Heater fan upgrade in the NAS D-90???? - Page 6 - Defender Source
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  #101  
Old March 27th, 2013, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
If you think you can get a quick response from him, go for it! I don't think anybody on this forum is following any other thread right now! lol
Shot him an email.
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  #102  
Old March 29th, 2013, 12:46 AM
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"Dude in Canada" here.

Just measured up the cage on the motor I got from Jason and it shows 5 3/8 inches across and 2 1/2 inches high. Hope that helps.

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  #103  
Old March 29th, 2013, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by moose View Post
"Dude in Canada" here.

Just measured up the cage on the motor I got from Jason and it shows 5 3/8 inches across and 2 1/2 inches high. Hope that helps.

Brett
Thank you Brett!
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  #104  
Old March 29th, 2013, 03:32 PM
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David Marchand
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I'm about to tackle the PM136 this weekend. The motor is sitting here on my desk. Wondering if I should wait now...
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  #105  
Old March 30th, 2013, 10:16 AM
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David, can you post up the cage measurements on the PM136? I'll try to get PM138 measurements this weekend. The final question will come down to how much clearance is there for cages in the heater cage housing? is there room for slightly wider? slightly longer?
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  #106  
Old March 30th, 2013, 12:18 PM
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Will post up and can tell you as soon as i pull the housing to increase the firewall hole.
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  #107  
Old April 27th, 2013, 10:56 AM
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Update: At this point I've suspended the heater fan upgrade on my truck due to a new development. Throughout the winter, I noticed that my heater fan output when my Webasto is running was always double the flow of the heater running in normal configuration, but I never got around to investigating it. I suspected that somehow, my Webasto wiring install had an error in it and as a result, I suspected that my normal fan circuit was running through a Webasto harness resistor somehow. Well I finally investigated it last week. What I found was that I had wired the Webasto correctly. Let me explain further:

The webasto harness uses a relay to control the heater fan + lead. In normal configuration without a Webasto, the positive lead is fed through the a switched lead running from the fuse panel directly on a 16AWG wire. with the Webasto, the Webasto battery + lead (14AWG) runs to a relay, as well as the normal + switched lead from the fuse panel, and then from the relay to the fan. The webasto bus controls the triggers of the relay. When the Webasto is off, the + feed runs from the Defender fuse panel, through the relay to the fan + lead. That when the fan is running slow on hi. When the Webasto is on, it triggers the relay to closed, and the power flows now from the Webasto battery lead to the heater fan-double the output (running at a normal cars speed). Using jumpers to bypass the relay, I was able to figure out, that it really comes down to the 16AWG factory lead to the heater, just like the factory headlight configuration.

To increase the current flow, I split the Webasto + lead to the relay into two, with the other split going to a 2nd relay and that relay is triggered by the original heater + lead. Now, when the accessory switch is on, the fan gets the Webasto battery lead without the Webasto being on. Tested today on a cold morning, for the very first time, I got hi output heat from my heater, enough to feel a solid burst of air flow hitting my legs through the under dash AC heater duct. With this turn of events, I don't feel I even need a fan upgrade now.

I just wish I had realized this earlier. The bottom line is the OEM heater needs a wiring upgrade just like the headlights, with the OEM wire becoming the trigger to a relay, and the heater receiving a 14AWG minimum direct (but fused) feed from the battery. The results are impressive for very little effort.
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  #108  
Old April 27th, 2013, 11:38 AM
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The stock wiring should not be restricting power to the fan, at least from my own testing. You might have a bad heater switch or something else in the circuit causing a problem.
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  #109  
Old April 27th, 2013, 12:14 PM
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well no problem now!
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  #110  
Old April 27th, 2013, 12:21 PM
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yes! wiring change was post port widening. before Hi speed is now my after Low speed-literally. may be that 16 awg was just enough in a new harness, and with age the resistance increases to sub par
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  #111  
Old April 27th, 2013, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
The stock wiring should not be restricting power to the fan, at least from my own testing. You might have a bad heater switch or something else in the circuit causing a problem.
BTW, in the fall, before this switched positive upgrade last week, I did a full diagnostic on the heater switch wiring (the ground feed through the switch). This included pulling the switch and doing a full cleaning with electrical cleaner on it, as well as replacing the black wire (with 14awg) going from the switch to the heater, and from the switch to chassis ground. After that work, I tested no ohms through the earth circuit on hi speed. so if there was residual resistance it was from fuse panel to heater.

I can say for sure that a 14awg upgrade to both pos and neg leads was a significant performance increase for me.
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  #112  
Old April 27th, 2013, 01:33 PM
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That's good info Mark, thank you.
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  #113  
Old December 10th, 2013, 02:06 PM
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  #114  
Old December 19th, 2013, 07:31 AM
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As an update, I'm going to be doing the DefenderVent install so I now plan on doing the heater blower fan upgrade in the spring. I'll post up then if the Autozone PM137 2 pole blower will fit. Of course, if someone else plans to do this upgrade in advance of that, by all means let us know what part works.
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  #115  
Old March 9th, 2014, 05:23 PM
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Another update. Being so nice here finally in charlotte, I decided to look into a recent loss of blower strength over last 2 months. I suspected heat air was leaking in places. I went to drop the AC facia, and that's when I notice that I left the mounting screws loose, allowing a huge gap around the lower foams seals between AC and heater duct. Ok. So the I turned on my heater with AC dropped and WOW the blower was really kicking with the wiring mod I made previously. I tightened everything up and that is when I noticed the huge drop in blower strength when it passes through the AC. So time to investigate. Examining the actual duct face on the AC, I notice that it is only about a 1.5 inch hole - significantly smaller that the actual heater duct! It was the bulkhead mod all over again. They made it small for that pathetic little square foam seal. So I ripped it off, dremeled the top off to open it up, and added foam seal around it on both heater side and AC side. Huge improvement in blower pressure!
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  #116  
Old September 4th, 2014, 06:22 PM
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Just wanted to add additional info here. Fan PM137 works on RHD defenders. Just had to swap the cage for the counter clockwise fan that was on the car, and wire it up accordingly.

Harrison
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  #117  
Old December 18th, 2014, 10:14 AM
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Mike Barnett
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Mark, did you end up using pm137? I'm about to do this and not clear on which one to buy.
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  #118  
Old December 18th, 2014, 10:15 AM
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not yet take the lead!
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  #119  
Old December 19th, 2014, 10:13 PM
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Mark c'mon man, we can do this. let's make a pact to do all our heater upgrades by 2017?
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  #120  
Old February 18th, 2016, 01:45 PM
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Jeff B
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just started on this wonderful journey...and I gather from John/Jason et al that the bulkhead opening needs an additional 2" to the pass side- correct?

I have a bare bulkhead right now so I want to get this out of the way while it's easy to cut and access!


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