guarantee or @ least some ADD medication for when the rover throws another attack or has a ‘break down’.
__________________
Quote:
I bought the diamonds myself so I would not have to say thank you to anyone.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #44  
Old January 9th, 2005, 01:19 AM
pendy's Avatar
pendy
Status: Offline
jim pendleton
89'd90
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: andover, ks usa
Posts: 2,341
Quote:
Originally Posted by RoverChic
. Maybe new injectors would help alleviate this issue? .
She might be on the right track here. I would have the injectors looked into and find a competant shop. Just one shop. The work gets convoluted when there are to many chefs in the kitchen. Get involved in the repair operations involved on your truck. Ignorance is bliss. Don't be afraid to lay underneath it and make some obsevations. You could even snap a few pictures and ask questions here.
It seems like there is a reason the thing was sold. A lot of ongoing issues seem to be croping up here. If you can stick it out I think you will be happy in the long run when everything works like it should. Many here have been through the same thing.

Good Luck.
JP
__________________
legend in my own mind

Advice is only as good as the person applying it--
Don't make me give you bad advice!

Lemons or lemonaide, whatever your taste provides.
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old January 9th, 2005, 08:50 AM
scoloco's Avatar
scoloco
Status: Offline
Scott
'94 D90 ST
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Manchester NH
Posts: 372
new driveline

Tom Wood makes drive shafts - I'm pretty sure for Land Rovers also.
http://www.4xshaft.com
Reply With Quote
  #46  
Old January 9th, 2005, 02:19 PM
brianbonner
Status: Offline
Brian Bonner
1994 Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Basin Montana
Posts: 24
Thumbs up

I cannot remember what size lift you have but at 3" you should change the rear d/s for a double cardon. and yes tom woods also makes them. and if you go to the forum on specials adventure 4wd sells them. But if things are the same since last time I checked great basin rover is cheaper. in the 400.00 range


A whole new axle? If you are referig to the ring and pinion I would not know where to get a whole unit other then macnamara. macnamara makes them with 2 different types of lockers. If your going to mess qwith the rear diff I would go ahead and install a locker. An ARB or detroit(which I didn't like) this will replace the weak carrier in the LR diff. My axles have over 200K on them. If you don't spin your tires wildly, like many offroaders do, then you should be fine.

If your talking about a whole axle housing change, I would recommend D110 axles. They are comparable to Dana 60s. But you will loose clearance due to the bigger diff housing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ripp2002
I am looking just in general. Custom drive shafts usually are better then stock. Lighter more durable? As for the rear end. With the noise it was making, if it is not covered by LR I might be shoping for a new one instead of having it rebuilt. Depending on cost. So I was wondering prices and options. I would like something durable and dependable. (might need something other then a defender. LOL). So I wanted to know if aftermarket would be better then the regular land rover parts. I do not know about aftermarket parts etc... who is good for this vehicle. So that is why I was asking. I just want to know my best options at this point.

Thanks again,
Larry
Reply With Quote
  #47  
Old January 9th, 2005, 07:12 PM
ripp2002's Avatar
ripp2002
Status: Offline
L C
94 Defender 90
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: IL
Posts: 110
I am not sure how many people have worked on the truck in the past. I only have receipts for the Land Rover repairs and upgrades. The person I bought it from seemed honest, I think somehow it was a screw up by the Rover Tech. Maybe just trying to work quicker. I dont know. My mechanic is usually right on the ball. But has not really done anything for this truck. No need until now. He has done mods to 4x4 in the past and seems to know quite a bit. Either way, I should will be speaking to LR in Utah tomorrow and see what they have to say about the warranty.

The lift is a 2.5 inch with ole emu stuff. So ill look into those drive shafts as an upgrade.

The injectors were looked at by the guy in Chicago. However for all I know he doesnt know his nose from my ass. I simply do not know the level of mechanic he is. My brother took his thunderbird to him about 2 years ago due to engine problems. The guy didnt charge him anything for all the work he started. He simply informed him of a recall on a certain part and within a couple weeks ford put a entire engine in for free. That is about all with him. But he "did look" at the injectors and says there was no problem.

