Heater temp control issue... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 29th, 2012, 08:44 PM
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Geoff
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Heater temp control issue...

So curious on what the experts think (other than I'm an idiot... I already know that ). In the past month the heater temp slider (cable) on my 110 became stuck in the cold setting and have been unable to get heat into the vehicle. I read a couple of other threads about folks replacing the cable sheath and lubricating the cable to improve movement. I happened to be near the local dealer, so had them take a quick look. They mentioned I needed to replace the control heater unit (part MTC5573... between $1400-1700 depending upon source). This seems excessive for a stuck cable. They disconnected the cable from the controller side and fixed it into high so I can at least get heat until the repair is made (it actually gets way too hot now of course, better than too cold as I can always crack open a window). I don't mind adventuring around and taking the dash off and trying to do a fix, but curious if anyone had a sense as to whether it's just the cable, or the control unit (presumably would be more clear when one gets in there). Trying to gauge likelihood of doing more harm than good
Thanks!
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  #2  
Old December 29th, 2012, 10:05 PM
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Jason England
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Cable can be swapped on a 90 from a bike shop cable for a few dollars. I hate mechanics who can't fix shit and throw replacement parts into the mix for stupid money. I don't know the details on a 110 but I'd replace the cable and clean and oil a few parts before letting the dealer insert a 18 inch dildo in my arse!
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #3  
Old December 30th, 2012, 02:02 AM
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The problem with mine was the temp knob mechanism pivot point, would not budge from cold. Used some CRC HD Silicon Spray (WalMart) with the straw aimed it at the pivot point....fixed !
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  #4  
Old December 30th, 2012, 02:27 AM
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cool... will give it a go! thanks for the tip
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  #5  
Old December 30th, 2012, 01:51 PM
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Geoff
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well.... good news and bad news (unfortunately more of the latter). Good news, I was able to smoothly get the dash off to access the temperature control box. Applied silicon spray to the lever and unfortunately didn't help. This clearly suggested it was the cable that was stuck and not moving rather than the lever. This was verified upon a few more moves up and down of the temp lever when the cable broke. Lever now works great clearly the cable has to be replaced. After seeing the box I don't understand why the dealer would suggest replacing the whole box as it's just a stuck/stiff cable that needs to be replaced. Will have to do some more digging on how to fashion a replacement or find where to buy one. I did see clear evidence FWIW of the dealer's attempt to lubricate the ends of the cable and the lever.

So will read around and try to figure out the cable. thanks!

Found a write-up here: http://www.defenderhelp.com/03-heating-ac.html
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Old December 30th, 2012, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverlight View Post
well.... good news and bad news (unfortunately more of the latter). Good news, I was able to smoothly get the dash off to access the temperature control box. Applied silicon spray to the lever and unfortunately didn't help. This clearly suggested it was the cable that was stuck and not moving rather than the lever. This was verified upon a few more moves up and down of the temp lever when the cable broke. Lever now works great clearly the cable has to be replaced. After seeing the box I don't understand why the dealer would suggest replacing the whole box as it's just a stuck/stiff cable that needs to be replaced. Will have to do some more digging on how to fashion a replacement or find where to buy one. I did see clear evidence FWIW of the dealer's attempt to lubricate the ends of the cable and the lever.

So will read around and try to figure out the cable. thanks!

