Gauge showing HOT. Is this hot? - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old September 17th, 2017, 05:17 PM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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Gauge showing HOT. Is this hot?

I checked the temp on the block and hoses. Seems high. I'm far from being an expert.

Note: brand new hoses, water pump, thermostat, and radiator.

She runs perfectly when idling. Won't leave center gauge all day. Creeps near orange zone on highway after 15 minutes.

Thanks all.

https://youtu.be/UHh0eBlIcS4




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  #2  
Old September 17th, 2017, 05:41 PM
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Try massaging the hoses with the front if the truck jacked up to burp out any bubbles.

Also check ground of sender and gauge.

Check rad when truck is warm for cold spots (blockages)

If you have exhaust gas coolant tester ,try that for possible blown hg

Pull tstat and check to see if it's stuck half open/shut or just replace


No it isn't normal
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  #3  
Old September 17th, 2017, 06:32 PM
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You say you checked and it seems hot. What was the exact temperature? First suspect is always the gauge.
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Old September 17th, 2017, 07:02 PM
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I'm convinced too that many overheating fears are caused by inaccurate gauge or bad sender.
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  #5  
Old September 17th, 2017, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
You say you checked and it seems hot. What was the exact temperature? First suspect is always the gauge.
Thanks John. Check out the video above. I recorded it just incase I wasn't doing it correctly. Reading off the block show 217-238. Bottom hose 187. Top hose 167.

New everything--> hoses, thermostat, water pump and radiator.

People saying maybe air in the radiator? I'll try to bleed it.

------ Follow up post added September 17th, 2017 08:05 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
I'm convinced too that many overheating fears are caused by inaccurate gauge or bad sender.
In the video, I'm using one of those IR temp guns. Did I do it right?

------ Follow up post added September 17th, 2017 08:07 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Naplm00 View Post
Try massaging the hoses with the front if the truck jacked up to burp out any bubbles.

Also check ground of sender and gauge.

Check rad when truck is warm for cold spots (blockages)

If you have exhaust gas coolant tester ,try that for possible blown hg

Pull tstat and check to see if it's stuck half open/shut or just replace


No it isn't normal
Ok great tips. Thanks man!
Side note: New radiator might have warm/cold spots?
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  #6  
Old September 17th, 2017, 07:47 PM
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Oh. It's a V8. Yes. Air lock probably. Measure off the thermostat housing and the metal tanks on the radiator. The hoses won't be accurate.
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Old September 17th, 2017, 07:53 PM
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On the v8's you have to pull the radiator plug out and fill till it comes out. Just adding to the overflow bottle doesnt get the system full. As said above, the upper radiator hoses are famous for creating an air lock and you have to squeeze the hose and force the air out with the truck running. Yeah 238 is hot.
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  #8  
Old September 17th, 2017, 08:05 PM
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Stephen LeBlanc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Oh. It's a V8. Yes. Air lock probably. Measure off the thermostat housing and the metal tanks on the radiator. The hoses won't be accurate.
Ok thanks. Will do next weekend. Thanks for the tip!

------ Follow up post added September 17th, 2017 09:06 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Douglas View Post
On the v8's you have to pull the radiator plug out and fill till it comes out. Just adding to the overflow bottle doesnt get the system full. As said above, the upper radiator hoses are famous for creating an air lock and you have to squeeze the hose and force the air out with the truck running. Yeah 238 is hot.
Great advice. Thanks so much! I'll have an update next weekend.
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  #9  
Old September 20th, 2017, 06:52 PM
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Emissivity

Just a thought too - Inexpensive infrared thermometers dont usually have an emissivity setting. Not all objects emit infrared energy equally. The type of surfaces (e.g. metals, non-metals, transparent objects, hoses) and other factors can influence the amount of infrared energy that is emitted. (Also, varying distance between the object and the gun make a difference too)

This means if you are comparing the engine block to the black radiator hose, you could get two very different readings.

I would focus on the metal housing where the thermostat and sender unit are located. My estimation is this is the most accurate reading of the engine temp since that is where the temp sender is located and thus, the reading sent to your gauge.

Lastly, a previous reply stated about faulty senders....Couldn't agree more. I replaced three senders only to give up and put in the sender that came with my new VDO gauge. Now its spot on!

Good luck!

Edit: Oh and this last thought (quoted from member GWMckee): "if the [engine] temperature increases when not moving, there is likely an air flow problem... if the temperature increases while driving, there is likely a coolant flow problem"
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  #10  
Old September 20th, 2017, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmuiter View Post
Just a thought too - Inexpensive infrared thermometers dont usually have an emissivity setting. Not all objects emit infrared energy equally. The type of surfaces (e.g. metals, non-metals, transparent objects, hoses) and other factors can influence the amount of infrared energy that is emitted. (Also, varying distance between the object and the gun make a difference too)
Distance makes a big difference with these. The laser is really misleading as it makes you think you're taking a "spot" reading with these IR temp gauges. The distance from the object makes a big difference in the reading taken. Mostly it's related to the "Distance to Spot" ratio. Basically it comes down to the area being read increasing as you increase the distance from the spot. It looks something like this:



Basically - Get that gun close and point it at metal.
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  #11  
Old September 20th, 2017, 09:30 PM
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Make sure the sender is right, you could be the victim of a previous 'upgrade'
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