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  #1  
Old December 11th, 2013, 07:41 PM
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Headlamp (and other) Problems

Was running some errands this evening and suddenly had my lights go out after hitting a few raised manhole covers. Accompanying this was an incredibly loud and awful grinding noise. I immediately pulled off to see what exactly the issue was. Checked all fuses, which were fine. Restarted the truck and no noise. I turned on lights and the noise started again. The noise almost sounds like the starter is kicking in when the engine is running. I drove it home fine with no lights on and no noise. I attempted to trouble shoot a little. The lights also came on when I turned the fan on (before making the same noise), which I found troublesome. Aside from the headlamp issue, the truck runs fine. Could this be the light switch or simply wires getting grounded somewhere?

Apologies if this has been covered, I searched and couldn't find anything with all the symptoms I'm having.
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  #2  
Old December 11th, 2013, 08:14 PM
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Any smell of burning from the HL switch?
The electricity is using the fan as a ground.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 08:39 PM
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I did not smell any burning from inside or outside. I should add that the lights do go on for a bit when I flip the switch on. They went off and the noise starts when any load is applied to the engine. The dash lights were also dim (as if the lights weren't on) when the light switch was turned on
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  #4  
Old December 11th, 2013, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FSU_Disco View Post
I did not smell any burning from inside or outside. I should add that the lights do go on for a bit when I flip the switch on. They went off and the noise starts when any load is applied to the engine. The dash lights were also dim (as if the lights weren't on) when the light switch was turned on
The "noise"...could it be more of a loud buzzing than a grinding? A poor ground to a relay can cause a very loud annoying buzzing sound, I experienced this with a poor ground to my lockers relay. Once I sorted it the buzzing obviously went away and the lockers functioned normally again. I know it's a little different scenario, BUT if there is a headlight relay somewhere in the mix this could be the issue.
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  #5  
Old December 11th, 2013, 09:21 PM
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Thanks for that. Should have looked into that earlier because the noise was so loud I didn't think it'd be a relay. Now I notice the buzzing relay under the hood. Guess its a little tough to separate that noise from the noise of the diesel. Guess I need to pick up a new relay and hopefully that'll solve the problem.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by FSU_Disco View Post
Thanks for that. Should have looked into that earlier because the noise was so loud I didn't think it'd be a relay. Now I notice the buzzing relay under the hood. Guess its a little tough to separate that noise from the noise of the diesel. Guess I need to pick up a new relay and hopefully that'll solve the problem.
Nailed it!

Now, before you run out and buy a new relay just figure out which pin is the ground and either follow it or run a new proper ground wire to it. Chances are the actual relay is fine, just a crappy ground.
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  #7  
Old December 14th, 2013, 01:41 PM
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Unfortunately it is also the starter that starts turning over when the lights are turned on. When the alternator is disconnected the starter does not engage, the headlamps do not come on and the dash lights do not come on as they should be. We bypassed the ammeter and still no difference. We searched for bad grounds or connections behind the dash and could not find any wires crossing. We think there could possibly be more than one issue but arent for sure. Any suggestions?

------ Follow up post added December 14th, 2013 01:48 PM ------

Forgot to add maybe the most troubling part. Key in the on position with the power for the glow plug relay disconnected, I turned the lights to the parking light position and the truck cranked without turning the key
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Old December 14th, 2013, 02:19 PM
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Did you just add any lights or anything? Or have you opened up the rear lights? I'll bet the plinths are all corroded and/or you have a rear brake/running wire that is exposed or something like that. My LEDs came wired incorrectly, so in addition to one of my passenger side wires from the main harness having chaffed and fried, my lights were wired in backwards. I have an old thread somewhere where I posted a video of it. Truck would run with the lights on even with no key.
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I am talking purely from an aesthetics standpoint.
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  #9  
Old December 14th, 2013, 02:43 PM
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Ignition switch gremlins. Take a look at the back ... $30 from autozone.
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Old December 14th, 2013, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Ignition switch gremlins. Take a look at the back ... $30 from autozone.
x2 on the ignition switch.

BUT...are you saying that Autozone stocks these???
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  #11  
Old December 14th, 2013, 03:32 PM
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Yep pretty sure they do ...
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Old December 14th, 2013, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Yep pretty sure they do ...
If anyone has a part number or link, post it up...I'd be tempted to pick up one as a spare. Used to be able to get them through PartGeek but last time I tried to order it was b/o and then never shipped & they canceled it.
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  #13  
Old December 14th, 2013, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Ignition switch gremlins. Take a look at the back ... $30 from autozone.
Yup I checked all the same with mine first (I think he said he already did ?) then I moved on to the wiring itself after a new headlight switch and new ignition switch did not fix it. Sometimes when you hear hooves it's zebras and not horses.
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Old December 14th, 2013, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
Yup I checked all the same with mine first (I think he said he already did ?) then I moved on to the wiring itself after a new headlight switch and new ignition switch did not fix it. Sometimes when you hear hooves it's zebras and not horses.
But you should always start with horses ...

Looks like the autozone defender tax takes it to $140 ls1035
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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Old December 14th, 2013, 05:13 PM
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Josh - I a wired in a third brake light when I installed my new door a few weeks ago. Brake lights are working fine. No other light changes aside from that.

Jason's- What symptoms did you have that led to you to replace your ignition switch? On the rear of the switch all connections looked solid, no frayed wires, etc. Were the problems with your ignition switches internal?

This is just so damn weird all this started after hitting a few big potholes
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Old December 14th, 2013, 05:41 PM
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Re-check and confirm everything you did with the brake light as part of your other steps. Considering my issues were caused because of a brake light, and you just added one and are having this issue, it may in fact be a zebra and not a horse.
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Old December 14th, 2013, 05:51 PM
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I haven't had to change my ignition, but my thought is this.

What connects both the lights and ignition together?

You've got current flowing from the light circuit into the starter?

They are both turned on by the ignition switch ...

Have you tried disconnecting the rear brake light and testing again? Maybe you inadvertently connected something you shouldn't have.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #18  
Old December 14th, 2013, 05:53 PM
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Look for any other grounds than behind the dash. Battery to frame, starter to block etc
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  #19  
Old December 14th, 2013, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
They are both turned on by the ignition switch ...
Ok, this is seeming like a possibility. I wasn't aware that the lights also ran through the ignition switch. Do other accessories (heater fan, etc) run through the ignition switch as well? If so, some sort of a short within that could explain things. It's had a motor swap which doesn't have the cleanest wiring setup. No frayed wires or bad connections that I could see after looking over it all day and haven't had any issues in the past. Something related the wiring is kind of the nightmare scenario IMO

All major grounds are fine (motor to chassis, etc). Will look at the reverse light situation tomorrow to see if that does anything.
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Old December 14th, 2013, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by FSU_Disco View Post
Ok, this is seeming like a possibility. I wasn't aware that the lights also ran through the ignition switch. Do other accessories (heater fan, etc) run through the ignition switch as well? If so, some sort of a short within that could explain things. It's had a motor swap which doesn't have the cleanest wiring setup. No frayed wires or bad connections that I could see after looking over it all day and haven't had any issues in the past. Something related the wiring is kind of the nightmare scenario IMO All major grounds are fine (motor to chassis, etc). Will look at the reverse light situation tomorrow to see if that does anything.
All vehicle power systems are related to the ignition switch with the exception of marker lights, interior lights and anything else that works with the key out ... Might include brake lights.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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