Help 110 Pulls right then left - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 15th, 2015, 06:15 PM
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Robert Davis
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Help 110 Pulls right then left

So today I left twice for Uwharrie, but had to return home both times.

Symptoms: Pulls right about 10 inches on acceleration and about the same left when you let up completely.

Took out shims on the swivel balls that removed play
Replaced a steering U-joint that had play
Adjusted the steering box that had play

When someone moves the steering wheel back and forth cannot see any play in the pan hard rod or track link bushings or radius arms.

Any suggestions?
This is scary at 60 MPH.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #2  
Old October 15th, 2015, 06:19 PM
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Russell
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Sure the trailing arm bushings aren't warn/disintegrated?
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  #3  
Old October 15th, 2015, 06:38 PM
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Robert Davis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Trailing arm bushings warn/disintegrating or perhaps one split off if movement is that bad.
That makes perfect sense.
I do not have new ones here, but we have 2 disco I parts trucks.
Wonder if they interchange with the 110?
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #4  
Old October 15th, 2015, 07:11 PM
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steve
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Disco 1 ones are the same.

When I had a polybush trailing arm bushing fail it had similar symptoms. look at it, it may be clearly disintegrated
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  #5  
Old October 15th, 2015, 07:21 PM
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josh
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Had the same issue and did castor correction bushings and it went away. My truck was +2"
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  #6  
Old October 15th, 2015, 09:23 PM
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Robert Davis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D90user View Post
Disco 1 ones are the same. When I had a polybush trailing arm bushing fail it had similar symptoms. look at it, it may be clearly disintegrated
Looks like the trailing arm arm connection at the diff end are off center (skewed to one side) indicating a worn out bushing.

Will pull from a disco I and get back on the road in the morning...

Thanks all.
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RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #7  
Old October 15th, 2015, 09:25 PM
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Brian
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Thanks all.
Robert - what turned out to be the cause of the problem?
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  #8  
Old October 15th, 2015, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostChord View Post
Robert - what turned out to be the cause of the problem?
Will find out, but not sure yet
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RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #9  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 09:00 AM
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Robert Davis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LostChord View Post
Robert - what turned out to be the cause of the problem?
So my polybush kit showed up this week and this weekend replaced the rear trailing arm bushings.
The axle end was a royal pain to fit.
It was tight enough, but the "genius" who designed the axle end bushings decided to put a small lip that fits over the side of the end of the outside of the trailing arm.
It kept folding over, first on the outside edge and then inside the hole.
This lip is not part of the OEM bushing configuration.
I am of the opinion that if you torqued down on the through bolt, it would seize the sleeve the bolt fits through and keep the bushings in place where they would then tear and disintegrate.
So I tightened them less than full hoping it will be tight enough not to allow the rear axle to twist, but loose enough to move.

So the steering sway is about 95% gone.
Think the remaining swaying is due to the front bushings which I will get to in the future.
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RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #10  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 09:40 AM
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Michael
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Just out of curiosity, what is the air pressure in your tires? Possibly you may forgot to properly air up evenly after a trip? I had similar issue but it seems to be gone after even'ing out the tire pressure.
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  #11  
Old November 2nd, 2015, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DailyDrivenDefende View Post
Just out of curiosity, what is the air pressure in your tires? Possibly you may forgot to properly air up evenly after a trip? I had similar issue but it seems to be gone after even'ing out the tire pressure.
45 PSI across all 4
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RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #12  
Old November 3rd, 2015, 01:10 AM
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Michael
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
So I tightened them less than full hoping it will be tight enough not to allow the rear axle to twist, but loose enough to move.

So the steering sway is about 95% gone.
Think the remaining swaying is due to the front bushings which I will get to in the future.
I would try torquing it down to spec and see if the problem goes away, cheap enough to try.

Tight enough isn't tight enough sometimes specially on suspension components. I am sure we all have a share of story about loose bolts or nuts. Unfortunately, bushings are designed to twist and get mangled unlike some joints ie heim joints or some sort of flex joints that are designed to articulate.
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  #13  
Old November 3rd, 2015, 01:44 AM
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Andy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
So today I left twice for Uwharrie, but had to return home both times.

Symptoms: Pulls right about 10 inches on acceleration and about the same left when you let up completely.

Took out shims on the swivel balls that removed play
Replaced a steering U-joint that had play
Adjusted the steering box that had play

When someone moves the steering wheel back and forth cannot see any play in the pan hard rod or track link bushings or radius arms.

Any suggestions?
This is scary at 60 MPH.

I had this exact same problem on a previous 110 I owned. I made two simple fixes an the problem was solved.
1) The front tires were "toed in" too much evidenced by uneven tire wear. We adjusted the track rod to toe them out.
2) The bolts where the left and right rear shocks connected to the body were loose.


Once we corrected these items the pulling stopped. I also installed an OME steering damper but I'm not sure this had any effect.


Hope this helps.


Cheers,
Andy
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