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  #1  
Old April 30th, 2009, 10:32 PM
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Galvinizing cost

Would anyone know a roundabout price to get body cappings galinized or other trim parts. Thanks
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  #2  
Old April 30th, 2009, 10:44 PM
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It was $241 for two bulkheads, four t-pieces, a tire carrier, light bar, two tailgate boards, a set of cappings and some other parts so just cappings would be whatever the minimum cost would be.

However, in order to get them galvanized they need to be paint and rust free. I recommend DIY (blasting cost JimC and I like $1700!).

Ron
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Old April 30th, 2009, 10:49 PM
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they would be new cappings and is there a good place other than RN to find them cheap.
thanks
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Old April 30th, 2009, 10:51 PM
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Yeah, we got gouged on sandblasting, but galvanizing is cheap. I think the minimum charge is around 175 dollars, so it really is in your interest to have a fair bit of stuff done. I think I'll probably do some more this summer if you want to keep it in the back of your mind.

Follow-up Post:

New is almost worse than used, since rust comes off easier than e-coat. You can't just send coated parts to the galvanizer.

Nevertheless, we got a whole pickup load worth of parts done for less than 250.
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  #5  
Old April 30th, 2009, 11:02 PM
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well i would consider it if when the rust came off there werent multiple holes in the cappings.
thanks
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  #6  
Old April 30th, 2009, 11:02 PM
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Keep me in mind when the next galvanizing batch goes out. I have a ton more stuff I want to get done. I am now like a mad man with my wire wheel and one of the club members has a blaster I can use if I buy sand. I am going to try aircraft stripper on the e-coat and see how it comes out. Also, has anyone tried to do a set of hinges? Did they survive?
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Old May 1st, 2009, 07:44 PM
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I spent two minutes trying to get the pin out of the hinges and gave up, but the truck came from NY.

I just dropped off a batch at the galvanizer yesterday- two frames, a bulkhead, and every single other piece of steel that we were worried about rusting. Thats bonnet frame, door frames, tub supports, cappings, any lower roll bar parts (gonna be a beach truck), all that fun stuff plus two crates weighing about 100lbs each of small parts.
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Old May 1st, 2009, 08:19 PM
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Ok, tell me what you used to cut the glue and get the frame to release from the inside of the hood...

Please.
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  #9  
Old May 2nd, 2009, 08:40 AM
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Sorry to hijack, but did you galvanize the rear inner cage parts Ron? I pulled mine and they were starting to rust, especially the spacers. I'm just going to paint mine for now.

Anyone know who sells cold galvanizing spray/brush on? I want to touch up that bar that holds the bottom rear door seal up.

charles
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 09:06 AM
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Cold galvanzing spray is sold by rustoleum. I got mine at lowes. JimC galvanized his lower frame parts, I did not.
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Cold galvanzing spray is sold by rustoleum. I got mine at lowes. JimC galvanized his lower frame parts, I did not.
Rut Roh. I'd at least make sure they are not rusting, or better yet paint just in case.
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Old May 2nd, 2009, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin
Rut Roh. I'd at least make sure they are not rusting, or better yet paint just in case.
Chiquita's are pristine. I am going to spray with waxyoil.

Ron
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Old May 3rd, 2009, 03:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimC
Ok, tell me what you used to cut the glue and get the frame to release from the inside of the hood...

Please.
Well the original hood skin had been dented and half-ass repaired from underneath, so it broke free from the skin rather easily once all the rivets were drilled out. Also got a straight hood to replace it with from Dale (rovertrader) and I honestly do not remember it being any harder at all to remove the frame from the skin on that one either. Just drill rivets and carefully manipulate the skin a little to let go of the frame. The rear door however was a royal bitch of an ordeal.

Before too much longer I will start a buildup thread on the truck, maybe once I get the galvy batch back.
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  #14  
Old May 6th, 2009, 06:12 PM
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Got the call today, my batch is ready to be picked up. $370.

Now if you factor in the transportation, the sandblasting, my time for stripping small parts, etc well thats a whole different ballgame- probably 10 times what it cost to actually dip.
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Old May 6th, 2009, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Cold galvanzing spray is sold by rustoleum. I got mine at lowes.
Couldn't find it here in the land of the white collar Lowes and Home Depots. I gotta move!

Quote:
Originally Posted by crown14
Got the call today, my batch is ready to be picked up. $370.

Now if you factor in the transportation, the sandblasting, my time for stripping small parts, etc well thats a whole different ballgame- probably 10 times what it cost to actually dip.
Tell me about it. I sand blasted a couple tire carriers and associated brackets and got one powder coated. Stripping that plastic coat off the light bar took as long as everything else, and all said and done I have a ton of time and effort invested in it. Powdercoating alone was pretty cheap though ($125 for one full tire carrier setup and light bar).
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  #16  
Old May 13th, 2009, 06:58 PM
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  #17  
Old May 13th, 2009, 07:31 PM
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In the second picture when looking at all the parts you had galv'ed looks like one of the plastic model kits held within the frame.
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Old May 13th, 2009, 07:55 PM
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You win.
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Old May 13th, 2009, 09:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airbornrover
In the second picture when looking at all the parts you had galv'ed looks like one of the plastic model kits held within the frame.
WOW now that you mention it, it reminds me, that is EXACTLY how I got started in this whole mess years and years ago.


Quote:
You win.
I forgot to get a pic of my galvy laptop mount. Since the iPhone it has sat in the corner anyhow so I figured it should at least look pretty.
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Old May 13th, 2009, 09:43 PM
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