Is it worth it to get a larger size injector for more horses? Or is that just not needed? Probable hurt the mileage even more. Off to bed now, still hung over from last night.

Thanks again guys,
Larry

Follow-up Post:

One more quick question. With a locker in does that cut down on the highway driving or speed? Meaning I like taking trips to chicago and Florida. So I want the truck to be dependable on the highway.

Thanks again,
Larry
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old May 27th, 2005, 12:52 AM
jcasteel
Status: Offline
John Casteel
1961 Series IIa
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 45
Larry did you ever get your starting issue resolved? I think the last I read you were still getting flooded. I have what sounds like the same thing going on with my '95. I had considered a flooded engine but assumed that the gas would leak down overnight. So, off with the plugs for an inspection.

Before stumbling on your post I had decided that it is narrowed down to the coil or a weak fuel pump. Lots of good diagnostic info in your thread so I'll print it off and use it after checking for fouled plugs or gas in the cylinders.

Otherwise, I hope you got the problems resolved.

John
__________________
1961 Series IIa 24100020a
2010 Surly Steamroller
1995 Red D90 (Sold)
Reply With Quote
  #49  
Old May 27th, 2005, 01:52 PM
stevewhitaker's Avatar
stevewhitaker
Status: Offline
Stephen Whitaker
1994 D-90
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Bruceville, Indiana
Posts: 145
Registry
Larry, ARB lockers you will not affect your highway driving at all. ARBs act as normal open differentials until you hit the switches that engage them. As Brian said, it is one good option if you are looking into changing your differentials. Other differential lockers offer different strengths and weaknesses. Once you check them out you can decide what you want to do. Great Basin Rovers and others have some nice summaries of the differential options available for Land Rovers.

By the way, I had the same problem with starting that you experienced. My engine was getting flooded easily when in wet conditions. I have been very careful about my starting procedures (don't touch the gas pedal) and so far have not had any recurring problems - - of course I'm not in the wet season anymore either. I'd be greatly interested in hearing what you find out about the source of your flooding problems.
Reply With Quote
  #50  
Old July 17th, 2005, 04:53 PM
milli's Avatar
milli
Status: Offline
Michael D. Milliken
9590SW
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Poopiter, FL
Posts: 167
Help-
'95 90 will turn over but not start.
I removed the fuel line from the tank side of the fuel filter. No fuel comes out when I turn the ignition to #II or #III.

PS I also tried swapping the relays on the ECU and Fuel Pump and replacing the Fuel filter fuese.

Advice appreciated. (unless you are going to say I need a new fuel pump!)
Thanks,
Mike

Follow-up Post:

PSS-
I have not started the truck since May.
Reply With Quote
  #51  
Old July 17th, 2005, 07:32 PM
Mike Hippert's Avatar
Mike Hippert
Status: Offline
D-90Slut/Stalker,SNLPres
94 D-90 Grinding Rover
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Manchester NH USA
Posts: 4,789
Been a while Michael, you should be able to hear the pump come on in the on position (the position the key is in when the engine is runnning), pull fuse # 20 (bottom right) and replace it with a good 7.5 amp fuse and retry (been a few times the fuse looked OK but was toast). Swapping the relays back and forth doesn't do much good as one relay powers the ECU and the fuel pump relay is turned on and off by the ECU. But you should be able to hear the fuel pump relay click on when you turn the key to ON then it will click off about 20 seconds later.
__________________
Don't forget to
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old July 18th, 2005, 04:48 PM
milli's Avatar
milli
Status: Offline
Michael D. Milliken
9590SW
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Poopiter, FL
Posts: 167
Thanks Mike. I switched the fuse and I can't hear anything switch on or off, so I ordered a new set of relays. Hopefully, that will be it. Seems like there should have been some type of symptoms before the fuel pump would just quit.
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old July 18th, 2005, 06:12 PM
Mike Hippert's Avatar
Mike Hippert
Status: Offline
D-90Slut/Stalker,SNLPres
94 D-90 Grinding Rover
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Manchester NH USA
Posts: 4,789
Sometimes there is, and sometimes they just go without any warning. Let us know how the relays work out!
__________________
Don't forget to
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old July 19th, 2005, 10:00 AM
jcasteel
Status: Offline
John Casteel
1961 Series IIa
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 45
You might also check the wiring to the fuel pump. Some here have posted about wiring problems between the relay and the pump.

