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  #21  
Old December 8th, 2005, 01:38 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Thanks Rob - cheap is going to be the operating principle. If carbs run well, then carbs it is. Part of replacing everyting would be the desire to get the r380 and lt230.
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  #22  
Old December 8th, 2005, 02:54 PM
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Robert Dassler
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Jim,
As old as it is, it may have an LT95 or LT85 transmission. The carbs are ok but you have to keep them filled with the proper weight oil (apparently, in the UK, everything must be made to leak oil, even carburettors) or they don't work correctly(SAE20wt). The oil is used for damping and if it is incorrect viscosity or empty it will have an adverse affect on how fast the piston rises and can change the running characteristics. Make sure the guys check these before they leave and also during the trip. They are pretty simple overall, though. Most mechanics don't want anything to do with them because they don't understand them....there's nowhere to plug in a diagnostic tool. What you need to do is find yourself an old tyme mechanic...someone who worked on old Jaguars when they were new...or vintage races old british cars or something. See if you can pay him for some of his time and have him teach you how to tune them. Do this as soon as possible because these older guys are retiring now and the knowledge is going with them. The gentleman that taught me used to race Alpha Romeos...he had lots of fun stories about that...and he retired a couple of years ago.
I can't wait to see it.
Rob
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  #23  
Old December 8th, 2005, 03:17 PM
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Jason Herring
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I'm trying to picture the crank triggers on the flywheel - are these magnetic tabs attached to the flywheel? A friend of mine does custom aftermarket EFI work and just drills into the flywheel a small hole (1/8"?) and installs a rare earth magnet (cylinder in shape) for the pickups on older aluminum Buick V8's. Works great. But, I guess, if you can find a factory setup it would be alot easier for you.

I'd like to do the megasquirt as well and interface it with my onboard carPC - but I guess it doesn't support the 'check engine' light and might get caught by the emissions 'referee'. What I really want now is a knock sensor and a way to retard my timing based on it, as on hot days with cheap gas I get nasty pinging with the 3.9L EFI setup (I've already retared the ignition to 0deg TDC to try to eliminate this - if I use premium, this works but....)

Can someone tell me - is there a difference between the Disco ECU and the D90 ECU of the same MY? The engines seem to show different HP/torque specs (from one source anyway). Is there any benefit to running the Disco ECU in the D90?

The MAF resistor change is intriguing. Will the cats get too hot if the mixture is leaner than 12:1? What's the extra fuel used for on a cat-truck?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Hippert
I was trying to use the megasquirt with a Ford EDIS module, but you need an auto flywheel to make it work. The manual flywheel does not have the pickups on it for the crank sensor that triggers the ignition of the EDIS.

This would have been great because I would kill 2 birds with one stone, I would be running the megasquirt as an ECU (it's simple and you can hook it to your laptop and get real time readings of every sensor! then adjust your fuel injector rates and all kinds of other good stuff!) and 2 the EDIS mudal controls the spark coming out of the coil packs. YOu also control the EDIS fro the megasquirt! That means you basicly have control over everything on the engine!

I really wish this would have worked out but I just didn't want to pull the engine again so that I could somehow mount pickups for the crank sensor to the flywheel. The sensors are mounted on the engine side of the flywheel, they are on a band that is rivited to the flywheel and I really didn't want to spend allot of $$ and time getting it mounted (I still didn't have all the bugs worked out) so I opted out of it and went back to the 14CUX.

The EDIS is a popular coil pack controler in the antique car world because it is so simple to use. Check it out.

http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html

In theroy you could use it with the 14CUX, but i am not you would need something to advance and retard timming unless the crank pickups were offset when they were mounted so the timming was set properly.

