Genuine LR UJ's for NAS D90 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 1st, 2013, 07:37 PM
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Genuine LR UJ's for NAS D90

Who is the manufacturer of genuine LR UJ's for the NAS D90? Is it GKN?
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  #2  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 08:21 PM
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Bumpski...
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  #3  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 08:31 PM
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You replacing? Just get the Precision UJs from Napa, i can look up the part # if you need it. Just literally did all of mine.
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  #4  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 09:45 PM
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Here's what I used for mine...Precision 344s, can be had for $20/ea at Napa:
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-U-Jo.../dp/B000CJUH6Q
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'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

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  #5  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Here's what I used for mine...Precision 344s, can be had for $20/ea at Napa:
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-U-Jo.../dp/B000CJUH6Q
Jason,
Yes I am replacing all four. Did you do this yourself?
A local driveshaft repair shop stated they do not use precisions, don't know why?
If you did this yourself, can you give any tips?

Cheers...
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  #6  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 10:15 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Jason,
Yes I am replacing all four. Did you do this yourself?
A local driveshaft repair shop stated they do not use precisions, don't know why?
If you did this yourself, can you give any tips?

Cheers...
I did it myself with only a big vice on my workbench and a long socket. I used precisions, and the other guys in the area here (who all wheel and abuse our trucks) most of them used precisions as well...so far no issues, and I've beat the snot out of them at Rausch and the Cove since then.

If you're mechanically handy at all on your truck, it's not bad at all really...just tedious. This youtube video will explain things better than I can here (and it's essentially what I watched before doing mine):


Pm me and I can give you my email/phone if you want to chat about it as well. The other thing I'll mention is while you're doing them, it's MUCH easier to grease all your driveshafts while you have them out of the truck as well, and to replace all of the driveshaft bolts and the nuts (Grade 8 Steel Nylon-Insert Hex Locknut 3/8-24) while you have them all off.

The last tip - which I didn't remember until after I had mine 1/2 done - is that the u-joints should be installed so the grease zerk is under COMPRESSION when the shaft spins. It's not a huge deal if you don't do this...but I'm way to meticulous and once I realized/remembered this I pulled my ones apart and redid them . So do them the right way the first time!

For those not following me, when the driveshaft spins you want the zerk (which is in the center of the cross of the ujoint) to be under compression - or in the way it's spinning. Versus under tension where the driveshaft is being pulled away from the zerk (theory here is that the ujoint zerk is stronger under compression than under tension). But again, many folks don't even give a sh*t about this (or know) so you're probably unlikely to even have an issue...however I just couldn't ignore it.
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'71 Series IIA
'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

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  #7  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
I did it myself with only a big vice on my workbench and a long socket. I used precisions, and the other guys in the area here (who all wheel and abuse our trucks) most of them used precisions as well...so far no issues, and I've beat the snot out of them at Rausch and the Cove since then.

If you're mechanically handy at all on your truck, it's not bad at all really...just tedious. This youtube video will explain things better than I can here (and it's essentially what I watched before doing mine):


Pm me and I can give you my email/phone if you want to chat about it as well. The other thing I'll mention is while you're doing them, it's MUCH easier to grease all your driveshafts while you have them out of the truck as well, and to replace all of the driveshaft bolts and the nuts (Grade 8 Steel Nylon-Insert Hex Locknut 3/8-24) while you have them all off.

The last tip - which I didn't remember until after I had mine 1/2 done - is that the u-joints should be installed so the grease zerk is under COMPRESSION when the shaft spins. It's not a huge deal if you don't do this...but I'm way to meticulous and once I realized/remembered this I pulled my ones apart and redid them . So do them the right way the first time!

For those not following me, when the driveshaft spins you want the zerk (which is in the center of the cross of the ujoint) to be under compression - or in the way it's spinning. Versus under tension where the driveshaft is being pulled away from the zerk (theory here is that the ujoint zerk is stronger under compression than under tension). But again, many folks don't even give a sh*t about this (or know) so you're probably unlikely to even have an issue...however I just couldn't ignore it.
Jason,

Good points! I may be giving you a call. Hopefully I'll get to this before spring time.

Cheers...
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  #8  
Old January 2nd, 2013, 10:28 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grover View Post
Jason,

Good points! I may be giving you a call. Hopefully I'll get to this before spring time.

Cheers...
Why are you replacing? Is there play in them? Or just prevantative?

What did the shop quote you to change them out? (just curious)
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'71 Series IIA
'88 127 #F96 DKN
'94 90 NAS #324
'06 LR3 HSE

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