gears, lockers, axles??? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 06:30 PM
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Martin Spencer
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gears, lockers, axles???

I have decided to run a 255 or 285 tire, and started thinking about gears. I talked to Keith at rovertracks, and he actually recommended staying with stock gears because 4.1 would tack out around 75 mph and 3600 rpm's with those tires. I am also looking into arb's, and was thinking while I had everything apart I would change the gears. What are all of your opinions on this? I use the truck about half and half on vs. off road. The reason I wanted to change gears is for a lower low end (crawl speed). I also told him that my previous rovers and other off road vehicles have been automatics. I feel that my skills driving the stick in off road situations could also be part of the reason for wanting slower speeds (just to be honest).

Second question is: if I stay with stock gears and lockers will I end up breaking axles? I have read that the 3.54's are very strong, so wouldn't be worried about shreding gears, but figure the next thing to go would be the axles.

I should probably slap some 35's on it and regear!!!!!
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  #2  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 07:17 PM
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Mine has 4.11 gears with Front/Rear ARB lockers and 33x15x12.5 tires.
Sturdy. Runs well on hwy and off road.
Couldn't be happier.
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  #3  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 08:05 PM
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Kevin Buckley
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Unless you are getting fairly hardcore with your wheeling I'd just do a rear locker and Keiths axles and not regear. If you add a front locker/gears you up the bill considerably by then needing HD CV's and the cost of the gears in addition to a second ARB.
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  #4  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 09:59 PM
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Do you drive long distances in it? If so, I don't think I'd do it. Do you tow a trailer ever? If yes, then do it.
If you do decide to do it, do it all at one time and be done with it.

I did it to my 97 HT and it drives much better now. I run 255's and it seems to drive like a stock truck now. It has enough power to pass others on the Hwy. This is something I haven't been able to do in years. I put in the GBR 4.14's and didn't upgrade any axels, but I go easy on my truck.

As long as it is all apart, you might has well do the ARB front and rear. You will wish you did it later if you don't do it now.
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  #5  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 10:32 PM
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Dana Hammersley
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I run 285's on mine with 4:10 and love it. Does not tack out at 3600 rpm at 75. Mine tacks around 2800 at 70. Before with the stock gears at any little grade if I did not keep the rpms at at or above 2800 it would dog out on the slightest little grade. Now I can actullaly run down the road at 75-80 no problem. Even had it to 90 once. lol Do the gear change you'll like it better. Also before the change I would have to throttle almost to the floor to go 70 not so now. I may run more rpm's but push less fuel to it.
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  #6  
Old August 2nd, 2010, 11:13 PM
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If you want the tires, go get them and drive around for a while. See if you can live with it. I would avoid a gear swap if you can.
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Old August 3rd, 2010, 02:10 PM
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I also run 255x85's with 4:11's and locked f&r and would never undo it. It gave me the powerband that feels right. i too have not experienced a problem going 80+ mph. I take my truck on 3 hour hwy trips all the time and can keep up witht he best of them.
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  #8  
Old August 3rd, 2010, 10:18 PM
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I take my truck on 2000+ mile trips. 285s and stock gears left MUCH to be desired. Put in 4.10s and life is much better. As for the front locker, consider a Tru Trac since you have a 97 (aka auto trans). I (and many others) have run a TT/Detroit combo in my DII for years. Its a great set up.
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  #9  
Old August 7th, 2010, 03:31 AM
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I'm running 285/75/16s on my 97 d-90 SW with 3:9 ratio on ARB lockers in front and rear. I love this combination, I have the extra pull on the trails but maintain alot of my top speed and its easier for cruising. Recently did alot of offroading in Colorado with the rest of my running gear stock and had no problems, if you are careful you wont have any axle/cv problems. Great Basin Rovers built mine as drop in units with all new parts. The best idea is to call them and tell them your situation and they will help you determine the best solution.

BTW, if you get ARBs get the bigger air pump, it can air you back up in no time and its great to have onboard air

Also I heavily recommend using spacers with 285s like I do, they make a large difference.
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  #10  
Old August 7th, 2010, 10:39 AM
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x2 on the spacers; I forgot to mention them. I run them as well.
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  #11  
Old August 7th, 2010, 11:09 AM
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All this GBR talk makes me dizzy. Lucky8 has the hook-up on drop-in diffs with ARBs and gears at $1,500 a pop; slightly more if you get eh pegged diff, which IMO is the way to go. He's also got rear axles, with a warranty, for $398.00 a set. I'm pretty sure he can get front axles/CV's, too, but I'm not sure they're listed on his web site. Keith may be the hook-up on front end axles/CV's.

I run dual ARB's, but I think the set-up to have is a Detroit in the rear and an ARB in the front. I've never had any real issues with my ARB's, but I don't like problems and a Detroit is less prone to problems. When I recommend lockers to people, I recommend Detroits, but people can decide for themselves if they'd rather have ARB's.

I see mention of Truetracks in this thread. TT's are great and all, and they're 100% better than a stock diff. But it's not a locker. I ran one for years and it leaves a lot to be desired because it never fully locks when you want it to. I loved it in the snow, though!
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Old August 7th, 2010, 12:03 PM
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I'm running RoverTracks axles/CVs in the front and some mystery rear axles that Keith supplied for the rear as well. I'm not sure of the brand of the rears but I think they may be KAMs. They are the two piece design with separate drive flange; I'm running stock flanges. I really like this setup. Keith is a great guy and you can't go wrong buying from him.

I bought the TT/DT combo with 4.11's on 285s and I really like it. My speedo reads about 20% fast, though, and that really sucks. I think the solution would be to change to the hall-effect sender and newer speedo.
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  #13  
Old August 8th, 2010, 08:19 PM
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What Dan said....

Quote:
Originally Posted by dchapman View Post
All this GBR talk makes me dizzy. Lucky8 has the hook-up on drop-in diffs with ARBs and gears at $1,500 a pop; slightly more if you get eh pegged diff, which IMO is the way to go. He's also got rear axles, with a warranty, for $398.00 a set. I'm pretty sure he can get front axles/CV's, too, but I'm not sure they're listed on his web site. Keith may be the hook-up on front end axles/CV's.

I run dual ARB's, but I think the set-up to have is a Detroit in the rear and an ARB in the front. I've never had any real issues with my ARB's, but I don't like problems and a Detroit is less prone to problems. When I recommend lockers to people, I recommend Detroits, but people can decide for themselves if they'd rather have ARB's.

I see mention of Truetracks in this thread. TT's are great and all, and they're 100% better than a stock diff. But it's not a locker. I ran one for years and it leaves a lot to be desired because it never fully locks when you want it to. I loved it in the snow, though!
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Old August 10th, 2010, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by revor View Post
What Dan said....
Really?

For the life of me, I can't see spending 3k or more on axles that make 35's risky. Thats what makes America great though.
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  #15  
Old August 10th, 2010, 12:44 AM
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Well yeah... If you're staying Rover... Otherwise there are a "few" other options
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Old August 10th, 2010, 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by revor View Post
Well yeah... If you're staying Rover... Otherwise there are a "few" other options
Even Rover knew better than to stay Rover.
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  #17  
Old August 10th, 2010, 05:21 PM
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Even Rover knew better than to stay Rover.
So true!
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