Also check that the inertia switch (rollover protection) hasn't tripped. On the 95 it is under the bonnet against the firewall at about the highest point on the firewall. Square plastic holder with a rubber top. switch is under the rubber.

On a 94 it is in with the fuses in the cabin. (I think.)

The switches purpose is to cut power to the fuel pump in the event of a rollover. But perhaps your's tripped accidentally.

Someone correct me if this information is wrong.
__________________
1961 Series IIa 24100020a
2010 Surly Steamroller
1995 Red D90 (Sold)
Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old July 19th, 2005, 12:38 PM
Mike Hippert's Avatar
Mike Hippert
Status: Offline
D-90Slut/Stalker,SNLPres
94 D-90 Grinding Rover
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Manchester NH USA
Posts: 4,789
Nope your right about the inertia switch, it's right behind the fuse's on a 94.
__________________
Don't forget to
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old July 19th, 2005, 02:24 PM
milli's Avatar
milli
Status: Offline
Michael D. Milliken
9590SW
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Poopiter, FL
Posts: 167
I found the switch. Is there a way to reset it?
Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old July 19th, 2005, 02:27 PM
Mike Hippert's Avatar
Mike Hippert
Status: Offline
D-90Slut/Stalker,SNLPres
94 D-90 Grinding Rover
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Manchester NH USA
Posts: 4,789
The red button on top will be poped out if it was set off, just push it in. To test it bang on the stuff until it pops out.
__________________
Don't forget to
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old July 19th, 2005, 02:52 PM
jcasteel
Status: Offline
John Casteel
1961 Series IIa
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 45
You'll have to remove the rubber covering to see the red switch / button. But then that was probably obvious to the casual observer.
__________________
1961 Series IIa 24100020a
2010 Surly Steamroller
1995 Red D90 (Sold)
Reply With Quote
  #59  
Old July 19th, 2005, 02:58 PM
Mike Hippert's Avatar
Mike Hippert
Status: Offline
D-90Slut/Stalker,SNLPres
94 D-90 Grinding Rover
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Manchester NH USA
Posts: 4,789
Didn't know they had covers, mine doesn't!
__________________
Don't forget to
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
first then ask questions later! The loose nut behind the wheel
Reply With Quote
  #60  
Old July 19th, 2005, 03:06 PM
jcasteel
Status: Offline
John Casteel
1961 Series IIa
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 45
Mine has a black rubber condom covering the top of the switch. Kinda hard to get it back on if you take it off.

I hope water never gets up that high in the engine bay. Well unless I add a snorkel and a diesel.

Follow-up Post:

Oh wait, yours is a '94 Maybe only the '95 had the covers. Obviously just one more reason that a '94 is better than a '95. Just kidding.

Follow-up Post:

Whoops. Should have said '95 is better than a '94. Don't I look stupid now.
__________________
1961 Series IIa 24100020a
2010 Surly Steamroller
1995 Red D90 (Sold)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
90, d90, start

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
D90 won't start! rover4x4 Defender Technical Discussions 32 June 13th, 2005 08:42 AM
Rats! Now my D90 won't start. No power to fuel pump jcasteel Defender Technical Discussions 8 March 15th, 2005 09:42 AM
D90 won't start dameek Defender Technical Discussions 1 November 11th, 2004 09:00 PM
Non D90 Technical Question jump start polarity problem dnewman9 Defender Technical Discussions 4 September 6th, 2004 05:39 AM
95 D90 Can't start !!!!! Vadim Defender Technical Discussions 14 July 28th, 2004 03:52 AM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:16 AM.


Copyright