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  #1  
Old June 9th, 2008, 12:33 PM
parkcity4x4classic
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Susan C. Daniero
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Heat

Hi Guys,
My Land Rover Master Tech is on vacation this week & I received this email from a Defender owner asking me for help. Here it is:

"I have a 95 defender 90 and the cab becomes very hot - the area arround the pedals gets very hot and the passenger seat between the storage box and seatbelt reciever, seems to blow hot air. It make driving very uncomforable. Have you delt with this issue before? Can you recomend a solution? There doesn't seem to be any firewall insulation - is that normal? Can I have insulation installed to eliminate the heat coming from underneath the truck into tha cab?"

?
Thanks
Susan
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  #2  
Old June 9th, 2008, 01:02 PM
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Robert Ragland
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"Welcome to the priviledges of ownership"

Actually, I would start with the new heavy mat Rovers Down South features for the seat box. This will insulate below the seat better than original. Also, I understand LR now makes a one piece rubber footwell liner, replacing the dinky cardboard over the pedals and foam on the side.
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  #3  
Old June 9th, 2008, 01:15 PM
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steve
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There is the insulation issue....

But the heater may just need to be re-adjusted. If the flaps are not set to be fully closed it will leak heat espicially when up to speed.
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  #4  
Old June 9th, 2008, 01:23 PM
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Jim Cheney
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In addition to the aforementioned items:

If the storage covers on the seatboxes dont have any good foam left, or if its out of place, then hot air will come up from under the seat box. The solution is a combination of ensuring the covers have good sealing foam and that they are properly seated and held down by the hasp.

The owner should also ensure that all original head shielding is in place on the exhaust.

If the cover is missing from the brake pedal housing on the engine side, then hot air will come in there too.
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  #5  
Old June 9th, 2008, 01:54 PM
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Can you still get the rubber pieces for the bulkhead and foot wells?? Is this different than the pieces you're talking about??
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  #6  
Old June 9th, 2008, 02:06 PM
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There have always been a variety of footwell covers available, and some are improvements over the NAS stuff (hell, anything would be an improvement).

Either way, the hot set up is a one-piece firewall, tunnel, and floor cover with a separate seatbox cover, all in heavy insulated rubber. There is an OEM and aftermarket version.
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  #7  
Old June 9th, 2008, 02:54 PM
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Robert Ragland
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The footwell box covers and the seat box mat are LR parts.

You can see pictures of the box at Rovers North, and RDS shows the mat. This mat covers the top of the box, not just the front. This will help with the heat, and should cut out the warm air blowing in. Mine feels similar, and these are on the to-do list this summer.
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  #8  
Old June 9th, 2008, 07:23 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragland
RDS shows the mat. This mat covers the top of the box, not just the front
Any link ? I don't seem to find it...
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  #9  
Old June 9th, 2008, 10:29 PM
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Grab the cable on top of the heater box (passenger side of engine compartment on the bulkhead, and make sure it moves all the way allowing the internal flap to close.
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  #10  
Old June 9th, 2008, 11:33 PM
parkcity4x4classic
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Susan C. Daniero
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Thanks Guys,
I sent your suggestions over & referred him to the forum.
Susan
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  #11  
Old June 10th, 2008, 01:18 PM
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I eliminated the heat issue with a cheap version of Dynamat called Peel N Seel. $89 for 100sqft. It has a reflective aluminum on one side and adhesive on the other. It's about the same thickness as Dynamat. I covered my firewall, transmission tunnel, seat box, floors, ceiling and doors. Heat is no longer an issue at all. Engine and road noise is much quieter also.
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  #12  
Old June 10th, 2008, 01:59 PM
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The heat around the pedals and on the floors is almost always coming from the catalytic converters that are just a couple inches below them. Heat shielding between the converters and the floors is the single best thing you can do there.
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  #13  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 07:50 AM
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Does anyone have advice on how to install dynamat between cat converter and floor boards? Where do you adhere the dynamat to?
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  #14  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 09:01 AM
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  #15  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 09:07 AM
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Real4X4
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Scott, This is another option a ceramic coated manifold that will make a big temp difference than a stock one! Let me know if you need one, selling it for $350 shipped!

Sal
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  #16  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 11:51 AM
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Have they tried turning the heat off ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by parkcity4x4classic View Post
Hi Guys,
My Land Rover Master Tech is on vacation this week & I received this email from a Defender owner asking me for help. Here it is:

"I have a 95 defender 90 and the cab becomes very hot - the area arround the pedals gets very hot and the passenger seat between the storage box and seatbelt reciever, seems to blow hot air. It make driving very uncomforable. Have you delt with this issue before? Can you recomend a solution? There doesn't seem to be any firewall insulation - is that normal? Can I have insulation installed to eliminate the heat coming from underneath the truck into tha cab?"

?
Thanks
Susan
Have they tried turning the heat off ?
Sometimes you need to start with basics...
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  #17  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 11:54 AM
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Heat is off yes.
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  #18  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssi19 View Post
Heat is off yes.
Open the hood and make sure the lever where the cable from the lever inisde attaches on top of the heater box is all the way over to the closed side. Do it manually.
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  #19  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 01:24 PM
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Chris
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Keep the car moving. Stopping allows the heat sink effect to work....

Learnt that driving a Military 109 at an RAF gliding school....We used them for towing out winch cables....
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  #20  
Old June 2nd, 2013, 02:41 PM
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Bill Larson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budzny View Post
Scott, This is another option a ceramic coated manifold that will make a big temp difference than a stock one! Let me know if you need one, selling it for $350 shipped!

Sal
PM sent.
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