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  #1  
Old January 6th, 2005, 09:06 PM
rustydefender
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Russell Newton
97 D-90 sw
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Headlamp conversion

I am not quite satisfied with the power of the standard headlights and i have seen conversion kits out there. Anybody have one? Where do you get them? which one is best?
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  #2  
Old January 6th, 2005, 09:13 PM
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Jason Herring
94 D90 ST #1253
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I bought one H4 retrofit on Ebay and it sucked. The housing did not match perfectly and I had to modify it to fit in the headlight ring. Then, I had to adjust the headlights all the way UP so I got decent coverage... to top that, the bulbs were dimmer than the sealed beams!

At least they looked "cool super-white". Ugh. This is the "diamond-cut" headlight upgrade which is all over Ebay.

These are not the HID lights, though, but they were billed as brighter than halogens (xenon). I might try different bulbs, but I am definitely not happy with the housings and they were not a drop-in replacement. I did learn alot about lights, color temperature, etc during this so far frustrating exercise.

Regarding HID upgrade kits: apparently you should get the ones with the combined igniter-ballast - from what I've read, these are supposed to be more reliable.
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  #3  
Old January 6th, 2005, 11:00 PM
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Larry O'Hara
1997 Defender Wagon
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Posted this same ? a while back . . .

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...t=hella+vision

Changed using the vision kits and believe me . . . it is worth it. not only do they perform better, they look better IMO. The flat glass looks cleaner and more euro.
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  #4  
Old January 7th, 2005, 12:07 AM
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thelandroverguy
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Vince
1997 D-90 ST
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I just upgarded to these, Hella H4's https://www.expeditionexchange.com/hella/ they work very well.
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  #5  
Old January 8th, 2005, 02:41 PM
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Peter Sherman
NAS 110
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Wink

I am waiting for my hella e code replacements to arrive. I will let you know!
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  #6  
Old January 8th, 2005, 11:51 PM
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Mike
'97 Defender 90 SW
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I also installed the Hellas and I must say, they are better but not a huge difference. For those of you with Hellas, is the light pattern flat on top in the dim mode?
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  #7  
Old January 9th, 2005, 01:40 AM
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jim pendleton
89'd90
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If I wanted to upgrade my lights or replace them with better units, I would power them through a relay.

I bet painless wiring has a kit to do this.

But if anyone was inclinded. It is fairly easy to do this. Just copy what an add on lighting wiring harness does. Make the normal switch which flows power to the lights become a switch for the relay. Give the new relay a shorter path to power from the battery. This increases the power to the heaadlights and makes them brighter.

JP
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  #8  
Old January 9th, 2005, 09:46 AM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
97 SW
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Umm...sure the power path to the relay is short but the power path to the lights is long. Seems easier to fit the relay close to the lights as the wires are all easily accessible there. Just beef up the wire gauge and you'll get them as bright as possible.
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  #9  
Old January 9th, 2005, 02:26 PM
brianbonner
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Brian Bonner
1994 Defender 90
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I actually prefer the IPF inserts but it seems you already ordered the hellas. do upgrade the wiring and install better bulbs. I use those blue bulbs from the autopatrs store that are for offroad use only. They are great and inexpensive. I believe they are 80/110 but my memory has been better
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  #10  
Old January 9th, 2005, 04:39 PM
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Chris Cox
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Yeah the 80/110's are what I am going with. I think the regular bulbs are 55/60.

Chris
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  #11  
Old January 9th, 2005, 07:48 PM
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Peter Sherman
NAS 110
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ANYTHING is better than the original head lights! If I do go with the 80/110's I will use a relay & upgrade the power! I am doing soooo much to my 110 that the upgrade will have to wait! $$$$$$$
The power supply is a good sugg BUT do it work?
Peter
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  #12  
Old January 10th, 2005, 12:46 AM
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pendy
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jim pendleton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artm
Umm...sure the power path to the relay is short but the power path to the lights is long. Seems easier to fit the relay close to the lights as the wires are all easily accessible there. Just beef up the wire gauge and you'll get them as bright as possible.
Yes. This is correct. But I do not reccomend the alternator as a connection point. The under hood fusebox could be a good source. A shorter path, larger gauge wire and the relay as contact points make the lights brighter.

JP
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  #13  
Old January 10th, 2005, 01:19 PM
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Mike Hippert
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I agree with JP, add a relay. If you are going to upgrade to higher wattage bulbs then you need to! Even at 110 watts you only need 1 relay as you are drawing less then 20 amps. I also suggest replacing the bulb plugs, if they are like mine they are filled with crud and are poor conductors of electricity.
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  #14  
Old January 11th, 2005, 02:19 PM
brianbonner
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Brian Bonner
1994 Defender 90
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Yea do not use the alternator. Someone tried this years ago and blew out the bulbs

Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
Yes. This is correct. But I do not reccomend the alternator as a connection point. The under hood fusebox could be a good source. A shorter path, larger gauge wire and the relay as contact points make the lights brighter.

JP
Follow-up Post:

oh you need relays or you will melt your light switch. IPF makes a kit fo r theirs that should work on hellas it plugs into your existing wiring to use as a switch for the relays. I installed a power block under the hood because I also TRIED electric fans. But I would just run a thick gauge wire from the batteries. like 8 gauge.
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  #15  
Old January 11th, 2005, 04:37 PM
jim_harriger
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Jim Harriger
1997 D90 S/W
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absolutely on the relays. Lori wound up driving our D-90 home a couple years ago with not headlights, following closely behind me in our Disco, in a driving rainstorm. This is because the
headlight switch tried to melt, right after we added the H4 conversions. i was able to fix the switch and add a relay kit from painless, and now it's all good. well, it's acceptable. I had a '97 Rangie, now
there's a set of headlights. around here, the land of the 18hr night in january, i want all the light i can get!
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  #16  
Old January 12th, 2005, 10:56 AM
COSteve
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Steven Reed
93 Defender 110 - #107
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I did the Hella H4 upgrade with the Painless wiring kit and Hella relays. My opinion it is the way to go with a direct connection back to the battery. I ran the 80/100 watt bulbs, and they do put out a ton of light - BUT - The way the NAS 110 enclosure is built, in addition to being a pain to replace lights as you have to drop the front lights, flat panel, and contort to get the bulbs in, it holds heat in, and I kept melting the connectors to the bulbs (the 3 connector plastic thing) because of the increased heat.
I am back to 55/60s. Less light, but they dont fail as often and the heat is less. No melting of the connector. If there was a porcelain 3 pin connector that connects to the bulbs, I would go back to the higher wattage.
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  #17  
Old February 21st, 2005, 07:47 PM
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Chuck Hester
1995 D90
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Burned up switch

Looking for a place to purchase the painless wiring switch/relay direct replacement for the stock unit. I think mine is toast. Thanks in advance!
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  #18  
Old February 21st, 2005, 08:27 PM
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Peter Sherman
NAS 110
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http://www.painlesswiring.com/catalogframe.htm
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  #19  
Old February 21st, 2005, 09:09 PM
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Scott
'94 D90 ST
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
But I do not reccomend the alternator as a connection point. JP
So for someone at a 'one banana level' what do I have to do to hook up power from the fuse box instead of the alternator?
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  #20  
Old February 21st, 2005, 09:19 PM
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Mike Hippert
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The battery, I added a second fuse box for all my aux junk and I ran the wire right to the battery. The battery smothes the output of the alt so there is less stress on everything else.
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