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  #21  
Old November 23rd, 2008, 08:56 PM
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Hi Neil,

I would definitely check the input of your relay and output witch should be the same. Also how old are your glow plugs ? Are they any good ? If you are getting the dash light at least the signal is good and should trip the relay. So check the resistance of the relay between input and output when it is on and see if it is ok.

That is where I would start to look and at least the parts are not expensive straight from the UK.

Let me know how it turns out.

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  #22  
Old November 24th, 2008, 04:12 PM
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When I turn the key, the choke light illuminates for about 10 seconds (pic#1). Pic #2 is the relay, or timer as I think it's called. Pic #3 shows a bit more detail.

I get 12V to the switching terminal when the key is turned. The 12V remains on and does not go away when the choke light extinguishes.

I have a constant 12V at the wire from the battery. When the inginition is turned, I cannot here the timer (relay) click, nor do get 12V at the output to the glow plugs. I see a momentary spike on my meter. The max voltage seen is about 4V and lasts less than a second.

The small spades on the timer (relay) have never had anything attached. I believe that my glow plugs have never worked, I only thought they did since I saw the light on the binacle. Once I get 12V to them from the timer (relay), then I'll shoot them with the IR temp to see if they're actually working, unless there's an easier way to verify they work properly.

My question is this: What are the smaller spades on the timer (relay) used for? Any help is appreciated.

Thanks.

Follow-up Post:

Just found this (pic # 4).
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  #23  
Old November 24th, 2008, 04:43 PM
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I think I have the exact same timer/relay on my 200Tdi setup and the glow plugs work fine. The only difference is that my timer/relay is triggered by a momentary button on the dash and not the ignition switch (although it started life as a 2.5NA). I'll check mine and get back to you.

BTW, anybody know what the normal resistance (to ground) of the glow plug heater element is? I want to make sure all mine are in working order.
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  #24  
Old November 24th, 2008, 05:20 PM
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Okay, it's wired wrong. The 12V that I thought was coming from the ingnition was actually from the binacle. I put 12V to the switching power and it clicked over, then after about 10 seconds, clicked off.

Not sure what terminal #3 is for (white/red tracer to ignition switch.

Chance, does yours have the harness to the relay, or just female spades? What does the white/red wire do? Are all of yours hooked up? I don't think I need them all, but I'd like my wife to be able to drive it in the winter should it come to that, that is, without having to have some kind of written starting procedure: Turn this, push this, flick that, now wait, now push this, etc.)
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  #25  
Old November 24th, 2008, 05:39 PM
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Neil,

You should have a heavy gauge non switched power (mine comes of the positive lug on the starter)-that would be the Brown wire in your picture 4. The white with red tracer (small gauge) is the signal coming from the ignition switch-that starts the timer. The wire going to the number 4 glowplug and daisy linked to the others is yellow on mine. As long as there is a signal there should be an output to the glow plugs till the timer kicks off. Did you have 12 volts there once you got the relay to click ?. My ground just goes to a screw on the bulkhead that holds the relay.
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  #26  
Old November 24th, 2008, 06:56 PM
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Yes, once I figured out the wiring, I jumpered 12V to the switching power (Pin 4) and got 12V on the output of the timer-relay (Pin 2). After about 10 seconds later the relay clicked and the voltage dropped off-Timer works! So, I don't think that the white w/ red tracer starts the timer. To clarify, I had nothing hooked to pin 3, wired 12V to pin 4 and the timer-relay clicked (closed). Then after about 10 seconds, it clicked again (open).

I'm still not sure what the white with red tracer is for. I got it to work without hooking anything up to it. Pin 4, the any white in the wiring harness gets 12V whenever I turn the key on. I don't know what the white with red tracer does. Maybe it interrupts power to the relay so that if you start it, it clicks off the relay to cut power to the glow plugs.

If my assumption is right, and someone has the harness, they could verify this by putting a meter in the harness where pin 3 goes (harness disconnected) and then turn the key to where the glow plugs should energize. There should be 0V. Then when the key is turned again (engage starter) this should see 12V, which would open the timer-relay. I'm a little nervous about applying 12V to pin 3 to test my own theory. I looked this evening for a white w/red tracer wire coming from my ignition and couldn't see one jumping out at me.

I think that I'm going to wire it up without using pin 3 for now. I'm currently in CT and I'm going to need the glow plugs. Also need to get the 90 running.

Chance, I'll check the resistance tomorrow on my glow plugs. Also, once I get everything running, I'll determine what kind of surface temps they have.
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  #27  
Old November 24th, 2008, 06:56 PM
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OK, I looked at mine and it's the same part number. It's wired like Doug's with the exception of the white/red wire being hooked to a momentary switch on the dashboard. I have to hold the button down to get power to the glow plugs. Eventually, the relay times out and disconnects power to the glow plugs. Whereupon

I do have a single connector on my relay, but that shouldn't matter. Best I can tell, yours appears to be wired correctly. Ohm out your glow plugs. Measure the resistance from ground to the glow plug terminal. I'm not sure what normal is, but they should all be roughly the same.
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  #28  
Old November 24th, 2008, 07:06 PM
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So do you guys have anything hooked to pin 4?

