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  #21  
Old December 1st, 2007, 06:56 AM
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Honestly never galvanized so much shit in all my life. EVERYTHING steel except drivetrain and suspension got dipped.....roll cage.....bonnet frame .... door frames....all brackets.....bumpers......
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

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  #22  
Old December 1st, 2007, 09:40 AM
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roll cage? I wonder what the cage would look like without the padding on it and galvanized?
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  #23  
Old December 1st, 2007, 04:31 PM
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sort of like that.

I will be putting the pads back on after the interior goes in.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #24  
Old December 2nd, 2007, 09:26 PM
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Dave, if I didn't like my wife so much I'd loan you a bay here. Ain't gonna fly though...

Tony, I'd love to help you - need to see what I'd be getting into if I ever went the rebuild route on Janey. So you doing some sort of resto on your D90? You doing this right now?

Matt, that looks awesome!

charles
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  #25  
Old December 3rd, 2007, 08:13 AM
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more just opportunistically having a few things done. Has anyone had the cage on a ST galvanized?
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  #26  
Old December 3rd, 2007, 01:57 PM
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No. Nobody has ever done that. Ever.



PS, when should I bring those rims over? there are others interested as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks
more just opportunistically having a few things done. Has anyone had the cage on a ST galvanized?
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  #27  
Old December 3rd, 2007, 03:43 PM
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[QUOTE=Ren Ching]No. Nobody has ever done that. Ever.
QUOTE]

If the cynicism I think I caught was acutally there: Can you provide any details on the results of stripping the padding off and having the cage galvanized and the resultant affect on soft and hard tops fitting?

If there was no cynicism: yah, I didn't think so as I can't remeber seeing this done before. However, I'd love a solution to all of the padding falling off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ren Ching
PS, when should I bring those rims over? there are others interested as well.
I'm not touching my truck until the end of the month, I'll let you know as this gets organized. Rims will most likely start driving the cost up a bit, the "minimum charge" was more in reference to small pieces such as cappings.
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  #28  
Old December 3rd, 2007, 04:48 PM
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sorry tony, no, just trying to be funny. guess it didn't work.



I have no idea about stripping that stuff off. I'm sure it would be much of a problem. But...OTOH, why. Do they have rust problems under the padding? I could understand wanting to do it, but if it is too much of a PITA to replace, then you could always just do the stuff underneath and otherwise exposed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks
I'm not touching my truck until the end of the month, I'll let you know as this gets organized. Rims will most likely start driving the cost up a bit, the "minimum charge" was more in reference to small pieces such as cappings.
So, I will give you a ring and see what the scoop is, I thought we had up to 600lbs. in any event there always lots of folks who want to galvanise stuff and if you are going to spend the $$$ you should get as much stuff in as feasible. Then we can split the cost.

Also have a person willing to transport the items...(have trailer will travel)

rgrds
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  #29  
Old December 3rd, 2007, 06:07 PM
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No worries! Yup, I've got rust seeping out from under the padding. Ideally I'd like for those of us that want to be in to start thinking about a complete list of things we want to have done. The one company is closed for the last 2 weeks of the month to install a new kettle. My thought has been to pull parts over the holidays and take them in the first or second week of January (but that's just because that works well with my calendar.

Dave, you've pulled bulkheads -- how long does it generally take?
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  #30  
Old December 3rd, 2007, 11:14 PM
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Ok, keep me informed and I'll come help. When the hell is the next happy hour BTW?

charles
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  #31  
Old December 3rd, 2007, 11:23 PM
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cool.

I can drop stuff off @ your place before i leave for the holidays.

As for pulling firewall...? I haven't done one on a 90. Guess it is pretty much the same as on a series and I have done a number of those. My guess would be two people with ok skills using the better part of an afternoon to do it neatly and document wherethehell everything goes etc. That is to strip everything off it, label connections and sort the hardware, not just take it off the truck. Maybe longer? Dunno, guess we will find out!

