Gas Tank Skid plate install on a D90 - question... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old May 5th, 2006, 08:05 AM
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Paul Dandini
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Gas Tank Skid plate install on a D90 - question...

I plan to install a SlickRock Defender 90 Stainless Steel Gas Tank Skid plate and wanted to know what size bolts will need to be replaced -

I'd like to have these on hand prior to the removal of the old plate...

Any tips on this install would be great.
Thanks in advance.
Paul
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  #2  
Old May 5th, 2006, 08:34 AM
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Jim Cheney
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I think there are 8 M10x25's, 4 M12x30's. I though my skid came with bolts. Maybe someone can confim the exact size and quantities.
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  #3  
Old May 5th, 2006, 01:14 PM
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George Kase
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Caution with replacement

Don't know if it is true of the 97 D90 but on the 94 the skid plate is also the support for the gas tank...be careful and support everything adequately...
George
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  #4  
Old May 5th, 2006, 01:44 PM
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Mike Lynch
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I used a 2X4 to wedge/hold the gas tank up during installation. I place the 2X4 on top the the rear axle and it held the tank well.
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  #5  
Old May 5th, 2006, 03:42 PM
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Barry O'Mahony
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Yes its also true with the '97's. You can loosen the bolts a bit; enough to slip some strapping between the plate and the tank, and attach the straps to the framing to support the tank. 'lots easier to manage if the tank is near-empty.
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Old September 3rd, 2011, 01:58 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I'm replacing my tank skid plate this weekend. Is the tank attached at all or does it just sit on the skid plate? My tank is half empty but I plan to siphon out two jerry cans worth if necessary. Any other tips or tricks to consider (other than what has been mentioned above)?
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  #7  
Old September 3rd, 2011, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
I'm replacing my tank skid plate this weekend. Is the tank attached at all or does it just sit on the skid plate?
It's supported entirely by the plate, which I learned the hard way. Don't do that!

-- Paul
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  #8  
Old September 3rd, 2011, 02:23 PM
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Chris Snyder
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Prepare to break bolts.
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  #9  
Old September 3rd, 2011, 02:36 PM
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Thumbs up

Use plenty of Liquid Wrench...let'em soak for as long as you can...
Use anti-seize when assembling...

Good luck...
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  #10  
Old September 3rd, 2011, 07:39 PM
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Pb blaster i reused the old bolts. Lot of pbcx blaster.
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  #11  
Old September 3rd, 2011, 07:52 PM
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I broke 3 of the 4 primary bolts. Ended grinding off the welded nuts and replacing with stainless. Pain in the ass. Im glad I did it though, the new plate makes a big upgrade.
X2 on the PB blaster. you might soak it 3 or 4 times prior to starting. Good luck.
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  #12  
Old September 3rd, 2011, 08:44 PM
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Same with me I broke a lot of bolts... The ones that I could not get at I drilled them out and retapped. IF your nas Fuel tank mounts are rotted out at the corners stephen at safari heritage parts fabbed some up for me and (and others) but i think i got that ball roling - anyway they are excellent / heavy duty and better quality than the originals. I swear the nas parts in the rear of the chassis I.e skid plate, fuel tank mounts, etc were not high grade stuff. I have not welded them on yet but was thinking of galvanizing them except for the leading edge to keep them good for the weld..I don't know if it is possible to galvy everything but part of it.
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  #13  
Old September 4th, 2011, 02:25 PM
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Thanks for all the tips! Bolts are soaked. New plate comes with hardware so I will replace everything. Hopefully I don't have to drill them out. I plan to empty the tank and strap it up before removal of the old plate. Might need a jack to hold the new plate as it is much thicker and heavier.
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  #14  
Old September 4th, 2011, 09:08 PM
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Bolts are out and one snapped. I drilled it out, starting with a small bit and working my way up until there was a thin layer left inside the threads. I'm pretty sure haven't touched the threads yet. How I do I get the rest out? If I need to re-tap, what's the process? Can I re-tap to the same size as existing?
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  #15  
Old September 5th, 2011, 07:46 AM
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Do you have an EZ Out or similar extractor? Basically it's a reverse threaded tap of sorts that will grab the chunk that is left and remove. If not, you can also try a pair needle nose pliers if you have some to grab on to or a screw driver and a hammer with some delicate tapping.

As long as you didn't oversize the hole you should be fine to re-tap with the same size/thread. I would recommend running the tap into all of the holes just to clean them out.
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  #16  
Old September 5th, 2011, 11:07 AM
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Carl Jonsson
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No go. I tried to use a small screwdriver and get an edge out enough so that I could pull with pliers. Didn't work. If I go any further I will ruin the threads. I will soak it with liquid wrench and go shopping for an extractor.
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  #17  
Old December 19th, 2011, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC View Post
I think there are 8 M10x25's, 4 M12x30's. I though my skid came with bolts. Maybe someone can confim the exact size and quantities.
Can anyone confirm the bolts required to fasten the skid plate?
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  #18  
Old December 19th, 2011, 04:04 PM
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I don't remember if there are 6 or 8 ( I'm pretty sure its 6) and they're all the same size IIRC. 4 (1 for each corner for the fuel cradle itself) and then 2 go into the Rear cross member.

Give george a call at RDS, he'll laugh at you for a second and then tell you what they are. He also has them in stock if you didn't mind waiting.

You need to get an extractor (don't get a sears or hard ware store one- they are too wimpy and break and then you're SOL b/c goodluck finding a bit that will drill into the hardened steel of the extractor), get one that you turn by hand, and also get the corresponding Tap (which you need to run through all the holes that gave you any resistance at all b/c they're prob all rusted.)
I bet you broke off one of the two in the rear cross member huh? When I bought my truck, one of them was already sheared off and then I sheared the other off trying to change out all the bolts.
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