Heater fan upgrade in the NAS D-90???? - Page 4 - Defender Source
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  #61  
Old December 18th, 2012, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefhuf View Post
But relay only solves the on-off, not the multiple speeds, right?
Yes I realized that once I posted it.

Need to figure out why it's getting grounded...you would think after I removed the ground (below) and ran it external that should have taken care of it.
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  #62  
Old December 18th, 2012, 04:39 PM
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We should have pulled mine out for a look see on Sunday. LOL
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  #63  
Old December 18th, 2012, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
We should have pulled mine out for a look see on Sunday. LOL
I've got my old motor, that's not the issue (or any small task getting it out : ).

------ Follow up post added December 18th, 2012 04:45 PM ------

So I'm doing a continuity test using my multimeter...and I was expecting to find some bleed between the power/ground cables and the motor/housing. Essentially I just turned the multimeter to the "continuity" mode, and there does not seem to be any bleed to the blower housing. I was sort of assuming it would be grounding from the case through the power/ground connection cables....but unless I'm wrong it does not seem to be the case.
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  #64  
Old December 18th, 2012, 05:11 PM
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UPDATE: as soon as I bolt the actual motor back onto the mounting plate (shown below in it's two separate pieces), it causes a bleed to the outside of the case. If I loosen the bolts holding the two halves together, the bleed stops. So...must be making contact internally somewhere when it's tightened up. Will continue the search...getting close!
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  #65  
Old December 18th, 2012, 05:26 PM
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FOUND IT! Small piece of insulation (shrink tubing in this case) had a fray in it, was pressing the wire up against the housing when I was tightening things up. Wrapped some black tape around it and good to go! Success!

So...do I even need to bother to write this thing up again .

The real test is before I put things back together I'm going to see if this damn GM is really quicker than the LR blower.
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  #66  
Old December 18th, 2012, 05:41 PM
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Think the upgraded MG heater fan also had a different fan design. At least it did years ago. Fins were much deeper allowing it to push alot more air.
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  #67  
Old December 18th, 2012, 06:16 PM
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My fan ran a lot better (hotter and more air) after I cut the vent hole in the bulkhead to match the heater box and sealed the heater box with silicone
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  #68  
Old December 18th, 2012, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
My fan ran a lot better (hotter and more air) after I cut the vent hole in the bulkhead to match the heater box and sealed the heater box with silicone
Did you cut from the outside (engine compartment) or inside (passenger footwell)? Contemplating this as well...but with a laundry list of other stuff to do (power steering lines, marker/turn signal lights, tie rod, maybe the water pump/hoses/belts....not to mention reassemble the entire wing!) I'm thinking the bulkhead cutout may be a job for down the road.
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  #69  
Old December 18th, 2012, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Did you cut from the outside (engine compartment) or inside (passenger footwell)? Contemplating this as well...but with a laundry list of other stuff to do (power steering lines, marker/turn signal lights, tie rod, maybe the water pump/hoses/belts....not to mention reassemble the entire wing!) I'm thinking the bulkhead cutout may be a job for down the road.

It made a big difference (at least to me). I cut it from the outside using an angle grinder with skinny metal cutting wheel (4") and dremel tool cutting wheel. (the little cutting wheels). I had to order the new sponge gasket (the one that goes between the box and the bulkhead) at Rovers North. It was worth it the cab got hot very quickly, especially when I needed to defrost the windscreen and wanted heat.
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  #70  
Old December 18th, 2012, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil McCauley View Post
It made a big difference (at least to me). I cut it from the outside using an angle grinder with skinny metal cutting wheel (4") and dremel tool cutting wheel. (the little cutting wheels). I had to order the new sponge gasket (the one that goes between the box and the bulkhead) at Rovers North. It was worth it the cab got hot very quickly, especially when I needed to defrost the windscreen and wanted heat.
You had to remove the heater core housing, correct? Are the bolts for this inside the passenger footwell?

I've got the AC unit in place, which I'm thinking may be a pain in the arse to get out of the way to get to the bolts.
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  #71  
Old December 18th, 2012, 07:03 PM
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This is on a NASD90, its different for NAS 110. Yes you have to obviously remove the heater box but its easier to seal the box corners/edges/gaps with sealant/silicone this way. The bolts to hold the heater box do go through the top footwell but I can't remember if its fixed nuts or nuts/washer/bolts. The job only took like 2-3 hours, even quicker if you don't have to remove the heatercore which is what I had to do. I went ahead and changed my heater hoses as well. Then you top off your cooling system. Made a big difference IMO. After you cut the bulkhead be sure to seal the bare metal with rust prohibitor, don't leave bare metal. Cut carefully.
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  #72  
Old December 18th, 2012, 07:09 PM
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I did the opening mod and it was easier than I thought. all the fasteners are accessible from the engine side as I recall. In addition to a dremel, I recommend getting a nibbler from harbor freight. makes it alot easier.
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  #73  
Old December 18th, 2012, 09:49 PM
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It's time to remove the AC lav
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  #74  
Old December 18th, 2012, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
It's time to remove the AC lav
That's scope creep! Trying to stick to the plan...but you may be right. Then I can sell that sucker!
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  #75  
Old December 18th, 2012, 10:00 PM
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Yup and it comes out fast. Someone is looking for the interior parts now (I think Robert Davis)
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  #76  
Old December 22nd, 2012, 05:48 PM
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A/C out! Bulkhead cut!

Amazingly the bulkhead is so clean you could - literally - eat Christmas dinner off of it. Which I actually ran by the wife, but apparently will not fly.
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  #77  
Old December 22nd, 2012, 06:08 PM
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nicely played.
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  #78  
Old January 7th, 2013, 10:18 PM
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Jason, which GM motor did you use? Looking through the different threads I've seen several different parts referenced.
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  #79  
Old January 7th, 2013, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
Jason, which GM motor did you use? Looking through the different threads I've seen several different parts referenced.
PM136, got it at AutoZone...same as here:
http://www.amazon.com/VDO-PM136-Blow.../dp/B000C7OXQI

You have to crack it open and break the ground from the housing and run it external. It fits right in, just need to drill new holes to line up with the existing stud mounts on the heater core housing.
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  #80  
Old January 7th, 2013, 10:30 PM
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Thanks! Did you hook it up for 2 speed with the rover resistor?
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