Found a write-up here: http://www.defenderhelp.com/03-heating-ac.html
You've just saved yourself a tidy sum ... Go to a bike shop and buy a length of cable for a few dollars and attach it to the exiting cable cover and thread the new one in as you remove the old. Careful when you cut it to length as you can crush the end. Have a celebratory beer!
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #7  
Old December 30th, 2012, 02:11 PM
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Aren't the inner's of bike cables the flexible cable types (woven) ? And isn't our heater cable a rigid piece of wire inside a flexible housing ?
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  #8  
Old December 30th, 2012, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
Aren't the inner's of bike cables the flexible cable types (woven) ? And isn't our heater cable a rigid piece of wire inside a flexible housing ?
That's correct, it's a solid core wire, but perhaps the woven style will work. Will be a @#$ getting it attached to the end of the lever (may have to take the whole unit out). Also, not sure how easy it's going to be to snake through a new cable as the old one is really jammed in there and not moving (the source of the original issue). A little above my pay grade, but I enjoy a challenge
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  #9  
Old December 30th, 2012, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
Aren't the inner's of bike cables the flexible cable types (woven) ? And isn't our heater cable a rigid piece of wire inside a flexible housing ?
I believe so. I don't imagine bike cables do well in a pushing application.
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  #10  
Old December 30th, 2012, 02:29 PM
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Might be able to acquire a "stiffy" from a lawn mower repair shop.
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  #11  
Old December 30th, 2012, 03:20 PM
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Will start hunting. The original wire is now loose enough to easily pull through after pushing back and forth from the engine side. So just a matter of finding a replacement and then fashioning ends that will connect. Engine side should be easy b/c there's lots of room to work with and a variety of solutions from wrapping wire to attaching a custom head. Inside the heater control box will be a little trickier...
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  #12  
Old December 31st, 2012, 11:21 PM
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So I ordered some bulk conduit (push-pull cable from Wescon that appears to be a fairly similar size to the OEM cable in the defender. Sill need to figure out connectors for the ends, but making progress... maybe an aluminum ferrule, which I saw used on one of their finished products, would be easy to apply on both sides.

http://www.wesconproducts.com/index....&id=4&Itemid=3
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  #13  
Old January 1st, 2013, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverlight View Post
So I ordered some bulk conduit (push-pull cable from Wescon that appears to be a fairly similar size to the OEM cable in the defender. Sill need to figure out connectors for the ends, but making progress... maybe an aluminum ferrule, which I saw used on one of their finished products, would be easy to apply on both sides.

http://www.wesconproducts.com/index....&id=4&Itemid=3
If its a fixed one ... The roadside repair people in the UK used to have a little kit that allowed them to cast them on at the side if the road. They had some metal, burner and various casts. Maybe someone here knows where you can get that done.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #14  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 04:41 PM
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Joe Still
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I ordered 50 lf of piano wire in a gage to match, works perfectly. Absolutey stiff enough to push in a sleeve. I think it was $20 with shipping. Will even take a bend but not easily.

I had to redo my directioanl controls which had rusted to he77 down in the plenum. Best luck. js
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  #15  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silverlight View Post
Sill need to figure out connectors for the ends, but making progress... maybe an aluminum ferrule, which I saw used on one of their finished products, would be easy to apply on both sides.

http://www.wesconproducts.com/index....&id=4&Itemid=3
Does the original cable use ferrules? My truck used the clips to hold the cable sheath, but there were no ferrules.
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  #16  
Old January 3rd, 2013, 12:03 AM
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Geoff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red&yellowrovers View Post
I ordered 50 lf of piano wire in a gage to match, works perfectly. Absolutey stiff enough to push in a sleeve. I think it was $20 with shipping. Will even take a bend but not easily.

I had to redo my directioanl controls which had rusted to he77 down in the plenum. Best luck. js

that's a creative idea, I like it. will pick some up and have a couple different materials to try. you don't happen to remember which note/key the piano string corresponded to do you?

------ Follow up post added January 3rd, 2013 12:05 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
Does the original cable use ferrules? My truck used the clips to hold the cable sheath, but there were no ferrules.
The original cable on the NAS 110 on my setup just had the cabled wrapped in a circle 3-4 times tightly around the connector on each side. a small loop secured by a ferrule should accomplish the same thing and was thinking would be a little easier to do with the type of wire I've ordered (or with piano wire per above).

Btw while I have the dash off going to replace all the dash lights with LEDs from Superbright (same ones I saw listed on the threads here), which I'm looking forward to since most of the gauges are hard to see in the dark.
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