Have: good V8 altnernator. Need: good 300TDI alternator. - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old December 3rd, 2010, 02:13 AM
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Jason Herring
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Have: good V8 altnernator. Need: good 300TDI alternator.

So my Magneti-Marelli alternator on my 300TDI died. I have a recently rebuilt one I grabbed from my V8 prior to my TDI swap which is one of the 120amp models.. so I'd like to use it.

Looking at the housings on these alternators they are an annoying 'mirror image' of each other!

My alternator(s) looks like this:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6...i-marelli.aspx
lol@Rovers North Price: $868.83 are they on crack?

So, I really need to swap the aluminum housing to make this work. I can't seem to find anything online that tells me how this alternator comes apart - the info is probably out there somewhere, but there's so many sights just trying to sell me alternators I gave up looking after a while. I have managed to find some great tutorials on how to disassemble some other series Magneti-Marelli alternators though - just not mine.

I've replaced diode packs before, but not opened/removed the case. The diode swap involved de-soldering, so while it's a PITA I'll do it if needed.

So, do I have to de-solder the diode assembly to take the thing completely apart (thinking yes)?
Is the bearing pressed-in to the front-half of the housing? I hope not...
Just so I don't break something in the process, what are the basics to R&R the clamshell housing?

I read somewhere that you could swap in the V8 alternator into a 300TDI by just grinding off the backside mounting ear - but I don't like the instability aspect of just mounting it with two bolts from the front only... that would put a lot of torqe load on the front bolts wouldn't it?

On a side note... since these alternators look identical, what's different that makes one a 120amp and another a factory amperage which is much lower? Is it simply more windings?
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  #2  
Old December 3rd, 2010, 02:50 AM
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Jamie Austin
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When you say "mirror image" of each other, do you mean one is kind of "left hand" fitting, and the other a "right hand" one? (both front and back lugs line up in one plain, and the remaining front tag is either on the left or right of that?)

If so, then you can change the "hand" of them, just undo the long bolts (usually 3) that hold the front and back casings together.
With a bit of jiggling (you may have to pull them apart slightly, only 1/2" inch or so) to loosen them, you just rotate the two housings until the "other" lugs line up. refit bolts. job done.
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Old December 3rd, 2010, 08:08 AM
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Loic Fabro
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Often the diodes/regulator is just stronger and allow more current out to increase the output. The windings are quite big in the stock unit and can take it without additional cooling.
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  #4  
Old December 3rd, 2010, 11:16 AM
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Julien Dalbin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaherring View Post
My alternator(s) looks like this:
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6...i-marelli.aspx
lol@Rovers North Price: $868.83 are they on crack?
The proline version is at 200$ and something, you can get a new Iskra 100 amps for a little under 200$, it's a drop-in, you just have to swap pulleys.
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  #5  
Old December 3rd, 2010, 02:24 PM
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Jason Herring
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So the way this comes apart there are two different housings - a front half and a back half. I can't see how to remove or rotate the front half (if that bolts up, great!) without desoldering the diode pack True? First you unbolt and remove the back half of the clamshell.. then you can rotate it with respect to the front half (or remove it as necessary) from what I see... but this can't come off w/o the diode pack coming off I think.

See attached for my definition of 'mirrored'. I looked at it and if it rotates and lines up the ears correctly it appears it would work with just a rotation....

If I can increase the output by just updating the diode pack I'll do that to my currently non-working alternator and make a spare. Where can I get, EG, a 120amp diode pack/voltage regulator for this - any sources?
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  #6  
Old December 3rd, 2010, 02:28 PM
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Jamie Austin
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Oooh... actually, after looking at the photo of yours, it looks like it's one piece... although it must split to allow the fitment of the internal gubbins.

Whether it's reversable though, or those two bits are cast and only fit together one way, i don't know.

Sorry for getting you excited
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  #7  
Old December 3rd, 2010, 06:15 PM
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Jason Herring
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Yeah, in photo 3 you can see the place where the case opens and there is a second nut on the same stud. The back half comes off first (this much I've done before), then you half to take off those next three nuts and then ?
I don't know for example if the bearing is pressed in etc.

If everything is the same maybe I should just swap diode packs? The windings/bearing seems fine.
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