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  #1  
Old March 9th, 2015, 08:24 PM
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Hazard & Indicators

Hit the enter before completing the subject...Should be Hazards and indicators...

Today I was working on the indicator lights and replaced the 4 way hazards...everything worked as they should...then an hour later the 4 ways would not come on with the hazard switch, and the indicators would not work unless the hazard switch is in the up depressed position...?

Not sure what all of a sudden happened...is there a separate fuse for the hazards and would that also affect the indicators...
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  #2  
Old March 9th, 2015, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icnsltmfg View Post
Hit the enter before completing the subject...Should be Hazards and indicators...

Today I was working on the indicator lights and replaced the 4 way hazards...everything worked as they should...then an hour later the 4 ways would not come on with the hazard switch, and the indicators would not work unless the hazard switch is in the up depressed position...?

Not sure what all of a sudden happened...is there a separate fuse for the hazards and would that also affect the indicators...
*If* recall, for a ROW truck "up" is "off"...so then the indicators should work in that position. More than likely, you're suffering from the same issue that most of us do - SHITTY hazard switch quality. When you're flipping it down that's the "on" position for the hazards, which kills the signal stalk...but should also be putting your hazards on (which in this case it's not because the switch is crapped out).

Replace that sucker with a Carling Hazard and be done with it. I seem to state this a lot lately since there's a plethora of folks having hazard switch issues, but after messing with mine a bit I ran into the same thing (but wasted a lot of time troubleshooting thinking it was a fuse, or the relay, etc). Nope, shitty hazard switch.

(Shameless plug)...but after being fed up with those crappy Rover switches, I designed a switch plate for the ROW trucks - similar to MTC2640, but made to accept Carlings instead of factory Rover switches. Below is the prototype (one on the right is the ROW switch plate), which I now have fitted to my truck but forgot to take pics (final product will be black powdercoat, and should be available end of this month):
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  #3  
Old March 9th, 2015, 08:40 PM
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Will the switch plate also fit the standard switched such as that expensive courtesy light / dash light switch?

literally just replace that POS hazard switch today...unbelievable...
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  #4  
Old March 9th, 2015, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icnsltmfg View Post
Will the switch plate also fit the standard switched such as that expensive courtesy light / dash light switch?

literally just replace that POS hazard switch today...unbelievable...
So that was the other reason for my changing over to Carlings (besides my hazard failing). My interior/dash light switch was literally being held together by a zip tie. And if I press it too hard shit fell apart and I'd have to pull the panel and reassemble....drove me insane.

I replaced the interior/dash light with a Carling ON-OFF-ON switch (which is the same as the function on the original switch). Up is interior lights, middle is off, and down is dash lights. I now love my life a little more again . Carling even had a little "interior light" legend to put on the switch, which also made me happy as a clam.

Best part? Carlings are like $15-20/ea...and will last forever! After install, I literally sat in the seat and kept flipping them up, on, and off giggling like I was either insane or 5 years old.
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  #5  
Old March 9th, 2015, 08:50 PM
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You don't have that plate on your website...how much is it?, which BTW I now HAVE to buy when I repaint the truck the wing vents and the side vent! Nice stuff...do you powder coat yourself? Any chance on getting several items in Gloss Black?
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  #6  
Old March 9th, 2015, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icnsltmfg View Post
You don't have that plate on your website...how much is it?, which BTW I now HAVE to buy when I repaint the truck the wing vents and the side vent! Nice stuff...do you powder coat yourself? Any chance on getting several items in Gloss Black?
The switch plate is still *technically* in prototype form...but is essentially "done" and will be included in the upcoming production run that I'm working on this month. So by the end of this month, that switch plate (and a bunch of other products I'm working on) will be done and ready to go.

I've got a shop that does the powdercoat (i.e. better quality : ), and generally everything is done in semi-gloss black...but if you wanted gloss black instead I'm sure I could make that happen for you. It may come with a little more lead-time as a custom order, but as long as you're cool with that it shouldn't be an issue.
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  #7  
Old March 9th, 2015, 09:24 PM
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Kool...will let you know when I am ready...
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  #8  
Old March 14th, 2015, 10:27 PM
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Jason
Will you be selling both the ROW and the other style plate or just the ROW?
Al
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  #9  
Old March 14th, 2015, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drdread View Post
Jason Will you be selling both the ROW and the other style plate or just the ROW? Al
Both ROW and NAS. However, and I will point this out later once officially available, but the NAS is a tight squeeze in that spot - so may not be for everyone.

Here's pics of the NAS prototype:
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  #10  
Old March 14th, 2015, 10:47 PM
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ok cool, let us know, I'd def like a NAS style.
Any ideas on pricing and availability yet?
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  #11  
Old March 14th, 2015, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by drdread View Post
ok cool, let us know, I'd def like a NAS style. Any ideas on pricing and availability yet?
Should be ready by end March / early April. Likely somewhere in the $40-45 range for final product powdercoated black.
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  #12  
Old June 2nd, 2015, 12:50 PM
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Ok...new addition is finally complete as a few above had requested. The 3-Carling Lower Dash Switch Panel (for NAS configuration) is now up on the website for ordering and is ready to ship:
https://www.seriesdefender.com/face/...panel-nas.html

Currently this location houses the dash lights dimmer switch (which as the majority of us know, tends to fail in the "barely visible" position). I've been running the prototype of this for many months now, and not only has it been great having visible gauges again...but I've used it to put in a Carling for my roof lights, and plan to put another switch in for my brushguard lights soon).

PLEASE NOTE: this upgrade may not be for everyone as it does require *some* cutting of the vinyl wrapped on the factory dash as well as enlarging or cutting a portion of the metal skin behind the vinyl portion of the dash. BUT many find the change over to Carling switches a worthwhile upgrade, and frankly after years of continuous issues with the dash dimmer switch...going Carling and never looking back has been a blessing to many of us, and we know others will benefit from this upgrade as well.

It is also a big "snug" with the mounting holes, but the decision was made to maximize the number of switches to 3 (rather than going with 2 and having more wasted space).
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