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  #1  
Old February 29th, 2004, 12:10 PM
ONDROX
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d l
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hard top removal

I am getting ready to remove my hard top for the first time, and I have downloaded info from the thread. I have just one question: is it possible to remove the entire hard top in one piece?
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  #2  
Old February 29th, 2004, 03:11 PM
Jase
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I assume we're talking about the Fiberglass hardtop. I would not recommend removing it as one unit because the top itself is not very rigid. You're likely to flex the side panels and break it where the side panels attach to the top/roof panel.

Plus, its a lot easier and safer to store while its apart.
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  #3  
Old February 29th, 2004, 08:27 PM
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Jan Jurgielewicz
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hard top

Hi,
Where is the info to download, I'm getting ready to take mine off and have no idea what to do..

Could someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks,

Jan
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  #4  
Old February 29th, 2004, 08:32 PM
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Chris von C
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http://www.defendersource.com/tech/f...p_install.html
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Old March 1st, 2004, 09:28 AM
ONDROX
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d l
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Jase,
That's what I was afraid of--thanks for the input.
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  #6  
Old March 1st, 2004, 03:27 PM
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Robert Ragland
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The fiberglass hard-top is not really hard to remove, though it can be awkward and frustrating at times. Take-off is easier than installation. Have someone else available (and possibly two people depending on their height) to help with the main roof panel.

Follow the LRNA supplied instructions in the correct order (don't just start loosening everything) and be patient when the top seems to stick in place. Remember, fiberglass will crack if bent forcefully. Anyone manhandling or rushing this might as well use a sledge hammer to remove it. Budget enough time to finish the job without stopping.

This isn't very mechanical, it just doesn't come off like a Wrangler one piece top.
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  #7  
Old March 2nd, 2004, 03:54 PM
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Jan Jurgielewicz
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special tool required?

Is this a special torque wrench? If so, where can I get one or can I use a sockey?

Thanks...
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  #8  
Old March 2nd, 2004, 04:48 PM
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Robert Ragland
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No, I used a socket set. Refer to the instructions for the exact sizes needed, or use trial and error. The original kit actually supplied a tool, but its not necessary. It seems like you need a 9mm or 10, something in that range. Using ziploc bags with labels to organize the different sets of bolts helps when it is time to reinstall the top. You're less likely to lose them, too.
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  #9  
Old January 3rd, 2005, 11:39 PM
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Chuck
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hard top (installation)...

hear tell that for a 94 s/t there is a special kit needed for h/t (fiberglass) installation... can anyone confirm this? if true, does anyone know where i can get one?

thanks,
-snosrfr

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  #10  
Old January 4th, 2005, 01:32 AM
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Robert Dassler
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Chuck,
Yes there was a fitting kit needed to install the fiberglass top on the 1994 D-90. It consisted of a bunch of 6mm threaded inserts that you had to install in place of the rivets in the body capping to give you something to bolt to as well as some filler pieces needed to cover gaps. The diagonal braces on the 1994 are different than the 1995 and bolt down in a slightly different spot on the body capping. The fiberglass has to be cut for clearance here and the filler pieces were used to fill the excess gap...they did a poor job and most are missing by now I'd imagine. The kit will be a dealer item if it is still available...but I doubt it as the top is discontinued. You can source 6mm threaded inserts and install them to allow fitment of a top if your truck is not already modified.
Rob
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  #11  
Old January 4th, 2005, 01:36 AM
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Trae Reuwer
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At MAR, I installed one on my 94 with the help of Ron Peppard, or more accurately, he installed it with my help, although he me let me make the cuts. To fit the fiberglass top on a 94 model the top must be cut, I did it with a hacksaw. Where the rollbar drops down, right behind the front seats, to the sides, that's where it needs to be cut. There was a line on the top I bought that measured up where it needed to be cut, but you can just place the sides in an approximate position to measure with. Do not expect it to be perfect, I still needed to use some pipe insulation, cut in half, on both sides of my top. It is better than the stock soft top though. Hope it helps.

Roadsiderob, quicker than me. Yes, i needed to drill out the rivets. They still line up, but I dont reccomend doing them all unless you replace them with the "rivenuts". However, a few drilled out will work fine, just make sure you drill out the ones that you can reach with a nut on the other side.
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  #12  
Old January 4th, 2005, 10:45 AM
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Jon Strong
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A flexible 1/4 drive "nut driver" comes in handy to do the job, any hardware store should have one.

That, a phillips screw driver, and a 10mm open end wrench should be all you need............besides a lil patience.
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  #13  
Old January 4th, 2005, 01:12 PM
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Michael Spellman
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LR recommends a hand driver rather than a wrench, b/c you can't over-torque the nuts & damage the very very brittle fiberglass. If my terminology sounds off, it basically looks like a screwdriver w/a 3/8" driver end as opposed to screwdriver end. Any hardware store will have one. I can take it off/put it on by myself if I remove the liftgate. I leave the side & back pieces together also.
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  #14  
Old January 4th, 2005, 06:58 PM
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Chuck
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Rob, Trae, Jon and Michael,

Much thanks for the info guys. Doesn't sound too bad - and I believe you nailed it Trae, "it is better than the stock soft top."

-C
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