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  #21  
Old February 11th, 2015, 11:36 PM
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Relay in position 1 should be the P2512 relay, the other two are the same and go on positions 2 and 3
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  #22  
Old February 11th, 2015, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Id check the trucks headlight plug that you are using, make sure there inst anything elso funny with your trucks wiring.

-Jeff
If they worked pre-harness then it's a harness issue. If Samer isn't sure he can unplug the harness and re-plug in the LR wiring back onto the headlights and see if things are correct.
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  #23  
Old February 11th, 2015, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
May be worth "double checking"....it is brand new in the box (i.e. nothing was touched), but not to say that ARB couldn't make a mistake when things were plugged in/etc (assuming that if the relays were switched that could cause an issue - which I'm just hypothesizing about).
The harness looked new, so no worries there Jason. I will check the position of the relays tomorrow and report back.
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  #24  
Old February 11th, 2015, 11:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samer0214 View Post
The harness looked new, so no worries there Jason. I will check the position of the relays tomorrow and report back.
I put in an email to ARB as well just for input.

As Dave said, do a quick test and just unplug the factory harness headlight plugs and put them back directly to the headlights. That may be a good way just to test and make sure the high/low functionality is correct with the factory wiring and the switch replacement/etc.
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  #25  
Old February 11th, 2015, 11:59 PM
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Sounds good. Will do.
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  #26  
Old February 13th, 2015, 04:20 PM
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I think I've got the issue resolved:

1 - I checked the relays, and all 3 were plugged in properly and in their correct slots
2 - I unplugged the ARB harness and reconnected the factory harness to the lights, to verify proper Hi Beam-Low Beam operation, and everything was good there.
3 - I reconnected the ARB harness, this time though switching the wires that activate Hi Beam And Low Beam respectively, in the H4 ARB sockets, and it looks like that took care of the issue.

I will have to verify this at night when it's dark, when I can better judge the intensity of the beam, but looking at it in daylight, it looks like everything is working as it's supposed to.

I will report later on tonight.
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  #27  
Old February 13th, 2015, 09:15 PM
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My problem is nearly solved now. I've regained the function of the dip-dim stalk, but flashing the lights with the stalk still does nothing.

The blue high beam indicator in the dash lights up at the pull of the stalk, but the lights themselves remain in low beam, they do not flash. I will put a call in to ARB on Monday to help me through some trouble shooting.

Thanks for everyone's help so far.
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  #28  
Old March 9th, 2015, 10:03 PM
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Update: After speaking to ARB earlier this month, they shipped me a new harness, and that solved all of the issues. Not sure if it was defective relays or the wiring harness itself, but all is fine now.
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  #29  
Old May 16th, 2015, 08:27 PM
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Do you happen to have a part number for the harness they sent? I'm in the process of upgrading to LED bulbs and I think I have a bad switch as well. Figured I'd attack both issues at the same time.
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  #30  
Old May 16th, 2015, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
Do you happen to have a part number for the harness they sent? I'm in the process of upgrading to LED bulbs and I think I have a bad switch as well. Figured I'd attack both issues at the same time.
Jon,
A new harness won't fix a bad switch and if you are swapping in LED headlights a new harness is a waste of money.
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  #31  
Old May 16th, 2015, 09:11 PM
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I'm doing both. Currently getting enough voltage to fire h4 bulbs, but they won't ignite the LED's. Running 12 volts from battery to relay to lights should do the trick. Going to replace the switch too. I believe the previous owner was dealing with the same issues.
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  #32  
Old May 16th, 2015, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
I'm doing both. Currently getting enough voltage to fire h4 bulbs, but they won't ignite the LED's. Running 12 volts from battery to relay to lights should do the trick. Going to replace the switch too. I believe the previous owner was dealing with the same issues.
Leds draw LESS power then incandescent. Your hot and negative leads are probably reversed which is why they don't light, or some other ground issue.
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  #33  
Old May 17th, 2015, 01:07 AM
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Tried that too. Was able to get the LED low-beam to work with the switch in the high-beam position. Fuses were a little screwy too. None of them matched up to printed label positions and amperages. Kept blowing a seemingly unrelated 5A every time I'd try to turn them on with the LED's installed. This 110 was converted to a 200Tdi and LHD with TD5 dash on a '83 chassis. There really is no telling what is going on electrically.

LED's will draw less power, but below a certain threshold, they won't fire at all, whereas an incandescent bulb will continue to glow as power drops. Think of a dying car battery with the lights still on. LED's will typically flicker then die once they don't have enough power. Of course, a lot of that depends on how the control circuit is designed. I used to work for a LED flashlight manufacturer. All of our stuff was regulated to give consistent light output, whereas another brand might have theirs designed to decrease lumens as voltage dropped so they could get more run-time.

In this situation, I'd rather eliminate as much of the dodgy LR wiring as I can. Seems like this kit is designed to do just that. Searching ARB USA's site didn't give me anything to go on. Found something on Rovers North that should do the trick.
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  #34  
Old May 17th, 2015, 10:41 AM
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Personally I would rather fix a problem then mask it with an unnecessary upgrade. I suspect you have multiple ground issues with this bit of information and if you where to go through and clean them all your problem would likely be solved. Mine is an 84 that has also been converted to a 200tdi and LHD. I had a lot of weird quirky electrical issues when I first got it and now I have none with the ORIGINAL harness and FUSE panel. I also disassembled and cleaned my headlight switch and solved all the loose connection problems inside the switch.
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  #35  
Old May 17th, 2015, 11:19 AM
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this happened to me, and it ended up being that I forgot to reconnect my frame to t-case ground after doing some work.
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  #36  
Old May 17th, 2015, 12:33 PM
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Just determined there is definitely a bad ground. But, now I get the issue where the high beams are on when the switch is in the low beam position.
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  #37  
Old May 17th, 2015, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
Just determined there is definitely a bad ground. But, now I get the issue where the high beams are on when the switch is in the low beam position.
It is possible that the high beams are only on due to the bad ground. If the ground to the headlight fails the power will travel back through the harness and eventually find ground, in this case it will find it through the high beam indicator light at the instrument cluster.
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  #38  
Old May 17th, 2015, 05:57 PM
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Turns out there were several issues. Bad ground, and the plugs were wired wrong. There are multiple splices that eventually need to be replaced. Still planning on the wire-harness upgrade since that will clear up 99% of the problems, but I was able to get everything working.



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  #39  
Old May 17th, 2015, 07:21 PM
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Headlights suddenly stopped working

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMWTP View Post
Do you happen to have a part number for the harness they sent? I'm in the process of upgrading to LED bulbs and I think I have a bad switch as well. Figured I'd attack both issues at the same time.

Jon: Sorry for the delayed response, I was out of town and didn't have access to internet.

The harness Is the ARB M002. It's a universal harness for the H4 headlights. It's not specific to our Defenders. It works great and a very easy upgrade, well worth the money in my opinion if you upgrade your factory headlights, and will prevent the headlight switch from burning up due to an increased current draw.

I also wholeheartedly agree with you, that although LEDs draw less power, it's a good idea to upgrade the wiring and get peace of mind. The cost of the harness (around $130.00) is insignificant when compared to the cost of the LED headlights and the headlight switch.
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