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  #1  
Old September 25th, 2013, 06:04 PM
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Head Gasket?

Hello Gents,

There is quite a bit of oil around the top of the engine. I noticed a little pool of it today. I am assuming the head gasket is leaking? It seems fairly saturated around the area. I found a good step by step on how to replace it from another website but wanted to know if my assumptions were correct. If anyone could say with any certainty yay or nay I'd appreciate it.

Forgot to mention- 2.5 n/a diesel ex mod
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  #2  
Old September 25th, 2013, 06:35 PM
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is that also called a "rocker box gasket"? I was trying to order one and the part number I'm seeing is ETC6438. Second one down? http://rovahfarm.com/defenderengine25NA.htm

Also, any chance this is related to the engine running hot? I know thats a long shot and there could be many things that cause an engine to heat up but I was just wondering if they are associated.
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Old September 25th, 2013, 06:52 PM
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Easy to follow:

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
yes rocker box gasket/valve cover gasket, same thing...-Jeff
To add to Jeff's advice, when replacing the valve cover gasket.
1. Purchase a new gasket
2. Get yourself some black or gray permatex type sealer.
3. Remove the valve cover (as Jeff said adjust valve clearance on the rockers).
4. Clean the cover and scrape off the old gasket (I use thinner).
5. Put a generous smear on the valve cover gasket side that mates with the valve cover
6. Position the valve cover gasket in place
7. Place the valve cover gasket side down on a flat surface like a table or piece of plywood.
8. Put a brick or 2 on top of the valve cover
9. Let the silicone harden
10 smear a coating of grease on the engine side of the gasket
11 Install the valve cover

The gasket should stay stuck to the valve cover, but allow the cover and gasket to be removed as one unit.

Hope this helps.
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Old September 25th, 2013, 06:58 PM
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Okay I read up on it. Pretty simple procedure right? Just unbolt the rocker cover scrape off the old gasket clean the surfaces and put the new one on?

And sorry for the ignorance, but the valve lash adjustment is when you use a feeler gauge and adjust the gaps in the rockers?

Sorry Robert for some reason your post hadn't loaded when I wrote this. Thanks for the step by step procedure, its very helpful. I'll be doing a lot of upgrades and maintenance this weekend thanks to the forum.
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Old September 25th, 2013, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Lash: correct.

And so you can understand how antiquated these things are, First mainstream auto manufacturer to use hydraulic lifters was Cadillac in 1936, the first motorcycle, Harley Davidson panhead 1948.

-Jeff
Haha man thats old- Don't fix what isn't broken I guess
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Old September 25th, 2013, 07:31 PM
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I guess I'll be joining the 20th century when I get around to swapping in a tdi
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Old September 25th, 2013, 07:32 PM
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Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
And just to be clear, you have solid lifters, the technology prior to hydraulic.

-Jeff
Again to add to what Jeff said, they are actually solid roller lifters.
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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Old September 25th, 2013, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
They are solid too!

-Jeff
Right you are!
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Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #9  
Old September 25th, 2013, 08:10 PM
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Also, after you drive for a bit, check the torque on the bolts of the cover--they have a tendency to loosen and cause leaks...
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