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  #1  
Old March 11th, 2014, 01:03 AM
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Grounding issues

I opted to put a stereo in my ex MOD and everything was going well until I drove it and noticed the turn signals weren't working.

At first I installed the stereo with a feed from the ignition and a feed from the battery, and the stereo worked fine but my turn signals wouldn't work. Hazards worked fine though.

I figured maybe the ignition feed was drawing off of the indicators so I just connected both stereo feeds to the battery and it worked okay, but the turn signals still wouldn't work.

Lastly I took out the stereo and the turn signals worked fine.

I've narrowed it down to whenever I ground the stereo I lose my indicators. I run 18ga wire from the ground on my stereo harness to the ground on the engine side of the bulkhead. I'm puzzled as to what is going on here...ghosts of Lucas For the record, everything else seems to be working fine when the stereo is grounded.
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  #2  
Old March 11th, 2014, 02:22 AM
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Are all your lights working? I noticed odd occurrences when lights are not connected or otherwise inop.
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Old March 11th, 2014, 11:45 AM
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Yea, all lights are good. Brake lights, running lights, and hi and lo beams all work fine.
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  #4  
Old March 11th, 2014, 08:16 PM
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Actually I found it that the brake lights don't illuminate either...something going on collectively with the relays and the ground...could the ground from the radio be enough charge to prohibit the grounding of the relays or something similar?
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Old March 11th, 2014, 08:43 PM
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Yes it can if you pull off the same ground lead... run a new ground for any new application, don't connect to any old black wire.
Odd enough am not aware of the brake lights being operated by a relay.
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Old March 11th, 2014, 09:33 PM
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I didn't connect to a random wire though, it's a new feed, running behind the dash to the bulkhead on the engine side, same ground, but separate wire. A shop that wasn't very good put in a new ground for a switch (which was entirely removed) on the cab side of the bulkhead. When I grounded to that ground, it was the same deal.

Is there anywhere in particular I should create a new ground. I take it the ground wire shouldn't be tool long, correct?

Thanks in advance
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  #7  
Old March 11th, 2014, 10:20 PM
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Run the ground to the battery. End of problem
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  #8  
Old March 11th, 2014, 10:50 PM
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I run a two wire set up always. I have wired ground "hubs" in four locations on my truck for solid and trustworthy ground.
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Old March 11th, 2014, 11:05 PM
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Yea, once I'm back home I was gonna do a better setup but for the time being I just wanted to have a radio and turn signals, which apparently is too much to ask from my 110 haha. I'll ground to the battery tomorrow and see how it goes, thanks guys.
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  #10  
Old March 12th, 2014, 12:04 AM
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Hooking a wire straight to the battery could solve one problem and create another.
If you ground a radio straight to the battery, the radio will work, but other devices could attempt to draw a ground through the radio if it is connected to the bulkhead with an otherwise weak ground from the battery to the bulkhead.
If this is the case the radio would heat up as a ground is drawn through the case and possibly burst into flames or burn the wire from the battery to the radio.

I have thought all along that your vehicle could have grounding issues, so trying a direct wire may solve one problem, but may create others.
If your ground to the frame and bulkhead is poor, that that needs to be fixed before implementing a work around to try and solve a grounding issue.
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  #11  
Old March 12th, 2014, 12:13 AM
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If you mean poor in that there isn't a clean connection physically from the grounding wire to the frame/bulkhead then that is false. I've taken the grounds off, wire brushed and sanded the location down, applied di-electric grease, and tightened them. I also checked the crimps on the ground wires and they were clean and i sprayed them with deox-it for good measure.

I feel like that wouldn't be the issue or I am misunderstanding you.

In regards to the radio drawing heat, it sounds like in that scenario there would be two ground wires going to the radio? Is that the scenario you mention, because I was going to disconnect the one to the bulkhead and put it on the battery, not add on another.
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  #12  
Old March 12th, 2014, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
If you mean poor in that there isn't a clean connection physically from the grounding wire to the frame/bulkhead then that is false. I've taken the grounds off, wire brushed and sanded the location down, applied di-electric grease, and tightened them. I also checked the crimps on the ground wires and they were clean and i sprayed them with deox-it for good measure.

I feel like that wouldn't be the issue or I am misunderstanding you.

