Heater keeps blowing fuses - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old February 4th, 2014, 08:03 PM
El Solis's Avatar
El Solis
Status: Offline
Chris Solis
Camel Trophy 110 sorta :)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 536
Heater keeps blowing fuses

I have a 110 with the standard LR heater. Heater seems to work fine, 2 speeds, etc but after running for awhile (30-90 min) the 10amp glass fuse will blow and no more blower. I have checked the intake for the heater, all clear, no mud in the squirrel cage which also moves freely. Fuse panel seems ok, cleaned it anyways and still the same symptoms. Wiring seems ok (just had the dash apart and checked everything Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1391562220.056795.jpg
Views:	398
Size:	112.0 KB
ID:	89175)

Haven't seen if it only blows on high vs first speed. Any ideas?
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old February 4th, 2014, 09:29 PM
El Solis's Avatar
El Solis
Status: Offline
Chris Solis
Camel Trophy 110 sorta :)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 536
Where's the resistor? I thought high there was no resistance?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old February 4th, 2014, 09:37 PM
the rover shop
Status: Offline
shayne young
89,93 & 95 camel trophy 110s 06 130
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: ft lauderdale florida
Posts: 5,225
Check your amperage draw on it.. Put an inline amp meter across the fuse terminals and check for excessive current draw at the circuit..and then do the same with power straight to the fan.. This will tell you if its in the fan or the circuit..amperage draw should only be about 3/4 of the fuse rating max..I.e 20 amp circuit should draw max of about 15 amps.. You will get an initial spike as it starts up but it should then drop to a steady reading..
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old February 4th, 2014, 10:27 PM
the rover shop
Status: Offline
shayne young
89,93 & 95 camel trophy 110s 06 130
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: ft lauderdale florida
Posts: 5,225
I believe that's a later housing assy than Chris has..that looks like an nas version with the a/c..
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old February 5th, 2014, 12:08 AM
El Solis's Avatar
El Solis
Status: Offline
Chris Solis
Camel Trophy 110 sorta :)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 536
thanks guys! i'll hopefully check it tomorrow. I saw the heater upgrade, looks like it is either easy swap or a PITA. i'll report back once i do the tests.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old February 6th, 2014, 07:19 PM
Dogpilot's Avatar
Dogpilot
Status: Offline
James Wallace
Defender 90 1997 NAS ST
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 311
Registry
Funny, in my 97 NAS the fuse for the heater blower is a 15 amp fuse, same part, I do have AC as well.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old February 6th, 2014, 08:00 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,242
Registry
Measure the amerpage. Probably put in a bigger fuse. The stock glass fuses are not the same as the ones you get in North America.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old February 6th, 2014, 08:40 PM
DannyboyUpstate's Avatar
DannyboyUpstate
Status: Offline
Danny Harrington
1983 110 3-door
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Albany, NY!!
Posts: 395
Registry
Without doing any research and having very little experience with Rovers, a 10A fuse sounds pretty small for a blower motor. I would check the wiring size and match the fuse to that.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old February 6th, 2014, 10:22 PM
El Solis's Avatar
El Solis
Status: Offline
Chris Solis
Camel Trophy 110 sorta :)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 536
Havent had a chance to check amps but my cover shows it as a 10A fuse. I am using british glass fuses (found a stash at a lil mom and pop parts store). Also, i noticed that my multimeter shows 10A as the max amp reading no dc 20A option. I presume this means i need to get another meter that will do 20A right? Otherwise if I am drawing a higher amperage i could blow the fuse in the meter.