I think given my schedule I will not be able to prep a bunch of stuff, but I will help others to that end as much as time alllows and I'd like to do this set of rims. I will do another run some time next year to do all my doors, frame, firewall, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks
No worries! Yup, I've got rust seeping out from under the padding. Ideally I'd like for those of us that want to be in to start thinking about a complete list of things we want to have done. The one company is closed for the last 2 weeks of the month to install a new kettle. My thought has been to pull parts over the holidays and take them in the first or second week of January (but that's just because that works well with my calendar.

Dave, you've pulled bulkheads -- how long does it generally take?
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  #32  
Old December 4th, 2007, 06:08 AM
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Tips on the dips:

To get the best results on a bulkhead you will need to have it chemical stripped to get the paint out of the inside cavities.

Also a pretty stout perimeter frame should be constructed both to protect the bulkhead from damage on the rack and to hold key areas (frame mounts, windsheild mounts etc) in place to prevent warping. You will still get some little distortion in the sheetmetal but......it wont rust. Incorparate hanging / lifting points in this frame to help avoid forklift damage and to have the bulkhead hung upright so as to drain correctly. Otherwise shure as shit they will hang it from one end and it will look like crap, or some ginzel will poke a fork into it.

Do discuss the relative frailty of the parts with your galvanizer and be prepared to pay an extra handling fee....even offer it as security. Most shops are geared toward lamp posts and guard rails and are not interested in carefull handling unless properly motivated.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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  #33  
Old December 4th, 2007, 09:47 AM
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Thanks Matt!...you da man...

Tony here's a place that might be able to do the stripping:

http://local.yahoo.com/details?id=12461114

l8r
dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11
Tips on the dips:

To get the best results on a bulkhead ...
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  #34  
Old December 9th, 2007, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks
Shall do -- I'm considering stripping the cappings the week after Christmas and taking them in soon after. I was pretty sure that the seatbox is mixed metals which would mean no galvanizing. Can anyone confirm this? (I'm too lazy to go find a magnet and walk out to the driveway)

When would you be ready with parts, Doug? Trae, you interested in getting in on this?

Tony
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The cappings take quite a bit of getting off - they're pop riveted & glued.

I had to use a propane torch to softed the glue and still needse a crow bar to lever the things off.
The seatbox is an alli thing and doesn't need galvanising.
The battery box could be removed as it's the only steel bit - just needs the pop rivets drilling out - I did this on my 110 to weld some repairs in but it never entered my head to have it galvanised. Darn, it's about the only steel part that isn't on my rebuild

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyddog11
Tips on the dips:

Also a pretty stout perimeter frame should be constructed both to protect the bulkhead from damage on the rack and to hold key areas (frame mounts, windsheild mounts etc) in place to prevent warping. You will still get some little distortion in the sheetmetal but......it wont rust. Incorparate hanging / lifting points in this frame to help avoid forklift damage and to have the bulkhead hung upright so as to drain correctly. Otherwise shure as shit they will hang it from one end and it will look like crap, or some ginzel will poke a fork into it.
I didn't have a frame round my bulkhead when it was stripped and dipped and .....yes it distorted slightly - the door posts closed in about 10mm and it was a pain in the ass to mount onto the chassis. I ended up bolting up one side then using a wedge to force the other side out so the holes lined up There was slight rippling in the flat panels nothing that shows once it's all built up.
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  #35  
Old December 9th, 2007, 11:47 AM
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Galvanized battery boxes would be the bomb.

JP
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  #36  
Old December 11th, 2007, 07:23 AM
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Oddly the battery boxes (I guess I refered to this as the seat box earlier) are the part that I have had the most problem with distortion in....not sure why but they come out all wonky, but usable.
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new expansion complete. Not only are we the only Rover shop in Eliot Maine...now we're also the biggest.

"Dedicated to the resurrection of junk through engineering?"
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