Heater fan lever broke...in a blizzard - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 6th, 2007, 09:57 PM
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Heater fan lever broke...in a blizzard

brrrrrrrrrrrrr...it's like 10 degrees outside, 40mph wind gusts blowing snow...and my damned heater fan lever broke off tonight. I should have replaced/lubricated that cable this summer but I didn't and now I have no heater fan.

I have a couple of questions...

I found two parts on Atlantic British but I'm not sure which one I want: UTP1125G and STC4849G. I have an early 1994 D-90. Any idea which one I should purchase?

Finally, has anyone modded their fan control to use something electronic instead of cable-based? The cable seems like a piss-poor design, especially up here in these snowy and salty climes.

thanksabunch,

Chris
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  #2  
Old January 6th, 2007, 11:41 PM
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Cable based fan switch? I've never heard of such an animal.
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Old January 6th, 2007, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Cable based fan switch? I've never heard of such an animal.
Really? Hmmm....I *think* it's cable-based. I think that it's this guy right here.

Ok, I just went and checked...it's definitely cable-based. The cable, from what I can tell, goes from the heater fan speed selector lever to the drivers' side of the heater/fan box, up against the firewall. Haha, my bonnet was frozen to the body and took some ice scraping to open it for a look!

At some point, the mechanism goes from mechanical to electrical, so I'm guessing that there is a switch inside the heater/fan box. There has to be a way to wire a new switch somewhere in my cab and control the heater fan from this...

Chris
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  #4  
Old January 7th, 2007, 10:45 AM
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I know a cable controls the hot/cool blend, but also the fan speed?

dig in and let us know!
~Steve
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Old January 7th, 2007, 03:22 PM
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Are you talking about the switch on the right hand side? The electrical part of the switch is definitely right there on the dash. The cable it controls the heater valve so that hot water doesnt flow to the core unless the fan switch is on. Its been awhile since I rebuilt mine, so I'd forgotten.

Here is the summary-
- The far left control is the heater blend control, nothing more than a flapper in the heater box that mixes cold and warm air - this should be the cable leading to the top left side of the heater box.
- The next lever in control the dash/foot vent mix. This cable leads to the lower dash and does not go into the engine compartment.
- The heater fan control is as described above - the cable leads to the heater valve (controlling flow of water) and simultaneously switches the fan speeds.

You need to figure out what is messed up. If the cable is messed up, then you cant get hot water flowing through the core - you need to just reach down to the lower left side of the heater box and move the selector and wire it into the open position for a quick fix. If the fan isnt blowing, you'll need to replace the switch on the dash, but I _think_ you can do that by disconnecting the cable and swapping the switch. Even if you have to replace the whole deal (and you might want to just to have a nice new cable in there) its easy to poke the cable through the gasket in the bulkhead and route it over to the heater box.

I'll dig through the hard drive and see if I can find pix.
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Old January 7th, 2007, 08:42 PM
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Thanks for the reply Jim. That is excellent info. The switch in question is indeed the one on the right hand side. I think I need a whole new assembly because the metal lever (with plastic-covered end) snapped off, probably because the cable was old and corroded. It has been stiff and hard to operate since I bought the truck. I managed to pull the remains of the lever into the full-on position with some needle nose pliers today and I think I will leave it there until I get the new assembly from AB.

Is there any reason to not have hot water flowing through the core? I was thinking about disconnecting that cable entirely and just leaving the heater valve on full-open. Seems like it would provide a little extra engine cooling in the summer and I run the heater all winter long.
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Old January 7th, 2007, 10:59 PM
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Is there any reason not to disconnect the heater valve? I think its best left stock, you will get bleed-through heat even if the fan is off, and the engine comes up to temp slower. Also, a hole in the heater core will deadline your truck unless you can bypass the heater using the heater valve - I would just do the fix right.
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Old January 8th, 2007, 08:18 AM
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Jim, the AB unit is the right one. IF you have to in a pinch, you can just open the flap from the engine compartment and wire it in an open mode with tie wire.. Is the electrical part of the switch still functioning? If not, jump the wires on the switch temporarily to use the heat so you dont freeze out in CA....
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Old January 8th, 2007, 05:52 PM
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Hi Randy - Chris is the one freezing, I'm quite comfortable thank you.
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