In regards to the radio drawing heat, it sounds like in that scenario there would be two ground wires going to the radio? Is that the scenario you mention, because I was going to disconnect the one to the bulkhead and put it on the battery, not add on another.
Here's what I mean:
If your scenario is that the ground from the (-) battery is less that 100% to the bulkhead & frame
Then you hook a wire from the (-) battery to your radio
And the base of the radio is grounded
other devices like say the heater fan will search for a ground, because there is not a good one from the (-) battery.
And these devices will try and draw current through the separate ground wire that you add from the (-) battery to the radio.
That is the best case with a bad ground.

The worse case is the starter tries to draw current from the (-) battery through these small wires you run to the radio and through the radio frame.
If this happens the wires and radio frame glow red and burst into flames.

Hopefully this never happens, but having a bad ground from the battery to the frame and bulkhead with a separate (-) wire to the radio could cause one of these scenarios.
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UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #13  
Old March 12th, 2014, 02:21 PM
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What else should I do to insure I have a proper ground? Just to get the radio and turn signals working, could I just ground the radio to the frame somewhere else, like a new ground?
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  #14  
Old March 12th, 2014, 02:35 PM
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A couple of things.

First, start hooking up accessories the right way: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=26830

(but ignore the stuff about soldering terminal ends on. Use a big industrial crimper to crimp them. That's what I've switched to.)

Before you attach anything to the positive side of the battery, replace your your primary ground from the battery. Typically they ground to the frame but it might go to your gearbox, etc.. Duplicate whatever you have already but use better cable. Build up a nice new ground cable with the marine grade wire, 2AWG or larger. Clean the spot thoroughly where you attach this cable to the truck. It needs to get a good, solid electrical contact to this spot.

Next, look for any grounding straps from the motor to the frame. These (if you have more than one) likely need replacing. They're typically braided, flat straps. Buy a nice new one and (again) clean the spots where you bolt it down. There should be a bulkhead-to-frame ground strap, too. Replace that.
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Old March 12th, 2014, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackField View Post
I run a two wire set up always. I have wired ground "hubs" in four locations on my truck for solid and trustworthy ground.
As he said, but for belt and braces tie those hubs into a home run cable to the battery for the earth, also watch the bullet connector connectors they do corrode inside under the rubber, but do not try to crimp them to make a tighter fit, as the metal part they do split. get a bunch of new ones as you go along.
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  #16  
Old March 12th, 2014, 02:56 PM
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Thanks Chris, I read through that post a few days ago and it's pretty informative. I'll do the battery to frame ground this weekend hopefully, its been a long time since I've soldered.

Anyone know where I can get the belt braided ground straps or a part number?
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  #17  
Old March 12th, 2014, 04:09 PM
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I think the part number is RRC8681 for the chassis-to-motor strap. Honestly, though, any braided, tinned copper ground strap will do. Ebay has tons of them.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/copper-braided-ground-strap
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  #18  
Old March 12th, 2014, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
I think the part number is RRC8681 for the chassis-to-motor strap. Honestly, though, any braided, tinned copper ground strap will do. Ebay has tons of them.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/copper-braided-ground-strap
What advantages are there, if any, to using the braided ground strap versus a piece of cable? On my 110, I have a cable grounding the battery to the chassis, and a braided ground strap grounding the engine to the chassis. The only thing I can think of is that perhaps the braided strap might be less prone to work hardening and breaking with movement of the engine.
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Old March 12th, 2014, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
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What advantages are there, if any, to using the braided ground strap versus a piece of cable? On my 110, I have a cable grounding the battery to the chassis, and a braided ground strap grounding the engine to the chassis. The only thing I can think of is that perhaps the braided strap might be less prone to work hardening and breaking with movement of the engine.
Surface area of the ground is important. Flexibility is also important, as you pointed out, because of the vibration of the motor.

See here:

http://forums.qrz.com/archive/index.php/t-234748.html
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  #20  
Old March 15th, 2014, 01:56 PM
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I found two grounding straps that seemed in okay condition but weren't connected to anything. They're on the bulkhead engine side and maybe 8" long. One on the passenger side (behind the heater box) and one on the driver side (behind the brake components).

Where should these go to?
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