Headlamp Alignment - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old March 18th, 2009, 10:26 PM
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John Crouse
'93 NAS D110 (#8) / '61 Series II
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Headlamp Alignment

Ok, here's a nit of sorts. Both the owner's manual and the workshop manual have a diagram for aligning the headlamps. It says to park 4 meters from a wall and align to the dimensions of A (the distance between the lights) and B (the distance from the ground. HOWEVER, neither manual gives a value for A or B. Anyone know what they are supposed to be? I can align the lights, but I think it's a strange ommission.
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  #2  
Old March 18th, 2009, 10:45 PM
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A is the distance between the lights center to center on your truck and B is the distance from the ground to the center of the lights on your truck. B varies on every truck A is a more of a constant from Defender to Defender.

Eric
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  #3  
Old March 18th, 2009, 11:17 PM
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Will
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Here's a good resource: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
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  #4  
Old March 19th, 2009, 07:02 AM
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Charles Galpin
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John, as Eric says, use the dimensions from your vehicle. Are those the complete instructions? In other words is the correct alignment dead straight at 4 meters? I'd like to align mine myself.

thanks,
charles
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  #5  
Old March 19th, 2009, 07:29 AM
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How does one actually do the physical adjusting? Mine are WAY off - my truck has 2 lazy eyes... I've pulled of the black plastic off to expose the screws but there doesn't seem to be a way to position them using the screws that hold the headlamps in (?).

(FYI that link above for me is throwing an error so I can't get to it.)
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Old March 19th, 2009, 07:54 AM
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Charles Galpin
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No need to remove the plastic trim. Looking at the lights, you'll see holes to the side and top of the hole for the headlight. Stick a philips head screwdriver into the holes and adjust - it's just a screw that pushes that side of the bulb in or out. There are two per headlight, I think one on top and one on the side.

Make sure the backing ring isn't broken. I had to replace one of mine as it cracked at the base of the adjuster screw.

hth
charles
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  #7  
Old March 19th, 2009, 12:50 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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If someone needs replacement parts, I have the adjuster rings and new adjustment hardware (clips and screws) still in the package (genuine from the LR Dealer). I will let this stuff go very inexpensively.
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  #8  
Old March 19th, 2009, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stmpede
If someone needs replacement parts, I have the adjuster rings and new adjustment hardware (clips and screws) still in the package (genuine from the LR Dealer). I will let this stuff go very inexpensively.
I would assume I do just from reading Charles' post - I just need to check when I get home. What exactly am I looking for that would indicate I need new rings? Cracks or are they usually just missing? Anyone have a photo or a link? I don't remember there being a collar or ring (could be my issue!)
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  #9  
Old March 19th, 2009, 01:13 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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You'll have to take a look. There is a bucket that mounts to the fender, then a separate "floating" ring. The lamp is sandwiched between said ring and the outer retaining ring. The adjusters hold the floating ring to the bucket and adjust the gap between the two to set the alignment. I bought all this stuff for my rebuild, but my buckets were so rusted that I ended up buying the complete bucket sets with everything, but that was based on the level of rebuild I am doing. For a DD your original buckets are probably just fine.

BTW, afaik the buckets are NLA from LR. I bought the complete new ones made by Wipac from George at RDS if anyone reads this and discovers their buckets are beyond salvage.
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  #10  
Old March 19th, 2009, 01:19 PM
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Charles Galpin
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There is a ring that mounts to the front wing which has the adjustment screws coming out of it. The adjustment screws have little grooves behind the head.

Then the bulb itself is clamped between two rings, and one of these rings has the tabs that fit onto the grooves of the adjustment screws.

As you turn the screw, it changes the headlamp angle by pushing the tabs in/out.

If the first ring i mentioned which is up against the wing has had the plastic crack at the base of the adjustment screws, when you turn the screws nothing happens. If it's broken you'll know it - the headlight will wobble to the touch, and you have probably been honked at many a time I glued mine the first time, but it didn't hold long.

Follow-up Post:

My replacement "bucket" was actually too deep and I ended up cutting it to match the original (both plastic in my case). But it was all the same otherwise. Have a bling crome ring around the bulb on one side now, but you can't see it behind the plastic facia anyway
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  #11  
Old March 19th, 2009, 01:41 PM
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John Crouse
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Headlamps

I replaced both buckets with new WIPAC parts. All of the adjustment parts were badly rusted and buckets themselves were a mess. Took less than an hour and that included soldering new connectors on the headlamp leads. Cheap too.
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