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  #1  
Old January 10th, 2013, 06:07 PM
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Glow Plug Short

Replaced the glow plugs today in the 200tdi with correct Beru ones. Now every time I press my glow plug button it immediately blows the fuse. This didn't happen with the old ones.

The glow plug circuit is a simple line from a fuse block, to a switch, directly to the plugs. I've checked all the wires, no frays or shorts that I can see.

The old system was running on a 30 amp fuse with what looked to be the original glow plugs. Since the system is hard wired without a solenoid or relay, is 30amp not enough? What is the current draw of the glow plugs?

What am I missing?

------ Follow up post added January 10th, 2013 06:17 PM ------

Oh snap, a quick google search shows they draw about 10-25amps at initial glow, minimum, hence relays or solenoids

That's probably my issue!
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  #2  
Old January 10th, 2013, 10:34 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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brand new = more current draw.

Raise your fuse level.
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Old January 11th, 2013, 12:22 AM
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Robert Davis
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Check a stock diagriam...

Short... Glow Plugs (GPs) are not very tall, often standing in a hole.

Fuse???????????????????????????
What makes you think a fuse is required?

In general terms, the main glow plug circuit works sort of like this.
The IG SW sends juice to a timer relay which closes a set of very low voltage coils for a short time (the time it is suppose to take to "generally start the engine under normal conditions" determined by some engineer who lives in the tropics and has never been in cold climates).
When the coils are energized a set of heavy duty contacts send BATTERY CURRENT to the glow plugs for the length of time the electronics or bi-metal strip is sets it to pass the 12V to the plugs (by that same guy who has never been to AK or anywhere cold).

A fuse in that circuit would overheat and melt the insulating plastic even if it was rated at say 40 - 50 AMPs.
The GPs draw about 6-11 AMPS each and that's up to about 44 AMPS (give or take 10 or more).
That's equivalent in 12V to high tension!
So put the fuses away and wire the GPs without a fuse...
AND
If you think this is just bad advise don't follow it or look up a wiring diagram for any diesel and follow the circuit for glow from the genesis to exodus and simply note all the fuses in the current draw path along the way to the glow plugs.
That would identify the flow of electrons from the battery to the plug, and not any switching means except those which "jump" the current like a relay.
Note the number of fuses the current passes through.
Hint not > 1 on the whole number scale.
Hope this helpful...
Happy Motoring.
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  #4  
Old January 11th, 2013, 07:17 AM
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My truck was wired up in a way similar to what rob described. Literally a push button that connected the plugs directly to the battery.
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Old January 11th, 2013, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Short... Glow Plugs (GPs) are not very tall, often standing in a hole.

Fuse???????????????????????????
What makes you think a fuse is required?

In general terms, the main glow plug circuit works sort of like this.
The IG SW sends juice to a timer relay which closes a set of very low voltage coils for a short time (the time it is suppose to take to "generally start the engine under normal conditions" determined by some engineer who lives in the tropics and has never been in cold climates).
When the coils are energized a set of heavy duty contacts send BATTERY CURRENT to the glow plugs for the length of time the electronics or bi-metal strip is sets it to pass the 12V to the plugs (by that same guy who has never been to AK or anywhere cold).

A fuse in that circuit would overheat and melt the insulating plastic even if it was rated at say 40 - 50 AMPs.
The GPs draw about 6-11 AMPS each and that's up to about 44 AMPS (give or take 10 or more).
That's equivalent in 12V to high tension!
So put the fuses away and wire the GPs without a fuse...
AND
If you think this is just bad advise don't follow it or look up a wiring diagram for any diesel and follow the circuit for glow from the genesis to exodus and simply note all the fuses in the current draw path along the way to the glow plugs.
That would identify the flow of electrons from the battery to the plug, and not any switching means except those which "jump" the current like a relay.
Note the number of fuses the current passes through.
Hint not > 1 on the whole number scale.
Hope this helpful...
Happy Motoring.
PO had a fuse in the circuit, but quick research showed GP pull way more amps. The old ones must have been toast to no blow a 30amp fuse - hence my replacement!

Thanks! I will still throw a solenoid in the loop to protect things.
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  #6  
Old January 11th, 2013, 04:51 PM
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Your very welcome

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
PO had a fuse in the circuit, but quick research showed GP pull way more amps. The old ones must have been toast to no blow a 30amp fuse - hence my replacement!

Thanks! I will still throw a solenoid in the loop to protect things.

You could put in an adjustable timer relay that would work automagically.
If interested PM me.

Very interesting how the basics of electricity escapes many DIY guys who botch up wiring to no end and often do it with poor crimp connections that fall off, wire nuts for home electrical service, and just strip and twist wires, then tape them together... I've seen them just make it up as they go never really thinking about what they want and how to do it electrically.

Generally solder electrical connectors, but Bill Adams suggested some high end crimping that I will try shortly.
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  #7  
Old January 11th, 2013, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdavisinva View Post
Very interesting how the basics of electricity escapes many DIY guys who botch up wiring to no end and often do it with poor crimp connections that fall off, wire nuts for home electrical service, and just strip and twist wires, then tape them together... I've seen them just make it up as they go never really thinking about what they want and how to do it electrically.
Wha?!?!? You mean you can't just twist and tape wires???
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