Anyway, food for thought.
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  #24  
Old December 8th, 2005, 03:34 PM
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Robert Dassler
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Jason,
The factory setup on a disco1 uses a series of drilled holes that are interconnected to form the reluctor ring teeth that the sensor tip reads. I believe the ECUs are pretty much the same...the disco chip not having a speed limiter, though.
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  #25  
Old December 8th, 2005, 03:42 PM
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I still have the old flywheel I'll take a pic when i get a chance, IIRC it is a ring on the ineer side of the flywheel with tabes about 1/4" tall bent 90* as a magnetic pickup.
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  #26  
Old December 8th, 2005, 04:21 PM
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Jim Cheney
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roadsiderob
Jim,
The gentleman that taught me used to race Alpha Romeos...he had lots of fun stories about that...and he retired a couple of years ago.
I can't wait to see it.
Rob
All that is a good point Rob - this truck will really be more akin to series than a defender. I'll ultimately give it the ol' ground up like my current truck, but the more I think about it, the more I realize its going to be a lot of fun to run in its current configuration.

Incidentally, I met an old Alfa mechanic that taught me how to tune Webers (not that I'm very good at it!) when I bought my GTV. I love those old guys, this guy would tune the car almost entirely by ear and it never ran better. Truly a dying art.
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  #27  
Old December 8th, 2005, 09:53 PM
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Tim Riccardi
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Mike couldn't you just use a MSD pickup( the one that goes on the front dampner)? What aftermarket distributors will fit a Land Rover 3.9? Tim
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  #28  
Old December 9th, 2005, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boxerhips
Mike couldn't you just use a MSD pickup( the one that goes on the front dampner)? What aftermarket distributors will fit a Land Rover 3.9? Tim
Someone mentioned that before, but as i recall they are not shelled against water, dirt and mud very well.
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  #29  
Old December 9th, 2005, 08:33 AM
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I had a RR with the SU carbs and the piston was always sticking.In the UK we used a 3 in 1 oil which is a very light oil.If the truck is run often they are fine they only seem to stick if left for a while.I mentioned this to Mike the other week.
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  #30  
Old December 9th, 2005, 09:24 AM
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Chris Davis
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Tim, Mallory (which I am running) and MSD both make distributors for the 3.9--there may be others, but I have not heard reports. None of the distributors are sealed up really well--one simple method for keeping water out that I have seen is taking a small air bubbler pump like used in fish tanks, throw a switch on it for water crossings, and have it pump air into the distributor via a small hose creating a positive pressure--water won't be able to get in.
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  #31  
Old December 10th, 2005, 12:28 AM
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Tim Riccardi
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Davis I have never heard of "the old airpump trick", it sounds like it would work great. The distributors that fit (Mallory or Msd) do they work with their external control boxes or do they work with any coil? Tim
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  #32  
Old December 10th, 2005, 12:06 PM
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The Mallory needs the drive gear swapped, but will otherwise wire right into the system. You can either use the external box or not, you're choice.

The MSD requires the box just to function. Not sure if it needs a tach adapter ornot.

-Hans
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  #33  
Old January 4th, 2006, 01:29 AM
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Tim Riccardi
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Hans Does the Mallory or the MSD feed back to the ECU? I've read theat you can use a Buick HEI 350 distributor and it only requires 1 wire (12+), but doesn't the distributor "talk" to the ECU for fuel injector timing? Tim
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  #34  
Old January 4th, 2006, 01:24 PM
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Yep, but it's just a simple tach feed. It's not a 2-way connection, just a single wire from the Distributor to the ECU.

Under the HEI cap, the connector is right next to the 12volt power line.
With an MSD setup, it's the tach connector on the ignition box
Not sure where the Mallory crowd is hooking into the system. It's most likely from the negative terminal off the coil.

One problem I have heard with the HEI setups is that they don't clear the entire intake manifold and some grinding is needed.

You know, all that time under the hood, I still haven't identified which wire that the Lucas distributor uses for the EFI feed. I don't know if it goes to the distributor module or to the coil.

-Hans
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  #35  
Old January 5th, 2006, 05:25 PM
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Electromotive coilpacks are pretty resilient & can get wet. The control box for them can be located in the passenger compartment (I'd put it next to the battery) and is weather-resistant (the manufacturer suggests not putting it in the engine bay, but goes on to say that the circuit board is resin-sealed and waterproof...)
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