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  #21  
Old November 1st, 2007, 12:05 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Ok, pictures of the interior of the middle doors

http://lhsw.com/gallery/janeyMiddleDoors

Exterior shots are here

http://lhsw.com/gallery/janeyMiscPurchase/DSC02307
http://lhsw.com/gallery/janeyMiscPurchase/DSC02308

What do you think?

If I put any effort into saving these doors until i can get 2 piece ones, I'd like to find the galvanized trim strip for them.

charles
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  #22  
Old November 1st, 2007, 01:33 PM
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Jim Cheney
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I think a good application of POR 15 will at least make them monochrome and perhaps stop the shale from flaking off. A stripe of rattle-can silver would probably make them look acceptable (instead of sourcing/buying the trim) as would masking the county stripes and applying rattle-can white.

Are you going to try and find the original inside trims or go with something more modern? I know George at RDS has some various pieces of the correct original door trims for that truck, I know its not a full set, but what he does have is NOS, and is (with bad french NOLA accent) "veddy naice."
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  #23  
Old November 1st, 2007, 07:21 PM
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Charles Galpin
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First, I apologize in advance to John for hijacking his thread. Please ignore us and let us know how you fair with the project.

Agreed on the POR15 but have 2 issues there still

1. Structurally at least the RHS one needs some kind of bracing because the top half feels like it's coming free from the lower half. Hence my question about light welding without pulling the skins.
2. it needs some kind of trim to avoid people getting their clothes caught and or scratched. I take other peoples kids in it and that scares the shit out of me right now

Yes a sliver stripe would probably do, but I also need some sort of handle, and assumed the trim would also provide some kind of backing for that mounting. Maybe some door trim will resolve this.

I chat with George on a semi regular basis now that I have a hole in the garage, but he hasn't mentioned this. I'll ask next time me talk. I was really thinking of getting some sheet metal (or aluminum) and just making some door panels something similar to the american dirt roads ones.

http://americandirtroads.com/catdoorpanels.html#

As long as I can screw it into good metal it should give both rigidity and a snag free surface.

Speaking of doors and panels, I tried to mount my D90 panels on the front doors and noticed they have an extra bracket on them for the check rod like the ones in the picture above which mine don't have so the panel doesn't fit without cutting a notch for that. Is this a '95 or '97 thing? My '94 has the kind that slide in the door slot.

charles
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  #24  
Old November 1st, 2007, 07:30 PM
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It is a 95 thing.

Ron
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  #25  
Old November 1st, 2007, 09:50 PM
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Wow, that is the first time i have seen the difference between the old doors and the NAS ones. Those look much easier to repair than the NAS version. You can definitely salvage those for the mean time.
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  #26  
Old November 1st, 2007, 11:54 PM
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The 95-up check strap is much better, since it locks in place and will actually hold the door open.
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  #27  
Old November 2nd, 2007, 01:15 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching
charles! save your money. There *should* be a charge light. There NEEDS to be a charge light. If the charge light is burnt out the alternator will not charge properly.
Just an update. I got as far as verifying there was voltage to the bulb but it was bad. I replaced it with a known good bulb and when in place now see voltage on the black-white wire on the other side of the bulb, but still no light (which seems odd if current is flowing), and still no voltage on the brown-yellow wire at the alternator. With no bulb, the black-white wire *might have had a very slight voltage (like .01) but not sure if I am remembering correctly.

I traced the 2 thick brown wires and the yellow-brown wire to the starter. The yellow-brown continues on in the loom and the wiring diagram says it goes to the charging bulb as well as tees of to a ignition light resistor. I found the starter had at least one more smaller brown wire coming off it that is broken and appears to have a redundant mate according to my wiring diagram and powers a few things like the fuel gauge which do work so for now I'll assume that although broken it's not directly related to my charging problem (but will fix when I address the next issue).

The spade connector on the starter solenoid that the purple-white wire connects to is broken off. Not sure if this is repairable or if I need to get a new solenoid. Will see on further inspection.

Anyone know if this purple-white wire being disconnected could cause the charging problem? My wiring diagram (a lovely single page) shows this wire goes to a ballast resistor and on to the coil.

charles
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  #28  
Old November 2nd, 2007, 09:02 PM
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doors

$500 bucks for 2 pieces of ali bent on a brake in about 10 min? Someone's smoking sling rope over at AmericanDirtroads.

I have those galvy pieces somewhere in my garage (I think) took them off a set of doors I chopped in half to make this:
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  #29  
Old November 2nd, 2007, 10:37 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Keith, what did you do? Turn a 5 door into a 3 door?

If you get a chance to look for those galvy pieces, I'd appreciate it!

thanks
charles
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  #30  
Old November 3rd, 2007, 03:49 AM
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The American Dirt Roads parts are heavy guage stainless and Len spent a good deal of time getting the design and fit right.
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