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GM Gen 4 conversion including LS

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conversion
963K views 3K replies 280 participants last post by  LandDefender 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
O.k. I got permission from the forum member to post a few pics.

This is a GM Gen 4 mated to a 6 speed and then to the LT230. Guess what...no change needed in your drive lines as this mates up to your LT 230.

Imaging all the HP and gas mileage you could want. WOW. More to come from the forum member.
 

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#1,308 · (Edited)
I bought an LC9 & 6L80e from a wrecked 2010 Silverado 1500 with 41.5k on the odometer. Paid $3k. Comes with exhaust manifolds, air cleaner, wiring loom & 'brain'. Think I did pretty good?



I'm committed now!
 
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#1,310 ·
ok, another stupid question, but how does the Lokar Pedal assembly (DBW-GM01) attach to the Pedal adapter? Not sure if i'm missing something, but i'm not getting it... i've got one long forward facing bolt on the adapter, and no obvious mounting holes to actually attach the assembly. Do I need to drill my own holes?
 
#1,311 ·
There are two versions of the pedal that I've encountered. Nick's adapter bracket is configured for the earlier style that has a cast aluminum body and two diagonal through holes for bolts/studs. The new version is machined billet aluminum and has two 3/8" (if I remember correctly) captured nuts in the body.

-Ash
 
#1,313 ·
The new one works fine, it's just a function of how easy you want the install to be. Summit sent me a new style, but the one provided with the 6.2 from Turnkey was the older version.

When I ran the new version I just made a simple template off the back of it to locate and mark the two holes that needed to be drilled, then just bolted it in place from the outside. It's a two-man job but really straight forward and the splined pedal can be clocked to the appropriate position without issue.

-Ash
 
#1,316 ·
New version works and almost lined up with my existing peddle holes, just use the top hole and elongate the bottom (less then half a bolt hole) is a bitch to fit on your own though took me nearly an hour :eek: my only complaint with it is I don't think you can fit it as high up the footwell as would possibly be perfect?
 
#1,355 ·
Ok, here is the scoop on the Lokar pedals. The one pictured is the old style, DBW-GM01. Which is compatible with my pedal adapter.

The current one (all billet) is BDBW-GM01.

The older ones are still in limited stock at various distributors. At least you can determine which one you are getting based on the part number.

Nick
 

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#1,322 ·
I'm currently running a '96 110 axle in front, and a '96 Discovery 1 axle in the rear. Do I need to upgrade the rear axle (or both) to handle the extra torque? Would MOD axles be better able to take the strain?
 
#1,324 ·
A 96 110 front has the crappy CVs. Basically both axles are crap in stock form. You want all chrome moly internals and real diffs Pinned HD ring and pinion of you go off road.
 
#1,327 ·
hi all,
on the subject of differentials, axles shafts etc. i emailed david ashcroft and asked if the aschcroft air lockers, shafts and transfer case would take the extra grunt:i used the 6.2l v8 with the 6l80e as an example

"Yes the LT230 transfer cases are usually fine with this power,

The diffs and shafts will be OK assuming you lift off the power when the wheels are up to reduce shock loading,

This setup should work fine for you,"

further clarification came in the form of:

"Yes I mean when you are landing from a jump,

You should be OK with stock ratio diffs and a 1.2 ratio LT230"

i hope this is of help .

any updates on the adapters?? :))

regards swaini
 
#1,329 ·
Hi all. So my Defender is all engineered and being used daily :) Its awesome fun but two things have cropped up...

1st is that IMHO 1.4:1 transfer box its no good, 100 KM/h is 2000 RPM which seems a bit high. I'm guessing 1.2:1 would give me 1700 @ 100 but am considering 1:1. I have a low mileage 1.2:1 "on the shelf" so I will give that a go first.

2nd, what have people done with their Airbox? I have a pod type filter that did not pass the engineering so a box type filter was bodged on (after dyno tuning) by a garage for the engineer but it was a joke, v badly fitted and only about 2.5" outlet. I have ripped it out again and put the pod back on but it is noisy and no water protection so was wondering what others have done?

20160611_140339 by James Elphick, on Flickr
 
#1,330 · (Edited)
Airintake

2nd, what have people done with their Airbox? I have a pod type filter that did not pass the engineering so a box type filter was bodged on (after dyno tuning) by a garage for the engineer but it was a joke, v badly fitted and only about 2.5" outlet. I have ripped it out again and put the pod back on but it is noisy and no water protection so was wondering what others have done?
For a LS1/2 in Australia, i would try one from PatrolDocta (great quality) I initially had one feeding my Duramax in my Defender but i wanted a bigger 1 for more air flow so built my own. They now build a 4 inch version which should provide enough airflow. Cheers Gaz

P.S . Great to see you have your 50th engineered!
 
#1,332 ·
For a LS1/2 in Australia, i would try one from PatrolDocta (great quality) I initially had one feeding my Duramax in my Defender but i wanted a bigger 1 for more air flow so built my own. They now build a 4 inch version which should provide enough airflow. Cheers Gaz

P.S . Great to see you have your 50th engineered!
Cool thanks for that and they are only 15 minuets from work!!
 
#1,337 ·
All with the 5.3 LC9:


What are you using for oil?


What filter are you using?


Does your air intake (to the inlet manifold) face the front or rear of the engine?


Thanks,


Paul.
 
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