Doug, it sounds like your push button for the glow plugs is wired to pin 3 then. is that correct?
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  #29  
Old November 24th, 2008, 07:15 PM
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Nothing on 4 and 3 appears to go to my pushbutton.

Found this thread, but I don't have a login to see the wiring diagram:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?sh...t=#entry301377
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  #30  
Old November 24th, 2008, 07:41 PM
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Thanks Chance, here's the wiring diagram: Dicso 200Tdi glow plug (for thread searching purposes) Looks like I have some options here. From the diagram, it looks like my initial assumption was right about the white w/ red tracer as far as getting 12V when the ignition switch is turned to the start position. I think I'll be safe without hooking up pin 3 for right now.
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  #31  
Old November 24th, 2008, 08:10 PM
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Thanks for putting up that wiring diagram. That should help sort things out.
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  #32  
Old November 24th, 2008, 09:01 PM
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Neil I dont have the factory relay with the timer. I have a generic heavy duty relay that I wired myself and my timer is in the tip of my finger.

From the diagram your white and red wire goes back to a nonexistant glowplug lamp on the binnacle.
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  #33  
Old November 26th, 2008, 11:23 AM
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Okay, got the relay clicking with the ignition, got 12V at the output of the timer/relay to the glow plugs, even got 12V at the glow plug to the #1 cylinder (most forward) along the daisy chain. Checked amps from the relay to the first glow plug. ZERO. I changed the leads on the meter, put it in-line between the relay and the first glow plug, I'm doing this right, right? I should expect a lot of amps, right? Even if one of my glow plugs was bad, I should at least see some amps. Unless they're all bad.

I'm moving to a warmer climate. On a good note, it started this morning with little trouble, 29F.
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  #34  
Old November 26th, 2008, 11:33 AM
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Sounds like you're measuring the current draw correctly, so it has to be either that they're all bad (unlikely), or the ground strap from the block to the frame is missing or making poor contact. The glow plugs get their ground from the engine block. Ground strap should be over by the starter. Take your Ohm meter and measure the resistance from the frame to the engine block. Should be less than 1 Ohm or so. Also check where your negative lead from the battery exits the battery box and bolts to the frame.

56 degrees today. 36 and snow tomorrow. Typical Colorado weather.
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  #35  
Old November 26th, 2008, 01:29 PM
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Checked chassis to block ground. Just digging in the lead without scrapping paint I got 2 ohm. From the negative battery terminal to the block I got 0.7 ohm. I took out the #1 and #2 cylinder glow plugs and I got in the 100 kohm range...100,000 ohms is a lot of mutha' f$&%in' ohms. I'm guessing they're all bad.
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  #36  
Old November 26th, 2008, 07:38 PM
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OK, I just checked mine. I've got 0.5 Ohm between bulkhead (or frame) and the engine block. All my glow plugs read just shy of 1k Ohm (945 Ohms). Sounds like you're high by two orders of magnitude. Do you have an auto-ranging DVM?
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  #37  
Old November 26th, 2008, 08:27 PM
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Yes, auto-ranging. I think I'll check the resistance between the ground on my bulkhead for the glow plug relay and the block tomorrow. I'm also going to check the resistance again on my glow plugs after I clean up the ends.
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  #38  
Old November 26th, 2008, 08:55 PM
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Cool, just making sure. Seemed odd that we were just a couple zeros apart. Can't believe that they're all bad, but who knows...
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  #39  
Old June 12th, 2011, 04:36 PM
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Does anyone know how Rover's North wires the glow plugs on a V8-to-300tdi conversion?

Mine were working fine until recently when I decided to remove the wiring for a rear work light. I swear I didn't remove any wires that I didn't know what it was but now my glow plugs don't kick in anymore. They are wired to to the check engine light to come on for 5 sec. I removed a hella relay for the rear work light so I can't imagine this have anything to do with the glow plugs. Any thoughts?
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  #40  
Old November 27th, 2011, 02:16 PM
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I found the glow plug relay. Don't laugh. It was located in the battery box. I was looking in the engine compartment because that is where RN told me they put it. I still haven't found why its not working any more. RN told me that it connects to the battery but not necessarily in the battery box. I suppose I will have to open the harness and trace the brown wire?

There is also a red mystery wire that that goes from the battery to a mystery relay or ground of some sort (see picture 3 & 4). Anyone know what this is? Do I need these? Can I remove them?
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