------ Follow up post added February 6th, 2014 07:24 PM ------

The smoke release was due to a short between the metal behind the dash crash pad and an extra LED strip i added where the wires got pinched. No probs once this was removed.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old February 6th, 2014, 10:43 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,242
Registry
You really need a clamp on inductive meter.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old February 6th, 2014, 10:51 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,242
Registry
I would just stick a 15A in and see how it goes.

http://www.reedx.net/landrover/maint/fuses/
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old February 6th, 2014, 11:00 PM
Dogpilot's Avatar
Dogpilot
Status: Offline
James Wallace
Defender 90 1997 NAS ST
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 311
Registry
If your meter goes only to 10 AMPS and you have a 10 AMP fuse in place, measure the current and see how it changes, until the fuse blows, it is under 10 amps. Are you absolutely certain that only the heater blower is in that circuit? You can also get a 10 AMP circuit breaker from a Radio Shack like place (cheap one) and clip it in place while you troubleshoot. There are actually two kinds of fuses, slow blow and quick. The blower may get a surge or you could have a voltage drop in the system that corresponds to the blow. Remember as the voltage drops the current increases, ergo why 24 Volt systems can use smaller wires, current is less for a given draw. Also why aircraft favor 24V systems, lighter wire overall. Some meters, like a Fluke 87, will record high & low voltages over time.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old February 6th, 2014, 11:37 PM
El Solis's Avatar
El Solis
Status: Offline
Chris Solis
Camel Trophy 110 sorta :)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 536
This is what's inside my fuse box cover, shows 10A. not sure if this makes a difference but I had a 2.5TD in there and switched to a 200tdi. Nothing was done to the heater box. Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByTapatalk1391747826.066689.jpg
Views:	434
Size:	92.8 KB
ID:	89257
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old February 6th, 2014, 11:47 PM
DannyboyUpstate's Avatar
DannyboyUpstate
Status: Offline
Danny Harrington
1983 110 3-door
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Albany, NY!!
Posts: 395
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You really need a clamp on inductive meter.

^^^ this
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old February 6th, 2014, 11:56 PM
Red90's Avatar
Red90
Status: Offline
John B.
1991 Defender 90, 200TDI
Site Team
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 9,242
Registry
Later models use a 15 amp fuse.
__________________
Pissing people off on the "net" since 1983.

Land Rover. Turning owners into mechanics since 1948.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old February 10th, 2014, 09:24 PM
El Solis's Avatar
El Solis
Status: Offline
Chris Solis
Camel Trophy 110 sorta :)
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Livermore, CA USA
Posts: 536
So i tested things today. On high my meter only showed a fluctuating 2 amps across the fuse and everything ran fine (just cool as the engine was only idling). As I said it usually has to have been on high for awhile (30-90 min) before the fuse blows. Any other ideas?
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old February 11th, 2014, 02:06 AM
Dogpilot's Avatar
Dogpilot
Status: Offline
James Wallace
Defender 90 1997 NAS ST
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 311
Registry
Then it is possibly the fan motor's resistance going up as it gets hot. You can remove the motor and lube the bearings (this works 50% of the time). I do not know if you can disassemble this motor or not, if you can. Then clean the commutator with emory cloth and use a pick to clean out any accumulation between the segments, also check and see if your brushes are not worn to the limit. You can get generic brushes at Ace Hardware (in the wall of many small drawers), and file them down to fit, they are soft carbon after all. You can also check the connectors on the speed resistors. There may be a bad solder joint or a corroded crimp, this increases the resistance when it gets hot.

You can also take the cover off then, take and hold a mirror so you can look at the squirrel cage. Turn off all the lights (in your garage) and run the motor. If the brushes are nearly gone, you will see some light from the gap the brushes have sparking if they are close to the limit.

Failing that, move to a warmer climate. My new truck's fan had never been turned on in a coon's age, it came from Phoenix. I had to reach in the back, turn the motor for a while and it started to turn, faster & faster, then has run fine since (along with a little Tri-Flow randomly squirted around inside it).
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Tags
heater, wing

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The "Increase your heater output" thread Overlander Defender Technical Discussions 25 February 28th, 2012 06:42 PM
Heater blowing cold on passenger side Andrew Vick Defender Technical Discussions 3 October 21st, 2006 05:56 AM
110 Heater Hose Routing newfD90 Defender Technical Discussions 11 February 1st, 2006 02:02 PM
Fuses Keep Blowing boshea Defender Technical Discussions 4 December 13th, 2005 08:21 AM
97 D-90 SW blowing fuel pump fuses intermittantly BarryO Defender Technical Discussions 9 July 20th, 2004 03:07 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:50 AM.


Copyright